Boats For Sale:
Cutlass Bearing Replacement |
Post Reply 
|
Page <12 |
| Author | |
8122pbrainard 
Grand Poobah 
Joined: September-14-2006 Location: Three Lakes Wi. Status: Offline Points: 41045 |
 Post Options
 Thanks(0)
 Quote Reply
 Posted: January-06-2013 at 8:44am |
|
The set screws are just added for some extra assistance to hold the cutlass in place. They do not align it in any way, The bore of the strut to the OD of the cutlass does that. Sometimes it's a pretty close fit.
|
|
 |
|
|
gR@HaM
Platinum Member 
Joined: May-01-2012 Location: UK Status: Offline Points: 1265 |
Post Options
Thanks(0)
Quote Reply
Posted: January-06-2013 at 7:13am |
|
I noticed that mine doesn't have screws in either of the holes!
|
|
|
'82 Ski Tique
|
|
|
|
|
tbeard
Senior Member 
Joined: April-26-2012 Location: Fort Worth TX Status: Offline Points: 379 |
Post Options
Thanks(0)
Quote Reply
Posted: January-06-2013 at 3:37am |
|
The bearing is out:) I used a hack saw blade due to the rudder being in the way of the Sawsall. The old one is 6 inches long and there are 2 set screws that snug it in place. With my 4 inch bearing I can only utilize one set screw! Is that acceptable?
|
|
|
Thanks.......Tom
|
|
|
|
|
tbeard
Senior Member
Joined: April-26-2012 Location: Fort Worth TX Status: Offline Points: 379 |
Post Options
Thanks(0)
Quote Reply
Posted: January-05-2013 at 2:40pm |
|
Excellent....Thx Pete,
Will remove the bearing today. Is the bearing self centering? What function do the set screws serve other that keeping the bearing from working itself out of the strut? Do the set screws help align the bearing in any way? |
|
|
Thanks.......Tom
|
|
|
|
|
8122pbrainard
Grand Poobah
Joined: September-14-2006 Location: Three Lakes Wi. Status: Offline Points: 41045 |
Post Options
Thanks(0)
Quote Reply
Posted: January-05-2013 at 10:15am |
|
Tom,
The common method of cutlass removal is to Sawsall the cutlass the length of the bore being careful not to cut into the strut. Then, you can use a punch to curl it in on itself. It will then be loose so it will come out. The new cutlass install is easy with a section of threaded rod long enough to go through the bores of the strut and the cutlass. With some large washers (and nuts) on each end, just crank the nuts and it will pull right into the strut. Just be careful on getting the cutlass started straight. |
|
|
|
|
tbeard
Senior Member
Joined: April-26-2012 Location: Fort Worth TX Status: Offline Points: 379 |
Post Options
Thanks(0)
Quote Reply
Posted: January-05-2013 at 3:20am |
|
Ordered a 4 inch bearing and new packing material today. Disassembled the packing nuts, rubber hose and pulled the shaft out of the hull.
Have been searching the site for detailed step by step instal/setup for the cutlass bearing removal/instalation and shaft alignment prior to mounting to the trans coupler. After reviewing the steps outlined in Pete's video....I am not to that point yet (although his video is excellent). Can someone provide a previous post or info that will educate me? Thank you.....Tom |
|
|
Thanks.......Tom
|
|
|
|
|
JoeinNY
Grand Poobah
Joined: October-19-2005 Location: United States Status: Offline Points: 5698 |
Post Options
Thanks(0)
Quote Reply
Posted: January-04-2013 at 2:19pm |
|
And thats the same boat I haven't realigned in the last three engines, 300+ hours, and few hundred power turns. It takes a pretty firm one finger push though, you still are dragging some weight and oil but they run pretty smooth.
|
|
|
|
|
TRBenj
Grand Poobah
Joined: June-29-2005 Location: NWCT Status: Offline Points: 21185 |
Post Options
Thanks(0)
Quote Reply
Posted: January-04-2013 at 2:08pm |
|
Yup! Poke your head under Joe's boat next time you see it.
|
|
|
|
|
Riley
Grand Poobah
Joined: January-19-2004 Location: Portland, ME Status: Offline Points: 7953 |
Post Options
Thanks(0)
Quote Reply
Posted: January-04-2013 at 2:07pm |
|
You can actually spin the prop with one finger and it will do a few revolutions?
