Siezed GT40

silver, You might do a search...   There have been several people who've freed up their engines, but more just from sitting than rust.   I think most do some penetrating oil (acetone and trans fluid are recommended often) in the spark plug holes, let it sit for a day, add more pentrating oil.   after a few days, you may be able to turn the engine by the crank pulley and a breaker bar.   I would anticipate having to do a complete rebuild, My guess is that the cyls and rings have "become one".     If you are not handy with engines, an new one might be better in the long run...but will definitely set you back a bit on the front end. Check with Jody Seal at FL inboards... he does replacements and may be able to get you a low hour removal.   I believe Kroundy is still looking for an engine too, if you don't want to mess with the old one.

watrski wrote: Aero Kroil Buy a gallon.

8122pbrainard wrote: Here's the list of torque requirments copied from the other thread: Penetrating oil ..... Average load None ...................... 516 pounds WD-40 ................... 238 pounds PB Blaster ............... 214 pounds Liquid Wrench ......... 127 pounds Kano Kroil .............. 106 pounds ATF-Acetone mix.......53 pounds The home brew ATF and reducing it with a solvent is real interesting! I need to mix up a batch and give it a try.

Early fe blocks were 352 cubic inches, then 390 then 427.

65 'cuda wrote: Early fe blocks were 352 cubic inches, then 390 then 427.

BuffaloBFN wrote: That crank bolt has its limits. A crankshaft socket is a cool tool to have; even more so on a RH engine. I filtered(Summit) ford/5.8-351/small blk windsor so double check the part app; and guys...why do they list a 5.8-352?

Hmmm... another tool that I need to own...

I wonder if you have a greater chance of liver damage at a reunion than breathing acetone

KRoundy wrote: BuffaloBFN wrote: That crank bolt has its limits. A crankshaft socket is a cool tool to have; even more so on a RH engine. I filtered(Summit) ford/5.8-351/small blk windsor so double check the part app; and guys...why do they list a 5.8-352? Hmmm... another tool that I need to own...

Maybe you can find one you can borrow? You won't use it very often, but the $20-40 will seem cheap if the nose bolt gives.

Another trick is to remove the balancer pulley and put 3" bolts in the balancer. You can then use a box end wrench over one bolt and lever against the next.

All this shade tree advice is rather amusing.
Their is a reason the motor is locked up. Rings have welded them selves to the cylinder walls. cylinder bores are rusted up and rings have been compromised, all this provided the cause is water intrusion into the cylinder's. If it can be made to turn freely by penetrating fluids breaker bars or whatever what kind of cylinder pressures are going to be expected? What kind of compression is it going to have, how well will the motor run? This list can go on and on. Utilizing a breaker bar could bend a rod or cause other damage in the long run.
Best idea is to pull the motor down address the problems and reassemble. Machining and materials provided the motor is not hurt should run less than $1000.00. But then again get that big breaker bar out and overall costs could run much higher!

Good luck!

Fl Inboards wrote: All this shade tree advice is rather amusing.

Agreed, but I didn't balk at a $40 tool. My line of thinking was based on where he said the water rose to.

If it sat without a doghouse and carb, then ...

Gary S wrote: I wonder if you have a greater chance of liver damage at a reunion than breathing acetone

Good one Gary, I think that statement couldn't be more true.

"Forget about the Apple-Pie Moonshine just load up the shot ski with Acetone"

Thanks for replies. We have had it soaking in PB blaster (similar to Kroil) and a few other things. Still no movement. Do you guys believe that an ATF/acetone mixture could free her up? I haven't decided what direction to go. I heard that a brand new GT40 retails at about $4,900. Considering that option. I really don't have the time to deal with this right now; I'm very preoccupied with my other project (1966 Barracuda). Another idea I had would be to find someone who will go through it, and call me when he has it running right. Would any of you experts on here be interested or know anyone who is trustworthy and knowledgable enough to get it running right? Time isn't a huge factor... we have plenty of other boats to play with for the time being. It would be great to get her back in good running shape, though.
Jake

Jake,
I know you said you checked the oil and it didn't look "milky". However, if water did somehow seep in, oil having a SG lighter than water, the water would be at the bottom of the pan. It takes running the engine with the water to get it to mix and turn the oil milky. Have you drained the oil yet?

The ATF/acetone mix is sure better than that PB junk. Didn't you see the torque specs in my previous post? Buying the PB sure is proof that "Madison Avenue" advertising sure can con many people!

Don't go wild with the breaker bar or whatever to get the engine to turn. Just as Jody mentioned, there are limits that could lead to problems.

FREE!! She broke loose and turns free! Seems like the Coca Cola and PB blaster mixture actually did the trick. Yes, we actually started loosening the nose bolt by accident. A combination of my dad with a crow bar against the flywheel teeth and me cranking on the nose bolt broke it loose. Now to get the starter rebuilt. We drained some of the oil off of the bottom and it wasn't bad. Also, when I pressed the shrader valve on the fuel rail, there was pressure! We emptied all of the bad fuel out of the tank and we're going to flush out the rails when we get a new battery in it. Is there anything else we should do before we install the new starter and start trying to get it running? (assuming it still has enough compression) I'm not familiar with the EFI engines in regards to electronic components. Thanks!
Jake

Your low pressure fuel pump was under water. Don't know if it will still be okay or not since I don't know if it is hermetically sealed. As for the electronics, hopefully the relays, ECC, etc. were above the water line.

When you are ready, when you turn the key to the on position (not start), both fuel pumps (low pressure and the high pressure (the one in the FCC) should turn on for about one second, and then turn off. That will tell you two things: 1. the pumps are getting power, and 2. the ECC is turing the pumps off after one second (which they do if the engine is not running or the starter is not engaged). If you turn the key and you don't hear the pumps turn on and then off, you've got electrical issues or an ECC issue.


What about the transmission? That was under water, so I suspect there is going to be an issue there as well

As Pete said, just keep moving forward and take it one thing at a time. There are a good number of GT40 owners on the forum.

Pete, what is the problem with a deep cycle?(other than the fact that it probably wouldn't fit in the battery compartment... Gordon, yes, a good amount of equipment was submerged. I am fully anticipating needing an engine rebuild, but on the chance that it may run how it is, I'll see what I can do. Yes, we hooked the battery up the other day for the first time. The low pressure pump on the bottom side of the engine near the canister filter thing buzzed to life for several seconds. I didn't hear the other pump, but then again I wasn't listening for it... and maybe it's not audible anyways. It did not exactly sound healthy, but maybe it's okay? I did have pressure at the rails, so that's a good sign I guess. The water level did reach the bottom of the electronic computer on the backside of the engine, but like I said...maybe we'll get lucky and it will be unscathed. As for the transmission, the fill cap had a good seal, the shaft spins freely, and the fluid was bright and red with no visible signs of water intrusion. We won't know until we put it in gear, I guess. Are there any major items that we should check before re-installing the starter and trying to crank? We will check spark and comp. as soon as we get the chance.
Jake