68/69 Mustang Resto

Looks like you got a great place to work in Mike. Go here on page 9. You have to go to the back side of it and remove the cables and levers and then the rear plate that the cables mount to.Keep track of how and what direction and what cables mount to where.

Gary,
Thanks for the link, Ill try and get it removed tonight

8122,
Ya, that thing works great except for leaking like crazy. I told myself I wouldent use it again until I sealed all the seams. I also want to add a mobile base to it so I can roll it outside to keep what does leak out of the garage.


Mike

Gary S wrote: Here you go Pete, J on this list. It's 4.95 in my new catalog

Gary,
Thanks for the idea but I'm not taking that damn thing apart again!! I say again because I wasn't paying attention and ended up with the top mounted so the window was on the high side. There are HUNDREDS of screws, nuts, and washers and to get the top off, the ends and legs had to be completely removed. I was not happy!! I'm going with the truck bed liner!

Only down side would the darkness of the interior.Do they make lite colored liner colors? My cabinet is lite gray inside which lets the light "bounce" around,it never seems you have too much. Peter that would be overkill and hard to do now and you would still have the screws to contend with,it would be hard to weld them all up

Peter,
When was the last time you welded 16 ga. powder coated steel?? Can you say warp-age?

Mike,
We have seen some lifting ring mounts in pretty bad shape especially the aft. Take a close look at them. But, with the engine out, the hull really isn't that heavy.

I have built an engine cradle, pulled the motor, cut out the floor, dug out the foam, built a boat cradle, lifted the boat off the trailer, made a template of the stringers, and removed the stringers. Below are some pics of my progress.

Looks like a good setup for removing the boat from the trailer.
I have one question though...
Looks like you lifted the boat and removed the trailer in the large
area of the drive but the boat is sitting on the cradle in what looks
to be the smaller driveway ??? I do not see wheels under the cradle.
Did you pick it up and slide it over there and that is the reason for
the strength picture

looking very good

mountaineerminer wrote: There are casters on the cradle. If you look close in the second to last pic you will see them in the corners. I mounted them as low as to have a low center of gravity and be more stable. Its rock solid.

Outstanding idea. You are thinking ahead.....

Thanks Critter

ww,

Yes, i actually had a phone conversation with a freind back in WV about that tonight. I felt that using a rabbet I would gain not only mechanical strength of the bolts and glue, but off the wood itself. The end result was very solid.

It did take some time and would not have been possible without a good cross-cut sled on the table saw with a dado blade.

Time for an update....

I left one pic off from this weekend, cutting the stringers out! This was much easier than the last boat I worked on, it took about an hour with an angle grinder and a sawzall. After doing this job once you learn a lot of tricks.



I forgot to take more pictures, but I have spent about an 2 hours this week grinding down the hull – this is the miserable part of the job. I plan to finish grinding this weekend. The short days are killing my productivity but daylight savings time should help for a little!

A lot of guys like to leave the stringer in one piece so a template can be made from it. In this case the center was completely rotted away. This is why I made a good template on cad and plotted it full size. Here you can see the wrinkled one I threw away after making some adjustments too it. I’ll plot out a new set tomorrow. The outer stringers where in good enough shape to use as a template; although a little water-logged.



I will be making the stringers out of ¾” AC plywood. The outers will be a single width piece and the inners will be two laminated to get to the 1 ½” size used from the factory. To get the required length I have decided to lap the plywood 6” and join the two halves with thickened epoxy. I used fast set epoxy mixed with colloidal silica.

Thanks John!

Ive lived in Bristol for about a year now and that was the first time I went to a Bristol race; now I know why everyone loves that track!

On the wheel I can be pretty creative! But more so I am interested in your console; especially since I found controls with knobs and cables!

Hey Mike if your console has the factory knobs can you measure them for me? Thanks

TRBenj wrote: mountaineerminer wrote: I will be making the stringers out of ¾” AC plywood. The outers will be a single width piece and the inners will be two laminated to get to the 1 ½” size used from the factory. To get the required length I have decided to lap the plywood 6” and join the two halves with thickened epoxy. I used fast set epoxy mixed with colloidal silica. Yikes, better keep reading up on proper stringer jobs before buying any material!

I agree that you should be doing more reading. If you follow through with using the ply, you had better figure on doubling up the glass layup to compensate for the weak ply. Remember, every other layer of veneer in ply is in the vertical. This is not what you want. LVL would have been a better choice since with all of it's veneers, the grain runs the length. Plus, no weak point at the splice.