|
|
|
|
|
TRBenj
Grand Poobah
Joined: June-29-2005 Location: NWCT Status: Offline Points: 21185 |
Post Options
Thanks(0)
Quote Reply
Posted: January-04-2013 at 1:34pm |
|
No, thats for a pair Gary. Supposedly longer life out of them vs. rubber, but time will tell on that- Joe is running them. The part that impressed me the most was the low resistance. Easily 1-finger spin-able, and the prop would do a few revolutions before coming to a stop. Zero play/slop too. Pretty impressive. Would have used them on the BFN if we didnt end up ordering a new strut for it (which came loaded with new rubber bushings). Ive got a pair of the XPC's on my desk just waiting to in something...
|
|
|
|
|
Gary S
Grand Poobah
Joined: November-30-2006 Location: Illinois Status: Offline Points: 14096 |
Post Options
Thanks(0)
Quote Reply
Posted: January-04-2013 at 1:21pm |
|
[QUOTE=TRBenj] .
For $60, I would personally opt for the OJ XPC bushings instead of the brass/rubber. QUOTE] What is the difference Tim? And by the description is that each? |
|
|
|
|
Waternut
Senior Member
Joined: July-11-2012 Location: Macon, GA Status: Offline Points: 292 |
Post Options
Thanks(0)
Quote Reply
Posted: January-04-2013 at 12:41pm |
|
I'm gonna thread jack slightly... My strut has 2 - 2" bearings in it and I'm about to replace them. Obviously the shaft is worn in those two locations and not in the middle. Would there be an advantage or disadvantage to installing a 4" bearing instead of 2 - 2" bearings?
|
|
|
|
|
TRBenj
Grand Poobah
Joined: June-29-2005 Location: NWCT Status: Offline Points: 21185 |
Post Options
Thanks(0)
Quote Reply
Posted: January-04-2013 at 11:53am |
|
It would also be fine to order a set of 2 of the smaller bushings and install one at each end of the strut body.
For $60, I would personally opt for the OJ XPC bushings instead of the brass/rubber. OJ XPC bushings from SkiDIM |
|
|
|
|
8122pbrainard
Grand Poobah
Joined: September-14-2006 Location: Three Lakes Wi. Status: Offline Points: 41045 |
Post Options
Thanks(0)
Quote Reply
Posted: January-04-2013 at 9:12am |
|
Tom,
Deep Blue has the 4" long cutlass. It is what I would install. Any longer and it just produces slightly more drag on the shaft. Install the cutlass all the way aft in the strut so it can take care of the radial loading of the prop as it's designed to do. BTW, for the convenience of all, here's a proper link. |
|
|
|
|
tbeard
Senior Member
Joined: April-26-2012 Location: Fort Worth TX Status: Offline Points: 379 |
Post Options
Thanks(0)
Quote Reply
Posted: January-04-2013 at 4:30am |
|
With further research this is what I found from a old Pete post.
"You will want the 1" ID by 1&1/4" OD. Length if you want to go all the way is 6" but, I've never seen a need for it to be that long. It's my opinion that 4" works just fine." This bearing from Deep Blue is 6 inches long. Is there a concern with assembly or something with this 6 inch bearing? http://www.deepblueyachtsupply.com/marine-bearings/naval-brass-inch-cutless-bearings |
|
|
Thanks.......Tom
|
|
|
|
|
tbeard
Senior Member
Joined: April-26-2012 Location: Fort Worth TX Status: Offline Points: 379 |
Post Options
Thanks(0)
Quote Reply
Posted: January-04-2013 at 3:48am |
|
We are at the point of assembly on the BFN. With the motor/trans out and prop removed I have some shaft movement in the cutlass bearing. I will try and mount a indicator on it tomorrow to see how much. At this point my gut tells me to replace the bearing prior to re-assembly and alignment.
Any recomendations on where to buy this bearing? Can I inspect for a bent shaft with a bad cutlass bearing or slop in the system? Thanks.... |
|
|
Thanks.......Tom
|
|
|
|
|
Post Reply
|
Page <12 |
Tweet
|
| Forum Jump | Forum Permissions You cannot post new topics in this forum You cannot reply to topics in this forum You cannot delete your posts in this forum You cannot edit your posts in this forum You cannot create polls in this forum You cannot vote in polls in this forum |
Topic Options