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4mor View Drop Down
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    Posted: December-07-2012 at 9:04pm
I own a 1966 Ski Nautique with the Chrysler 318 c.i engine, 210 hp. hull number 1405. Does anyone else own a Nautique, say 1966thru 1970 with the Chrysler engine? Or, if you replaced this engine with another, did you keep the Chrysler somewhere and is it for sale?
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 62 wood Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: December-07-2012 at 9:37pm
Bill,
Cant help you on the 60's SN's myself, but I own a few other "early" Correct Crafts and most here prefer trying to keep our boats pretty much stock.

Is there something wrong with the 318? Is it a Poly? What condition is the boat in?

What would your engine re-power be if not back to stock?

Post some pics and fill us in on the old girl!!
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 8122pbrainard Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: December-07-2012 at 10:00pm
Bill,
Welcome to CCfan. You have found the absolute best site for helping you with 66 SN.

Yes, pictures are real important for all of our members to help.

You can utilize the sight search feature to get a better idea of what others have done - there are several threads on your hull/engine.

Yes, keep it original. It will pay back in the long run. As a ACBS member/judge, I will tell you a repower is NOT a good option. Rebuild the old.

Make sure you get some pictures and text submitted for the diary section. A 66 is a classic and it should be in that section.

Do some site exploring - There's lots of info available.


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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Gary S Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: December-07-2012 at 10:35pm
Welcome Bill. I have to ask,whats wrong with yours? Jake in Florida is parting out a 66 Cuda with a 318 here. trouble is thats pretty far away but how often do they come up? If it's just a block problem will an automotive block work?
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4mor View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 4mor Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: December-07-2012 at 11:42pm
Gary S.
In 2010, I found that the engine oil had water in it. It had not run that way very long, maybe 2 or 3 hours as I check the oil before every outing. To make a long story short, I had the engine repaired and it ran good for the 2011 and 2012 waterski season. At the end of the 2012 season (Nov 7th) I took an oil sample to Empire Equipment for an analysis. The report said that the oil had excessively high chrome, iron, and lead. Meaning to me that something is not receiving enough lubrication and is breaking down. Right now, I am thinking of having the engine pulled by US Engines in Kent,Wn or S& J Engines in Spokane,Wn sometime in the early Spring. Although it had good power, the oil analysis was not good. I would rather have the engine teardown accomplished than run it until something very serious happens. The date on the block is 6/12/65. It is way different than a car 318. It has a cast iron pan (8qt) and timing chain cover. It uses solid lifters and solid intake and exhaust valves. Engine serial number is 92887, model number M318BWR-10.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Gary S Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: December-08-2012 at 1:48am
Why don't you get a 2nd opinion? It would be easier than have it pulled apart again.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Dreaming Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: December-08-2012 at 4:04am
4mor, I have used a machine shop in federal way called honest performance .   I really liked their service and small business feel.   If you want more details, shoot me a pm.... We can't be that far apart....
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 8122pbrainard Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: December-08-2012 at 11:45am
Originally posted by 4mor 4mor wrote:

   It is way different than a car 318. It has a cast iron pan (8qt) and timing chain cover. It uses solid lifters and solid intake and exhaust valves.

Bill,
The marine engine starts with a automotive block. All the marinizing are bolt on's. Yes, later 318's went to hydraulic lifters but back in the mid 60's, I can say even the automotives had solids.


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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote phatsat67 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: December-08-2012 at 12:33pm
She's a poly! Maybe its simply worn out is there an hour meter? It's an old girl and has probably provided many many hours of operation to that boat.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 65Cuda Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: December-08-2012 at 2:45pm
I have a 65 Barracuda with a 318 poly. A short time ago I was in desperate need of some manifolds and ended up finding a semi-complete 318 (missing alternator and water pump). I am in NC, so it's probably too far for you...anyway, thought I would bring it up.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 4mor Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: December-08-2012 at 6:50pm
A second opinion on the oil sample used by Empire Equipment is no longer available. The engine oil has all been pulled and discarded. The boat and engine has been winterized and is in dry storage, Thanks, Keep in touch.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 4mor Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: December-08-2012 at 6:55pm
Thanks. That's my engine only mine is in much better condition Don't throw it away! Who knows when there may be something that could be used. I will try to post some pictures of the boat and engine soon.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 8122pbrainard Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: December-08-2012 at 8:56pm
Bill,
What oil are you using? There are plenty of threads regarding oil but you need plenty of ZDDP for the old flat tappet engines. I happen to like Valvoine VR1 20-50.


