Transmission Switch

Scott.
The best way to check it out is with a volt/Ohm, meter to make sure the NSS is actually closing when you have the helm in the neutral position. Ohm it out and check your cable adjustments. I'd say they are off and you may need new ones!

Scott,
I'd sure test the switch before you go spending the money even though it's only $22. The NSS really doesnt see much of a amp load so the contact life is real high. They are pretty reliable.

Yes, it's got to have the blue paint on it!!

BuffaloBFN wrote: srbranum wrote: I usually end up jiggling the throttel, moving the battery terminals, tapping on the swith opposite the linkage, etc. until it starts. I got a chuckle on that one. The battery terminals shouldn't move. Also check the barrel fittings on your throttle; particularly at the morse. You may have a worn one causing your fits.

Your right. The battery terminals should not be loose but they are.

Do I have to remove the shifter off it's mounting position to check the barrel fittings? Again, I know nothing about the shifter. Any advice would be appreciated.

Scott

Greetings everyone. I have been out of touch for a while but plan on getting back to the website thanks to Keith for helping me with my new password because I forgot my old one.

I resurected this problem post because I never did anything about it until recently and thought ya'll might like to see what I found out. Do ya'll remember the guy who helped me buff my boat after my stringer rebuild(see my project)two years ago and is an authority(after Pete of course)? Well, I asked him to help me with this problem three weeks ago because I could not take another summer(My 23rd with this boat!!) wondering if I was going to get stuck out on the water. Here is what we did in my garage.

Bumped the switch to turn the motor over a bunch of times. Everything was ok. Left the key in the "run" position, motor off, and started checking voltage, connections, NSS, ect. At one point, he told me to turn the key off. I did so using my left hand from the passenger seat which is a different angle than using my left hand from the drivers seat like I do in the summer. The side of my hand accidently touched the black fuse holder directly above the ignition switch and BOY was it hot!!! That brought out the red flags. I don't think I would have ever had a reason to touch it in the summer but I accidently did this time.

Come to find out that the wire connector on the back of the fuse link was only half attched to the post and loose. My friend said that if the entire male and female connector is not fully connected, the load is too much for the small area it was connected to and got hot. This would explain why each summer, when it would not start, it was hot but eventually started after the fuse cooled down. Of course it always started after launching it or each morning because everything was cool to the touch. We left the key on for a good long time after this and it stayed nice and cool and the engine bumped over each time we tried it.

RULE OF THUMB: ALWAYS MAKE SURE YOUR ELECTRICAL CONNECTIONS ARE FULLY CONNECTED AND NICE AND TIGHT!!!

Scott,
Welcome back and it's great you found the problem. Those .250" quick connect "sta-cons" can be a problem. Besides the inexpensive ones corroding, I've found them so brittle that the female side actually breaks. Once they heat up, the crimp at the wire can fail too. Your best bet is to replace them with some high quality ones. New tinned marine grade wire wouln't hurt ether.

98%......

no, rule of thumb, 98% of all electrical problems are bad connections

you got that right