what is?

The red button on the plate here in the pic? It has a 50, I was thinking its some sort of resetable fuse/breaker? I was adjusting the oil cooler position and bumped a socket extension somewhere around these wires and made contact with some hot wire. Didnt think much of it and the next day i pulled it out in the driveway to fire it up and got nothing when i turned the key. I thought it was the fuse at ignition and that was ok, then fidgeted around back around this set of wires, pushing and twisting on the red button and then tried cranking and it fired up. took the boat out to the lake on sunday and it gave me no trouble since. Just wondering... thanks!

New CC owner, just picked up an 82' 2001, been lurking around here for a while.

Aaron,

    Welcome to Correct Craft Fan.
    You have got the main breaker figured out!
    I'm sure the next question will be tougher

You probably just hit the lugs on the solenoid

boat dr wrote: Side note on your exhaust hoses, there should be dual clamps on the upper and lower connections. This is a Coast Guard mandate and a good idea too. Ballast resistor should have two wires connecting it to the ignition wiring, I only see one wire?

Two ring clamps similar to what is on the tubes now is suitable?

I am somewhat of a novice when it comes to american motors, and new to inboard boats...The ballast resistor is the white rectangle with two terminals?

I just checked it. It has two wires connected it to it, but those 2 are on the same terminal (is that correct?). The side that looks empty in the picture is empty.

notx2001 wrote: I just checked it. It has two wires connected it to it, but those 2 are on the same terminal (is that correct?). The side that looks empty in the picture is empty.

Actually, to have both wires going to the same side of the ballast resister isn't always wrong.

Some distributors do not use the ballast resister. My boat has an electronic Prestolite distributor and doesn't really use the resister, although, it is still there as a placeholder. It's the junction of a couple different feeds, including the choke, that are running off 12v switched ignition. In a setup like this the ballast resister is just a place holder, probably part of a mass assembled electrical setup.

Someone may have changed your points distributor at some point to electronic and changed the wiring, so the ballast resister is just kind sitting there.

mdvalant wrote: It amazes me how much these guys see in a dark picture showing 1/10th the boat.

The difference between a hobbiest and a tech is looking at the "complete picture" Stupid does not make it Correct

Hmmmm, there is such a thing as two wire distributor. Mine is similar to this one, which doesn't mention a ballast resistor on hookup:
http://www.skidim.com/prodinfo.asp?number=RA107038

Also, this diagram show the resister being bridged in certain applications, which is the same thing as putting both wires on one post:

Pull the distributor cap and take a look inside for an EI module. Brand would help too.

Bri892001 wrote: Hmmmm, there is such a thing as two wire distributor. Mine is similar to this one, which doesn't mention a ballast resistor on hookup: http://www.skidim.com/prodinfo.asp?number=RA107038 Also, this diagram show the resister being bridged in certain applications, which is the same thing as putting both wires on one post:

The wiring diagram is only good for the Petronix or the Prestolite dizzy and OEM module.Neither have a a trouble free reputation. Mallory uses a 3 wire and it is wired just as a points system, New replacement modules for the Prestolite need a ballast also.

boat dr wrote: ...Mallory uses a 3 wire and it is wired just as a points system, New replacement modules for the Prestolite need a ballast also.

Good information there. Thank you.

That is a Prestolite EI. I have same dizzy & I am not running the ballast resister (have both wires to same side of resister, same as shown in the picture). This was advised by good 'ol '79 Nautique.

Supposedly, the electronic circuit inherently limits the current, therefore the resister is not needed.

Here is a reference from a 'net search, cool that it brought me back to ccf.

I haven't had any problems with my setup, but that thread ends with Tim announcing the death of his presolite!



Ballast with Prestolite