Help!

Linda,
I'm confused to what you are actually asking. The RWP always pumps the same volume. What the engine doesn't need via the T stat, the excess water goes out to via the exhaust.

Not sure whether this answers your question exactly or not, but, I drained my block and manifolds (PCM), and drained it into a bucket. It filled about half of a 5 gallon bucket. Hope this helps some.

This is the same reason you don't have to warm up your engine in order to get anti freeze in the block when winterizing. Hollywood has posted a photo of a thermostat housing recently showing the bypass. Other than that I have no idea what you are asking.

eljayrx wrote: 81nautique wrote: This is the same reason you don't have to warm up your engine in order to get anti freeze in the block when winterizing. Hollywood has posted a photo of a thermostat housing recently showing the bypass. Other than that I have no idea what you are asking. i hear you--- not according to some in the forum... Thanks again!

Linda,
I as well as Alan are obviously confused to your question??? What are you really concerned about?

"not according to some in the forum"? Tell us more!!

81nautique wrote: This is the same reason you don't have to warm up your engine in order to get anti freeze in the block when winterizing. Hollywood has posted a photo of a thermostat housing recently showing the bypass. Other than that I have no idea what you are asking.

Would love to find that post---- ty very much!

Sounds like she did a suck up method without draining first, possibly without the engine up to operating temperature.

eljayrx wrote:     Would love to find that post---- ty very much!

a little ways down page two.

Full circulation if water doesn't mean it's all from the RWP.

Think about it this way, the thermostat is the EXIT from the block, the circulating water pump will circulate the water in the block until it warms to the temperature the thermostat will open, then the   pressure drop described above will allow the raw water pump to replace that water with cool water from the lake, the presure balance occurs in the thermostat housing.

8122pbrainard---------------- hoping that some made it.. for now-- temps dropped big time... If some made it then I'm hoping I have bought some-time............................!

gun-driver wrote: If the block was drained prior to sucking in the antifreeze it got in, if the block was not drained it probably didn't at least not as much as you want in it. Pull a drain plug see if you get antifreeze or water.

thanks Im just hoping some made it for now.I'm going to have to make a trip up there and, have this done over.. My brother was afraid of trying to get those drain plugs out,, He said they look rusted and maybe frozen,
    How about taking the thermo out and doing the suck up method? about 6 gallons.. Would this be ok?

If i did get some for now then , i'm hoping time was bought..ty GUN!

Sucking up is usually a bit more cumbersome than pouring in (especially on a direct drive), but theyre both effective. Of course, you MUST drain first.

The difference between the cold vs. the pour/suck diagram is the presence of water in the block (cold) vs. empty (pour/suck). Fluid will not enter the block if its already full and has nowhere to go. Its going to follow the path of least resistance... which would be out the manifolds. If everything is empty, the port in the PCM t'stat housing that feeds the block is lower than the exit to the manifolds- so gravity ensures it will fill first.

Not all thermostat housings are created equal though... so if trying to fill a non-PCM, the safe bet is to pour in through the large circ pump hose.

Good Luck Linda - Hope it is OK.

This is the type of information that we can straighten out.