Replacing cutless bearing

Ok, finally getting around to it.

Leave the boat short on the trailer so you can drop the rudder (support the rudder so it doesn't hit the concrete when you unbolt it on top).

Remove the prop, and propshaft. Check your alignment when you disconnect the coupling. Mine was better than 0.0005 (yahoo!).

unscrew the lockscrews on the side of the strut



Sawing the old cutless shell. Be patient, take your time, take breaks (repack your log and rudder) don't use your sawsall!



fold the edges in with a screwdriver and light taps.





Pull out with pliers

crobi2 wrote: The strut on this boat is almost 7" long. The factory put in two 3" cutless bearings one on each end with a gap in the middle of the strut. I have a 4 1/2" and two 2 1/4" bearings. Now I know that I can just use the 4 1/2" bearing on the prop end of the strut, but since I have them, I think I want to use the 4 1/2" bearing on the prop end of the strut and a 2 1/4" bearing on the coupler end of the strut. What do you think?

You don't need to go "overboard" with the cutlass length. In fact, too much will just add to prop shaft drag. I feel your plan on using the 4&1/2 on the prop end and the 2&1/4" forward is a good one.

Why no Sawsall?

Thanks for the quick replies. I got the courage to do this job from reading all of the great "how to" posts on the site. I figured I would do my duty and post this to maybe help someone else do theirs.

So Pete, do you think it is ok to use both the 4 1/2" and 2 1/4" bearings together? The factory put in two 3" bearings. A 1 1/8" propshaft requires a 4 1/2" bearing. If I use both like I want to, that would be 6 3/4" of bearing, 3/4" more than the factory put in. Do you think that would still be OK?


Pete, I also took your advice and got an A.R.E. double taper shaft and I will post pics on the install. Do you know how much torque to put on the shaft retaining nut? And how much torque on the coupling retaining bolts?

Rob,
You'll be fine with just an extra 3/4" of cutlass. I guess I just don't want for people to start filling the complete strut with a rubber bushing!

Strut bearing going in.




Back of the Walters.




Log in servicable shape.






New A.R.E. coupling (left) and old coupling (right)





Prop end of shafts.



double taper vs single taper.




Old shaft and new shaft (proof I didn't wrap it around a tree stump or something)




Alignment at 0.0005












Ready to test!

Looks like you've been on Texoma, by the looks of the hull.

Thanks for all of the replies. Chris I hear you! I couldn't do it consistently either (.002 feeler gauge in, .0025 feeler gauge probing) until I had lightly coated all of the parts in grease for final assembly. I think the grease held the halves together so I didn't "pry them apart" trying to get the feeler gauge in. I agree it's tough to do and everyone should watch Pete's CorrectCraftFan alignment video (I have watched it many times).




http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3_w0LvD6gEc

That glaze looks similar to what we battle up here in Iowa. Lots of silt in our lake so we keep a brush on the dock and scrub the entire hull now and then.

Again, great post!

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3_w0LvD6gEc



Another attempt at linking Pete's CCFan alignment video.

Someone please help me if this doesn't work!

It's just going to be a spare prop rack. I forgot that you have a v-drive with a 1-1/8" shaft, so it wouldnt work for me anyways! Im not sure if being .00025 out is still serviceable or not, but it certainly might be. No worries either way!

FYI, CCF doesnt do "auto" linking. You need to use the globe button to create a hyperlink in your post. Make sure you delete all extra spaces before and after the URL.

It may be one a member here traded in for a 2010 and then it on a 2011(230)

Where's Brian with the macro mode suggestion? Look for the flower icon on your camera, it will focus on the upclose object and take much better pictures than the ones you posted above.

Hollywood - Flower icon huh? I am such a newb.