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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 65Cuda Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: December-08-2012 at 9:10pm
just let me know if you need it...I have what I need off it, the next step was going to rebuild and hang on to it. But if someone out there needs it, I have it.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 4mor Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: December-09-2012 at 1:05am
that's great. Even looks like the same carburetor; a AFB3213S. Is that a Jabsco dual impeller pump on it?
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote hein Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: December-09-2012 at 7:31am
A bad day skiing is better than a good day at work.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote hein Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: December-09-2012 at 7:37am
The above pic is of my installation,same vintage,however locally built in South Africa.It was pulled of a late 60s Nautique mould,see pics on a previous post.The installation is a Chrysler 383,ran beautifully.unfortunately it seized up,and Im now in the process of replacing it with a 390 Ford.I had a 318 in a previous boat,was very happy with it.My advice would also be to rather fix what you have than repower.Think about different bellhousing,starter,manifolds,plumbing and mounts,trust me,it goes with a lot of head scratching.
A bad day skiing is better than a good day at work.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Gary S Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: December-09-2012 at 1:51pm
No where does it say he wants to change the make or size of his engine,he was just asking that if someone took out a 318 he would be interested in it.
To the rest of us not knowing the history of the engine,he states the water problem was repaired,no mention of a rebuild. An oil analysis now tells him he has abnormal wear,no indication of the number of hours on it. If it was rebuilt recently I'd be concerned and would get a second opinion,if not maybe it's just time.Getting another motor would to me be counter productive too,the one you have is repairable,original? to the boat.To buy another would put you right where you are now,alot of unknowns.
One thing Bill is to do your homework on those engine guy's, get some references.Your talking of doing this in the spring at a time when a good shop would be up to their necks in work,be careful. I called the shop that Alan and I used for machine work last May about doing the machine work on a tractor engine. He told me straight out,could not get to it until fall.Caveat emptor
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 4mor Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: December-09-2012 at 4:33pm
After the engine was put back together in the Winter of 2010 (the heads had been pulled, the left was found to have a crack in it so other heads were found and rebuilt and reinstalled) the only oil that has been used since then is Valvoline 10W-30 synthetic blend. What do you think ? What is ZDDP?
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 4mor Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: December-09-2012 at 4:39pm
Thanks to all for the continued dialog. The engine hour meter reads 409. Except for the last two seasons, the engine oil used was Quaker State HD 30. After that, I used Valvoline 10W-30 synthetic. By the way, what is a "poly" engine?
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 65Cuda Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: December-09-2012 at 5:09pm
Check out the forum yhread with the topic

looking for 1965 Chrysler exhaust manifold elbow


This one has a discussion on the poly engine
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 65Cuda Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: December-09-2012 at 5:14pm
Link to the discussion...

correctcraftfan.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=28278&KW=manifold&PID=363764&title=looking-for-1965-chrysler-exhaust-manifold-elbow#363764
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote cphase Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: December-09-2012 at 7:40pm
Thanks,

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 8122pbrainard Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: December-09-2012 at 8:06pm
Originally posted by 4mor 4mor wrote:

Except for the last two seasons, the engine oil used was Quaker State HD 30. After that, I used Valvoline 10W-30 synthetic. By the way, what is a "poly" engine?

Your using a oil without enough ZZDP is most likely the cause of the high metallic readings from the oil analysis. You are chewing up your cam and lifters.


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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Tonali_III Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: December-09-2012 at 8:08pm
Welcome, Bill. CCF is the best site that I have found for anything CC. As for your 318, I concur with others: rebuild what you have. You should be able to find a reputable machine shop that will help keep your 318 intact. Is it a right hand rotation? (standard for marine use) If so, you might try having Lunati in Memphis, TN helping you with a cam grind. They are familiar with Chrysler Marine engines. Also check out Hurrikain Marine (www.hurrikain.com). Dave Kain is my go to guy for Chrysler inboards.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Gary S Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: December-09-2012 at 9:05pm
Originally posted by 8122pbrainard 8122pbrainard wrote:

Your using a oil without enough ZZDP is most likely the cause of the high metallic readings from the oil analysis. You are chewing up your cam and lifters.


+1 and I'd bet having the heads redone did not help either
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 4mor Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: December-10-2012 at 12:52am
Thanks for the info. When looking at the front of the engine as it is running the belt is turning counter clock wise. I've been told that this is "reverse" rotation.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 4mor Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: December-10-2012 at 1:01am
I bought the SN new at the factory in Orlando,FL in the Fall of 1965 as a model year 1966. The engine has 409 hours on it. I have kept everything as it was sold to me except for the carpeting. The original floor covering was a black and white speckle rubber mat. It got very hot in the summer sun however, it is still in the boat giving added protection to the plywood flooring under the carpet now being used.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Gary S Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: December-10-2012 at 2:15am
Bill, post some pictures of your boat for us, sounds like a beauty. Not too many around that can say they had it that long! After you read the wikipedia entry you'll say yep thats what happened-
"The main use of ZDDP is in anti-wear additives to lubricants such as greases, gear oils, and motor oils, which often contain less than 1% of this additive. It has been reported that zinc and phosphorus emissions may damage catalytic converters and standard formulations of lubricating oils for gasoline engines now have reduced amounts of the additive, though diesel engine oils remain at higher levels.[3] Crankcase oils with reduced ZDDP have been cited as causing damage to, or failure of, classic/collector car flat tappet camshafts and lifters which undergo very high boundary layer pressures and/or shear forces at their contact faces, and in other regions such as big-end/main bearings, and piston rings and pins. Roller camshafts are more commonly used to reduce camshaft lobe friction in modern engines. There are additives, such as STP(R) Oil Treatment, and some racing oils such as Valvoline VR-1,[4] are available in the retail market with the necessary amount of ZDDP for engines using increased valve spring pressures. See "external links" in this article. The same ZDDP compounds serve also as corrosion inhibitors and antioxidants".
Valvoline VR1 is what most use here,it's easy to get,and sometimes on sale at auto stores.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote turningpoint84 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: December-10-2012 at 4:49pm
Gary/Peter or anyone, so just VR1 20-50 you guys suggest is the best for these older engines? I have yet to change the oil on my 1970 318( I didn't even put 15minutes on the engine yet), but I'm going to 1st thing this summer. So this should be the oil i get?
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