Trailer Rebuild

Two jacks. Take turns moving the one that is in the way.

Engine jack or hoist works well on the bow eye so you can pull the trailer out once you have the stern supported on the ground. Just make sure the stern is elevated just a little to take the weight of the bunks, then when you lift the bow it will be clear of the trailer. If you position the engine jack right you should be able to get the trailer out enough to block the bow and then remove the jack, so you can finish puling the trailer.

Once you have the trailer out you can then reposition the boat to the correct height and level you wish.

I will be painting my trailer sometime soon.

I plan on launching at my local lake and paying mooring for a week. That way I can work on the trailer with the boat off. And I can be on the lake while waiting for paint to dry!

Weekly mooring rates should be far less than the cost of one boat stand.

I would not buy those stands unless you have a plan for them after you are done. You can block the boat with wood or concrete just like obsessed talked about. You just need to make sure it is supported enough to elevate its movement while you are working on it.

If you will search on the site regarding blocking boats or stringer repairs you should be able to get some pictures of how others have blocked there boats. Here is a picture of one, while I think this is a little over-kill it does look pretty strong.


This is not my picture, I down loaded from this site. Sorry I don't know who posted it, but hopefully they don't mind!!!

You could definitely get away with lower blocks. If you have any scrap laying around or concrete blocks I would use that before going out and buying stuff. This leaves more cash for the rebuild.

By the way, I would live to see pictures of your 76, I am restoring a 77 now and would like to see how your interior is.

Allen

not sure the color yet keeg. ill keep ya posted white lake is approaching fast. Allen thanks for the pic,and the reference. Chris as well. i went and bought some concrete blocks a 2x4 that im shaving down to get the angle right for the stern. and for the front i bought a 4x6x8 that is going to lay across the rafters in my garage. a piece of 3/4 chain. im wrapping the chain around the 4x6 and using a come along on the lifting eye. then i can roll the trailer out and set the boat on a concrete block with a 4x4. i also bought carpet and liquid nails make the boat sit on the carpet instead of wood. while the trailer is underway, i will also be waxing and buffing the boat.

TRBenj wrote: sweet77 wrote: not sure the color yet WHITE!!!! (Keep it Original).

Leopard print...show off your sassy side! Meee-ow!

BTW Tim im going to be picking your brain on the "shining " part of this project there are so many different compounds out the i didnt know where to start.

Halston,
I sure like Al's idea! I've used plenty of Rustoleum through the years and it has never let me down. If you do use it, go with their primer for rusty metal (the brown). There are plenty of spots were it's hard to get down to really clean metal. The alternate is having the trailer blasted. If blasted, the only way to do it properly is to completely break down the trailer into individual pieces.

Another option to consider is the POR-15 that Marty has been using. Ive heard good things about it!

Id skip the red fenders and just keep them white like the rest of the trailer. If you can find LED's whose housings look somewhat close to the originals, that would be the ultimate. The original 70's style lights are NLA, as far as I can tell- so you get a pass there.    I think the red bunk carpet and trailer guides would look good, original or not (personally, Id probably opt for black though).

Ive posted the products and pads Ive used several times- I'll dig up the thread if you cant find it. A bunch of guys have used it with great results!

Hoss,

Since I'm 'jobless' - Get all the materials ready and fly me down one weekend and we'll KNOCK it out

Yeah, unless theres oxidation to remove or color to restore (matching gel from under an old sticker, etc), no wetsanding necessary. Heck, you may not need to compound either. It may just need a good polishing (Finesse-It II).

I think I mispoke on the buffer. I meant Makita, not Milwaukee. The old Dewalt 849 has been replaced with a new style... if youre buying new, Id probably go with the Makita now.

Also, the "Perfect It II" compound that I have used in the past doesnt seem to be available at Smartshoppers anymore. For the intermediate compound, it looks like either the 3M Standard Rubbing Compound (Step A) or the Perfect It Compound (Step 1) would suffice as an intermediate step between the Super Duty and Finesse It II on gelcoat.

Nice!!

Halston,
All right, you got it on blocks Now onto the next step!

Halston,
I just answered your PM.

What happened to the sandblasting?

Hoss- You're not entering it in a contest are you? If you have some 80 grit paper, use it on the flaking rust. Or if you have a cheap wire wheel. Don't go out and buy anything special. Your Rustolem paint- if anything get a can of rust inhibitor, or the smallest can of POR-15, brush it on . Let it dry about 2 hours and shoot some primer on it. Then your paint, if you're not getting rattle cans- Brush it on. You'd be surprised on how smooth you can brush it on. If you haven't got a spray gun- no need to go out and buy one. You'll probably never use it again.
I brushed mine on the #2- and so what if I got a run or two.
Don't forget the Pics to document this resto. Tell Jenn to take them