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Grand Poobah
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    Posted: February-25-2012 at 1:51pm
That is a Prestolite EI. I have same dizzy & I am not running the ballast resister (have both wires to same side of resister, same as shown in the picture). This was advised by good 'ol '79 Nautique.

Supposedly, the electronic circuit inherently limits the current, therefore the resister is not needed.

Here is a reference from a 'net search, cool that it brought me back to ccf.

I haven't had any problems with my setup, but that thread ends with Tim announcing the death of his presolite!



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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote notx2001 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: February-24-2012 at 1:04pm
This is what i see under the dist.cap. No branding that i can see.. standard? El?
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Bri892001 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: February-22-2012 at 5:12pm
Originally posted by boat dr boat dr wrote:


...Mallory uses a 3 wire and it is wired just as a points system, New replacement modules for the Prestolite need a ballast also.


Good information there. Thank you.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote phatsat67 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: February-22-2012 at 4:45pm
Doc. I know you'll smoke points in no time with a full 12 volts. I switched to an accell super coil at one point because when it was warm at wot rpm it would break up after about a minute but it turned out to be a fuel issue. That coil has been on it with those points and that resistor I replaced for near 550 hours of operation with no problems.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote boat dr Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: February-22-2012 at 4:29pm
Originally posted by Bri892001 Bri892001 wrote:

Hmmmm, there is such a thing as two wire distributor. Mine is similar to this one, which doesn't mention a ballast resistor on hookup:
http://www.skidim.com/prodinfo.asp?number=RA107038

Also, this diagram show the resister being bridged in certain applications, which is the same thing as putting both wires on one post:


The wiring diagram is only good for the Petronix or the Prestolite dizzy and OEM module.Neither have a a trouble free reputation. Mallory uses a 3 wire and it is wired just as a points system, New replacement modules for the Prestolite need a ballast also.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote boat dr Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: February-22-2012 at 4:24pm
Originally posted by phatsat67 phatsat67 wrote:

My resistor was fried when I got the boat and someone had already installed the ignitor 2 electronic trigger instead of points. They just had the two wires bridged to one post of the resistor to run the electronic trigger. I eneded up finding an NOS distributor for 87 and up with the plastic internals and It runs like a top with points. I will not be converting to electronic any time soon.


The ballast must be used with the points , they cannot handle the full 12 volts.This is the purpose of the second wire on your starter solenoid, it supplies full voltage to the coil/points/ballast during crank only, and low voltage in run...What type coil are you using with this set up?...Billy
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 8122pbrainard Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: February-22-2012 at 3:43pm
Pull the distributor cap and take a look inside for an EI module. Brand would help too.


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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote notx2001 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: February-22-2012 at 3:02pm
Do i have what looks to be a standard ignition setup?


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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Bri892001 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: February-22-2012 at 2:21pm
Hmmmm, there is such a thing as two wire distributor. Mine is similar to this one, which doesn't mention a ballast resistor on hookup:
http://www.skidim.com/prodinfo.asp?number=RA107038

Also, this diagram show the resister being bridged in certain applications, which is the same thing as putting both wires on one post:
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote phatsat67 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: February-22-2012 at 2:09pm
My resistor was fried when I got the boat and someone had already installed the ignitor 2 electronic trigger instead of points. They just had the two wires bridged to one post of the resistor to run the electronic trigger. I eneded up finding an NOS distributor for 87 and up with the plastic internals and It runs like a top with points. I will not be converting to electronic any time soon.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote boat dr Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: February-22-2012 at 1:53pm
Originally posted by mdvalant mdvalant wrote:

It amazes me how much these guys see in a dark picture showing 1/10th the boat.


The difference between a hobbiest and a tech is looking at the "complete picture" Stupid does not make it Correct
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote boat dr Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: February-22-2012 at 1:50pm
Brian, your Prestolite module requires the use of the ballast, as do all but the Petronix junk. But do, what you think is right, but I see a module failure in the future.
There is a reason they use the ballast, full voltage at cranking, then to a lower voltage after she cranks. The added voltage ends up as heat, and will shorten the life of the ignition components......
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Bri892001 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: February-22-2012 at 1:04pm
Originally posted by notx2001 notx2001 wrote:


I just checked it. It has two wires connected it to it, but those 2 are on the same terminal (is that correct?). The side that looks empty in the picture is empty.


