Holley 4160 float settings

You will lose more than power, if you put a blank one in up the jet sizes by at least 10 sizes. However the best bet is to use a 6.5 valve. 2.5 is for racing or none at all, engines at wide open top only produce 2,3 vacuum.

you'll lose a little power because the power valve won't kick in as soon.

that's what they have in stock and the old kits where that way as well. The kit I got from REX Marine had the 6.5 power valve in it.

maybe this can help

So... yes.. the ring is shot... found the part number at summit... but my question... with this 4160... I thought it only had one power valve. Looking at the exploded view at Holley, the Secondary bowl has a valve.... should I be replacing this also?>??? I just replaced the primary.... there is where I had backfire, I presume because i was out of the hole backfire... but my top end was fine.
I'm thinking ineed to pull the secondary bowl off to clean it out in case this left overr rubber gasket is in it...
thoughts?? comments? fun with carbs??

Also.. I got a new powervalve from SkiDim and it was the 2.5.... I keep seeing 6.5... what should it be?
1992 PCM 351 ProTec
thanks!

abolton, there was a heat riser tube on your carb? What's that about? I had one of those on a '62 Oldsmobile. (That was a great car.)

You should be able to check the level through the sight hole while it is running. If you rock the boat and a little runs out, that's a good level.

So after I get it started, run it for a minute or to get gas in the bowl, stop the engine, look through the hole to see the gas is level with the site hole correct?

Thanks!

boat must be level also I take it... (on the trailer right now

How can you tell if the float is correctly inline? I changed out my power valve teh other weekend and have not had a change to test it yet, but I think I recall, I unscrewed the adjustment bowl slightly and may have not put it back exactly where it was. Is there a way to adjust this with the boat running?

My carb guy found the carb vac leak, he left a unplugged heat riser tube connection at the choke spring, I pick it up and back on Sat morn. I hope it works this time.

OK 79sn you are right I found that the PVC valve connection was the problem and now idle is working. Thank God I didn't mess with the internal float adj. I got out on the water and still have the same hesitation problem I had B4 I had the carb rebuilt. I will check the timing and make sure thats right, and go from there.

why are you still messing around trying to adjust the float for a high idle problem the float has no effect on the idle or rpm. Do you enjoy chasing your tail or what, disconnect the f'n throtle cable and 20 bucks says the high idle goes away because the cable isn't adjusted correctly.

Loosen the jam nut, turn screw clockwise to lower the float, counter-clockwise to raise the float.

My carb is also the non-adjustable type. When I rebuilt it I set the floats as listed above and it's been working great for 2 seasons.

Turn the bowls upside down and bend the metal tab until the top of the float sits parallel with the top of the bowl (top now being on the bottom since it's upside down)

I am not a carburetor expert. But, generally speaking the baseline setting is floats level with the bowl. However, given the angle of the engine in the boat, you may need to set the front (primary) float for more fuel the secondary (rear) for less fuel.