Drive shaft install

crobi2 wrote: Eric - I guess with the brass, the set screw makes a local indentation but with the plastic bearing could warp the whole thing a little?

I feel you need to change your thoughts on plastics in general. All are not soft. The XP cutlass bushings are relatively high in Rockwell. You can dent the brass shell of a traditional cutlass with the set screw as well.

I don't feel this is the problem. It sure sounds like the same problem Tim went through - the bore in the strut is not straight. With the rubber, it would be "forgiving" but not with the hard plastic.

SNobsessed wrote: Pete - I wonder what the OEM tolerance was for the bore straightness. Maybe the strut wasn't damaged; it's just a stackup of tolerance. I doubt you have ever seen that in your factory!

Chris,
Considering the other "tolerances" on strut machining, I'd wager to say the bore is no better. As mentioned, the rubber can handle it but when you put two hard bushings at each end of the bore, that's what seems to create problems.

I still feel the easy solution is to get the bushings in the strut and ream.

yes I considered a burr being the issue. My set screws are missing, have been since I got the boat so those arent the issue. I need to get the mic in there after it. But I ran into the same issues with the strut off the boat so it isnt alignment related. I dont want to overream it and then have the bushings be too loose.

I considered wrapping sand paper around the shaft and seeing if that would clean up any burrs. I am getting some beers with the boys on tuesday and tim has the precision equipment so he will probably able to ream it. Ill report back after that. I think I can fix mine but if not Ill just try mikes.

Justin,
I would not go the abrasive paper route since there really isn't any or not much control over it. A reamer you can set and it will only ream to the set dimension. Way back, I commented about a machine shop. Do you have one around you?