Actually, to have both wires going to the same side of the ballast resister isn't always wrong.

Some distributors do not use the ballast resister. My boat has an electronic Prestolite distributor and doesn't really use the resister, although, it is still there as a placeholder. It's the junction of a couple different feeds, including the choke, that are running off 12v switched ignition. In a setup like this the ballast resister is just a place holder, probably part of a mass assembled electrical setup.

Someone may have changed your points distributor at some point to electronic and changed the wiring, so the ballast resister is just kind sitting there.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote mdvalant Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: February-22-2012 at 12:57pm
It amazes me how much these guys see in a dark picture showing 1/10th the boat.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote notx2001 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: February-22-2012 at 12:55pm
Originally posted by boat dr boat dr wrote:

Side note on your exhaust hoses, there should be dual clamps on the upper and lower connections. This is a Coast Guard mandate and a good idea too.
Ballast resistor should have two wires connecting it to the ignition wiring, I only see one wire?

Two ring clamps similar to what is on the tubes now is suitable?

I am somewhat of a novice when it comes to american motors, and new to inboard boats...The ballast resistor is the white rectangle with two terminals?

I just checked it. It has two wires connected it to it, but those 2 are on the same terminal (is that correct?). The side that looks empty in the picture is empty.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote boat dr Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: February-22-2012 at 12:30pm
Side note on your exhaust hoses, there should be dual clamps on the upper and lower connections. This is a Coast Guard mandate and a good idea too.
Ballast resistor should have two wires connecting it to the ignition wiring, I only see one wire?
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote MartyMabe Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: February-22-2012 at 11:36am
You probably just hit the lugs on the solenoid
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote notx2001 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: February-22-2012 at 11:16am
Originally posted by 8122pbrainard 8122pbrainard wrote:

Aaron,
Yes, that is the main circuit breaker. At least you now know it works! Take some time to read some of the threads here on CCfan. Great info plus there are several with wiring diagrams posted.

Thanks, i guess I am just curious of it's reset physical motion, because i did not notice a whole lot of play on the breaker, just it being able to spin.

Originally posted by 8122pbrainard 8122pbrainard wrote:

Do check to make sure your alternator is outputting. Sometimes they do not like direct shorts and the rectifier bridge will get knocked out. You can tell by your volt meter after starting the engine. That's when the alternator will be recharging the battery.


Appears to be working fine. I was on the water all sunday (post incident) and it was outputting ~14 volts all the time.


Originally posted by 8122pbrainard 8122pbrainard wrote:

Also, check what it was you shorted out. There should not be any open/bare electrical around the cooler.

ya, ill have to go poke around with the multimeter.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Waterdog Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: February-22-2012 at 9:17am
Aaron,

    Welcome to Correct Craft Fan.
    You have got the main breaker figured out!
    I'm sure the next question will be tougher
- waterdog -

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 8122pbrainard Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: February-22-2012 at 9:08am
Aaron,
Yes, that is the main circuit breaker. At least you now know it works! Take some time to read some of the threads here on CCfan. Great info plus there are several with wiring diagrams posted.

Do check to make sure your alternator is outputting. Sometimes they do not like direct shorts and the rectifier bridge will get knocked out. You can tell by your volt meter after starting the engine. That's when the alternator will be recharging the battery.

Also, check what it was you shorted out. There should not be any open/bare electrical around the cooler.

Welcome to CCfan.


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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote notx2001 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: February-22-2012 at 1:30am
The red button on the plate here in the pic? It has a 50, I was thinking its some sort of resetable fuse/breaker? I was adjusting the oil cooler position and bumped a socket extension somewhere around these wires and made contact with some hot wire. Didnt think much of it and the next day i pulled it out in the driveway to fire it up and got nothing when i turned the key. I thought it was the fuse at ignition and that was ok, then fidgeted around back around this set of wires, pushing and twisting on the red button and then tried cranking and it fired up. took the boat out to the lake on sunday and it gave me no trouble since. Just wondering... thanks!

New CC owner, just picked up an 82' 2001, been lurking around here for a while.

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