Classic Nautiques

I know everyone has their favorite oil, and I agree that you need ZDDP. I am not trying to be disagreeable or dismiss Gary or Pete's advice, they, and others here, are Correct Craft experts, something I am not.
Oil analysis shows Valvoline VR-1 to have 1200 to 1300 PPM of ZDDP. I am sure it is good oil, and it is the least difficult to find.
I prefer and use Redline 40WT (15W40) race oil in my old Willys and some of my friends vehicles with antique flat tappet engines. At 2500 PPM of Phosphorus and 2400 PPM of Zinc, it has twice as much ZDDP as Valvoline VR-1. Although probably not necessary, I will use it in my Mustang (1970 Ford 302) when I finish it this summer. Remember, most racing motor oils have less detergent and require more frequent oil changes than "regular" motor oil, Valvoline VR-1 and Redline included. With their reduced level of detergent, the oils will not keep contaminants in suspension as well as conventional oils.

Redline 40WT oil

I remember "260". That was the greatest fuel that Sunoco put out. Imagine being able to get that kind of octane simply by selecting it at your Sunoco gas station.

i would trust any local engine rebuild shop . most of those guys that have been in business have worked on everything ever made.
guys . how come going to street rod events , cruise nights hanging around a life time of motor heads no one ever talks about zddp for classic cars?

I found both engine repair shops on-line under "Chrysler 318 marine engines" and I have talked to both on the phone. Both are very capable engine rebuild shops familiar with the "poly" engine which is clearly different than post 1976 engines. I am open to other suggestions. I am looking for the best, most capable shop familiar with the requirements of marine engines.

4mor wrote:    One of the shops is U.S. Engines in Kent, Wn. the other is S & J Engines in Spokane, Wn.

I'm not understanding why you have to travel so far for engine work.

I would love to have your extra 318 poly, but right now, I don't know where I could keep it. I know that my engine need to come out of the boat for a close inspection to see why my last oil sample analysis had the high iron, chrome and lead readings. Something is not getting the lubrication that it needs and, so, the inspection before I ruin it. Not sure if I will pull the engine here (Peoria, Az.) and ship it to repair shops that are knowledgeable about the ploys or take the boat and engine to them. One of the shops is U.S. Engines in Kent, Wn. the other is S & J Engines in Spokane, Wn. Not looking forward to a trip to either place, especially this time of the year so, most likely, if I make the trip, it would be more like the middle of April. Also, and maybe you can help me...I not sure if my poly is a reverse rotation engine. Looking at the front of the engine when running, it turns counter-clockwise. Is that reverse rotation? Anyway, lets stay in touch and maybe we can solve both our problems.

I will. Thanks

Wow! Sounds like a wonderful boat. I will do all I can to keep the original 318 in the boat. A lot of members are telling me that keeping the boat original is the best way to hold its value. I am still exploring my options with the hot oil sample taken on Nov. 6,2012 showing excessive chrome, iron, and lead. So, something is wearing out faster than it should and I need to find out what before I ruin the engine.

For what it's worth, I've got a Chrysler 360 in my 1975 Century; never been rebuilt and still runs great. Go Mopar.

I just caught the video on Youtube that was made of the repairs to a kayak.

Billy, I must say, you are a card. I truly enjoyed it. And I truly look forward to your words of wisdom.

I like the part about "flame-able" and "in-flame-able". That was sweet.

And you're right. It doesn't make any sense.

Tonali_III wrote: A "poly" engine has to do with the basic design of the Chrysler 318. While I am not an expert in this area, I believe the "poly" 318 was made before 1967 and has to do with the design of the block. When I was a kid, we used used to call them "big block 318's". I do know the "poly" engine has to do with the physical dimensions of the block. Copy and paste the link below to get the proper definition from MOPAR. http://www.allpar.com/mopar/a-engines.html

The design refers to the "head / valve/ spark plug location" The head design alone is the major factor here, not block size as you stateed above.
Slang in the Old Days for the poly was "Semi-Hemi" and the Saw Tooth valve covers were too cool....

Fram ad "pay me now...or pay me later".

I have had zero problems with a Fram in the 34+ years I have been operating gasoline internal combustion engines.

And while I don't have quite the experiences that you have, my experiences has been...learning experiences as well.

However, as my grandfather said, "The day a man that is through learning, is the day they better be burying him." Wise old guy he was.

also the reason when I found my extra engine, I had to buy it...parts are tough to find for a poly. I only pulled the manifolds off right now but hope to attempt to start it in the coming weeks.

A "poly" engine has to do with the basic design of the Chrysler 318. While I am not an expert in this area, I believe the "poly" 318 was made before 1967 and has to do with the design of the block. When I was a kid, we used used to call them "big block 318's". I do know the "poly" engine has to do with the physical dimensions of the block.

Copy and paste the link below to get the proper definition from MOPAR.

http://www.allpar.com/mopar/a-engines.html

BTW, here is the link to Rislone's product:

http://barsproducts.com/catalog/view/22-engine-oil-supplement-with-zinc-treatment-4401

We all can judge for ourselves.