Siezed GT40

Silver15 wrote: , but on the chance that it may run how it is, I'll see what I can do. Yes, we hooked the battery up the other day for the first time. The low pressure pump on the bottom side of the engine near the canister filter thing buzzed to life for several seconds. I didn't hear the other pump, but then again I wasn't listening for it... and maybe it's not audible anyways. It did not exactly sound healthy, but maybe it's okay? I did have pressure at the rails, so that's a good sign I guess. Jake

I'd try to get it to run too.      

On the pumps, both pumps are on the same circuit. When you turn the key to on (not start), the ECC will flip the pump relay and both pumps will run for about a second. If it doesn't sense the engine running (or cranking), it turns the pumps off. Since both pumps are on the same circuit, you can test each one. First, unplug the high pressure pump (inside the FCC) and power the pump circuit. You can jump a pin from the tester port to ground and that will make the pump circuit stay on when the key is on. This way, you can keep the pumps running. A quick test of the low pressure pump (assuming you've put new fuel in the tank) is to turn the pump on (with the engine off). The fuel flows from the tank to the pump, then to the FCC. The excess flows back into the tank, so if it is working, you will hear fuel splashing back into the tank from the return hose.

As for the high pressure pump, the proof is in the PSI at the rail, so it sounds good so far. If you unplug the low pressure pump and run the pump circuit, you should hear the high pressure pump (you can feel the vibration if you hold the FCC with it running).

Key to these tests are jumping the tester port pin so the pumps keep running with the engine off so you can hear.

If by chance you determine the engine is bad, there is always:

http://www.ski-it-again.com/php/skiitagain.php?topic=Search&category=Parts_Engine&postid=18032

If you had water sitting in the boat, the steering cable could have been compromised. How does the steering wheel turn? The blower motor is down there too..

AMB wrote: If by chance you determine the engine is bad, there is always: http://www.ski-it-again.com/php/skiitagain.php?topic=Search&category=Parts_Engine&postid=18032 If you had water sitting in the boat, the steering cable could have been compromised. How does the steering wheel turn? The blower motor is down there too..

Link for Al

slmskrs wrote: Oh, on the starter, make sure you get one with the correct rotation! I doubt you can salvage it.

Gordon,
There is a good chance he can salvage the starter. Tearing it down and then a good clean up especially the armature commutator should do it. I'd suggest new brushes, checking the axial play on the bushings and making sure the Bendix is free should do it.

I had a oilless compressor for my boathouse aeration go under water when the ice took out the cribbing. It was under for better than 2 months. I took it apart, cleaned it up, put it back together and plugged it in!

The varnish used to insulate the the windings of any electric motor is not affected by water.

While the boat was filled with water from time to time, the previous owner would stop by every couple of weeks and empty it out either with the bilge pump, or a hand pump. It was not submerged for extremely long periods of time (or so he said). The starter was not salvageable, so we had to purchase a new one. The steering cable is actually just fine! Steers pretty smoothly. All other vitals seem to be okay. I'm about to go out and reinstall the starter and see what she'll do. Before I do that, I'll test the pumps like you said. I think the engine had a pre existing condition that caused it to run rough and die, which is why he put it in storage. Because that was going to fix it, somehow? .. some people's logic is quite interesting. Anyways, I will update you as soon as I get everything put back together. Thanks so much for the informative replies! Jake

Silver15 wrote: While the boat was filled with water from time to time, the previous owner would stop by every couple of weeks and empty it out either with the bilge pump, or a hand pump. Jake

You should ask him why he just didn't open the garboard drain!

Pete, we took the starter to a guy here in Orlando who has always done us right... we trusted his assessment. I would have posted a picture, but we already turned it in for core charge... you could pretty much tell it had "become one". I just spun the engine over with new starter. Everything sounds good as far as I can tell. Haven't checked compression, but there is good, solid spark. Also, the fuel pumps no longer turn on. I tried using the test port as I had seen a picture of in AMB's post, but no pump noise. When I ground the connector, I can hear a clicking of a relay, but that's it.

When we arrived on site to pick up the boat, we immediately pulled the plug to which the owner replied, "Wow, I never noticed that there." I suppose I have to thank people like that. If they weren't around, I wouldn't be able to buy their boats after they ruin them!

Silver15 wrote: Pete, we took the starter to a guy here in Orlando who has always done us right... we trusted his assessment. I would have posted a picture, but we already turned it in for core charge... you could pretty much tell it had "become one".

I figured that's what happened. A auto electric shop really isn't set up to go beyond their normal test, bush and brush "rebuild" and the reason I mentioned it's something you can do yourself. Think about one thing - the starter has a core value because it will get sent back to companies that will rebuild them! I was too late with my comment to save you the expence.

That's a good story about the drain! You'll never forget it!

TRBenj wrote: its not worth rebuilding the old one, IMHO.

Tim,
I guess I have a tendency to work on older items than yourself and enjoy tearing into them to rebuild to a functioning condition. In many cases, it's also the only option as well. I also save a few $$$ in the process. A couple hours opening up a starter is worth my time.

TRBenj wrote:    I can buy a brand new starter for $100 as opposed to paying $180 to have someone else rebuild the one I have, thats a no-brainer. Im not opposed to cracking things open and learning how to repair them, but for such an inexpensive, readily available item, I guess Id just rather go skiing! (Or maybe work on one of my thousand other projects that I cant finish by throwing $100 at them ).

Just wait untill the time comes when you get married and possibly have some kids. Those deep pockets of yours will get real shallow in a hurry!

BTW, how are things going with Melisa?

Jake,
Get it running, get some Marvel Mystery oil down the cylinders and put some minimal run time on it. Then, do another compression test on it. If it's still bad, then you know there are still some issues. You have nothing to loose and at least you tried. You may even have some valves sticking.

Oh, you might want to pull the distributor and turn the oil pump a bit before you try to start it. I'd make sure you've got lots of oil everywhere (and hopefully displaced any moisture if there is some inside the engine).

This gentlemen called me today and is rather motivated to sell his GT-40 might be able to get it for less then advertised and it is a great running machine http://www.ski-it-again.com/php/skiitagain.php?topic=Search&category=Parts_Engine&postid=18032

Our relays for the fuel pumps was bad. We just hardwired the connection using alligator clips, and they both pump well. 40psi on the rail. The engine will spin and start briefly, and sounds alright. Our batteries died, but after a good night's charge we will try again tomorrow and see what we can do. I haven't changed the oil or bothered pulling the distributor, but that's a good idea. Pete, you may be right. There is a little bit of clicking from beneath one of the valve covers, so there could be a stuck valve somewhere. Not sure, yet. It looks like you must remove the manifolds in order to remove the valve cover. Jody, the GT40 you posted looks clean and all, and I guess that's a good deal (I haven't researched pricing at all yet), but with 1700+ hours, does it still have life left on it? It's a little bit of a drive from me, but if it's really a good deal, it may be worth the journey.   
Thanks a lot,
Jake.

Jake,
The exhaust manifolds shouldn't have to come off to get the valve covers off. You will however need a flex joint on a 1/4" ratchet to get to the outside cover bolts. It's tight!