First oil change ever

You may end up needing this:
http://www.skidim.com/prodinfo.asp?number=RK024056C
Just be careful with the threads on the oil pan itself.

When I look at mine, someone before me must have had a helluva time at some point, whatever they did to it, I've got only two good flats left on one of the nuts, and it winds up taking a 16mm and a 9/16ths to get it off.

If you arrange the two wrenches, so that they are close enough together, that you can just squeeze them together with your hands, it makes it a lot easier. If you arrange them all spread out so that you're doing some kind of weirdo chest exercise, your headed for trouble.

The only trick I can give now is get a friend (or a vice) to secure one of the wrenches firmly against a bench of table and you use the other one. Or, you may put a socket in a vice, and use that for one of the nuts.

One more thing:
Flare Nut Wrenches are good to have when you're working with brass. They're commonly used on fuel lines and fittings, such as around the carb.

Not normally needed for the oil drain, but they'll give you that extra grip, and keep the brass nuts from deforming.

well- The vice ended up working great, now I have the assembly hand tight for the end of the season when I change the oil again. However the tube is not as snug as I would have liked over the male piece, so I am just going to go get one of those sinch clamps that are at the end of every tube in the engine. Hopefully that solves the problem.

yes make sure it is clampled well, if that comes off and you lose your oil while running that will be all she wrote for your engine. Its a cheap part protecting an expensive one.

Yup, common problem with the filters. They sort of tighten over time oddly enough. You need to get yourself an oil filter pliers. The strap kind works good. Your local sears, or auto parts store should have it. Don't go too far without getting the proper tool. Or, you'll wind up just making things worse.

Use the clamp near the end of the filter where it is stonger. If you use it in the middle it might collapse, or so I have heard .

The first time for anything always takes more time than you think.

I have an equally simple question, I have a Air Nautique SV211 and I am changing the engine oil. I found the Quick Drain Kit but I don't know how to position the drain hose out the drain plug in the bottom of the hull. I don't know if the hose is too short or am i suppose to run it under the engine. I can't see to place it and I don't want to lose the hose and not be able hang it where it is stored.
Can someone help?
Thanks

Thanks, so you run the oil drain hose under the engine to the hull drain hole which is under the tranny? Where is the drain hose attached to the engine? at the stern, mid engine or forward? Knowing this might help me decide how to place the hose and how to get it back to store.
Thanks again.

This is what mine looks like. The arrow is where it connects to the motor and you can see the hose in the back ground under the engine. My hull drain is right under the motor you cant miss it but I am not sure where yours is, look under the boat while on a trailer you should be able to see it.

The easy answer on the filter is just don't ever use a Fram filter. They may have some higher end filters that are OK, but they have enough marginal filters that just staying away from the brand is the best path. There are many other better options.

If, after no changes on the engine, you run the same oil you've always run and get 15-20 psi higher oil pressure readings, I'd suspect the gauge first. Get a mechanical oil pressure gauge and install it on the engine, it will give you an accurate reading to compare your dash gauge to. I doubt you have any issues running M1 20W50 oil.

Thanks. I will take a look. Any comment on what standard oil pressure would be running the 20W50?

Mobil1 15W-50 has the ZDDP.

KENO wrote: You could check your pressure with a good well dampened mechanical gauge tee'd in where the oil pressure sending unit is. If you don't use one that has good dampening, the needle will be fluctuating over a wide range and give you some fairly useless readings

I thought all automotive type oil pressure gauges were dampened. I must have just been lucky on the ones I've bought, have read reasonably steady.

KENO wrote: If you get an automotive mechanical gauge the dampening is good, but if you rummage around and take that cheap 100 psi gauge off your air compressor tee it in and try to use it to check oil pressure, you'll get quite a fluctuation

The other problem with that method is it leaves a loud leak in the compressor!