Gut Job

This is what I was referring to in another post. What did CC originally use for templates in the factory? are they still around? I can't see them throwing them away? but maybe.

Not yet maybe today putting a friends pontoon in.

Roger - I am ready now but it would be a while before I could transcribe everything and post it on the forums. It might be easier to give you all the numbers you want over the phone. Feel free to call me at five one eight - 857 - nine eight one two

I'll be working on it most of the day.

Thanks to Jeff I have 100% of the measurements for an 84', so that makes be about 95% sure of my numbers for a 87'. We did note some differences in the three year difference.

1. 84' (or at least his had a cooler and battery box, mine doesn't but that doesn't mean that it didn't) so at the tip of his primaries he has an additional notch for a cross member.
2. 84' secondary stringer stays straigt in the rear, where I think mine is suppose to notch down 1" in the rear for 14 inches.
3. 84's tank support is 2 3/4" high by 18 1/8" long. Where I think mine should be 2" high X 15" long.
4. In the 1" gap between the long and shorter secondary the 84' only had one space block to the aft as I have seen 4 blocks in the 87'.

Would any one be able to clarify on this?

One point I'm still shaky on is the thickness of the main stringer. At the rear of the main is it 6" witout the block for the gas tank then add the 2" or in an 84' case 2 3/4". or is 7 1/4" overall then you subtract the 2" or 2 3/4" for the tank support. I could also reverse engineer it if I had what the stringer depth is at the motor mounts. Another question I have is if you layed a pattern of the stringer on a straight line does the top of the stringer at the rear (tank support) line up with the highest point on the front of the stringer or is this a 1/2" down or so.

just went out and measured area in question,total hieght in the tank area is 5 3/8" the added piece is only 1 1/2" tall.probably raises more questions then answers but i knew the pictures were different from my 86'

i think iam following what your saying.why are you starting with a 5 3/8 peice of wood?i fit everything on a 1x8 which is really 7".i wish you were closer i have a perfectly good but still damp drivers side main sitting in my garage that as of a hour ago i dont need

I have determined my picture problem is computer related and have not addressed it.my old stringer just fit on a 1x8,may have lost less then 1/16" of raised section in rear but i think iam good.i live in lake monomonoc in rindge nh about 10 min, from mt.monadnock

You want the fore side of the prop to land @ 1/2"-3/4" from the back of the strut.

The mains are where the one-at-a-time approach can be critical. Leaving one in maintains hull integrity and gives you a solid reference point to build back to.

One note on doing this. I would level the boat side to side before starting so you can use always go back the other side for reference.

As for the hub-to-strut clearance the actual design criteria is the space should be equal to the diameter of the shaft. I have seen it vary quite a bit though.

Morfoot wrote: Wouldn't it be cool if we had in the reference section homemade copies of Blueprints of main and secondary stringers of the different hulls that have been restrung here. I realize that it would be extra effort on the owners part to to lay out every dimension but man it sure would be helpful to those who will need to do a stringer job and whose stringers are nothing but mush and dust.

That would take all the fun out of it!

I just cut the top skins off and used a plunge router to excavate the rotten wood. That left me with allot less grinding and tabbing work. Of course I didn't do a 100% gut. More like 60%
The other thing is I was not the first guy into that grid. The last person to work on it was a little lacking in skill.

Hey guys, I'm looking for some more info. I just finnished cutting out my second secondary stringer, and I'm getting ready to lay them in. My measurements are still a little blurry in some areas. I guess my first question would be, how wide is the cavity between the secondary and main for the exhaust hose. Any number will do, either at the rear of the boat or towards the bow where the channel ends with the piece of wood that goes to the primary. Second, how far from the rear of the boat does the exhaust cavity go(from the rear to the piece of would that cuts the channel off and ties in to the main stringer). If someone could hook a tape on the bolt at the center of the rudder shaft and give me a dimension that would be great. Also what are the dimensions of the rear hatch that the motor cover sits on? Also if someone could hook a tape on the rudder shaft bolt in the center and let me know how far it is to the front edge near the motor of the hatch. Trying to build back to original after it has been hacked by pictures is proving to be a tought task. Any help would be greatly appreciated.

That would be a hard estimate, especially for a quality job. I have been doing mine in the driveway, you don't necessarily have to have a big shop or many special tools. The weather will dictate some of your working times, but it beats paying someone to do it. The tools required are also affordable. I would highly advise you to research other threads and at least entertain the idea of doing it yourself, it is very rewarding.

Ace where are you located?

I'm a few days away from gelcoating and I have one issue I was looking to solve. When rebuilding I left the plywood up front run long over the bilge, I didn't have an original piece to trace the cut out for the engine. I'm looking for some dimensions for the 87' for the cut out on the ply wood. I didn't want to make the cut earlier in case it was too big and the engine cover wouldn't cover it. But I'd like to get it cut so I can dress the edge before I gel. The easiest way I can think of to get these numbers would be to have some one pull their rear hatch and hook a tape to the bolt head at the top of the rudder and then give me some dimensions from that to each side. Would any one be able to help me with this? Otherwise I have to wait for my shaft to come in and then lower the motor enough to get an idea of how much room Is needed for the motor and fuel filter up front. My motor is in a storage unit and I'd have to get it out, in the boat, then out of the boat and the back into the unit until I'm done gelcoating.
Here's some pictures of where I'm at right now.