Boats For Sale:
Cutlass Bearing Replacement |
Post Reply 
|
Page <12 |
| Author | |
8122pbrainard 
Grand Poobah 
Joined: September-14-2006 Location: Three Lakes Wi. Status: Offline Points: 41045 |
 Post Options
 Thanks(0)
 Quote Reply
 Posted: March-19-2013 at 9:01pm |
|
Alignment starts at the strut. As Tim mentioned, check the shaft alignment to the log first.
The packing gland was too tight. It should not run hot. Hopefully the shaft isn't scored. |
|
 |
|
|
tbeard
Senior Member 
Joined: April-26-2012 Location: Fort Worth TX Status: Offline Points: 379 |
Post Options
Thanks(0)
Quote Reply
Posted: March-19-2013 at 9:36pm |
|
Thanks.... For the alignment I will start from the begining as the video shows: loosen the flange bolts, loosen the gland, check shaft run out at the log and then on the taper, find where the shaft sweet spot is and secure the shaft in that position, align motor/trans to the fixed position of the shaft/coupling.....Think I got it:) Thanks everyone.
|
|
|
Thanks.......Tom
|
|
|
|
|
GlassSeeker
Grand Poobah
Joined: November-26-2008 Location: Elk Grove, CA. Status: Offline Points: 2421 |
Post Options
Thanks(0)
Quote Reply
Posted: March-19-2013 at 9:40pm |
|
is there any trick/method to securing the shaft in the position so it can't move?
or how do you do that? |
|
|
This is the life
|
|
|
|
|
tbeard
Senior Member
Joined: April-26-2012 Location: Fort Worth TX Status: Offline Points: 379 |
Post Options
Thanks(0)
Quote Reply
Posted: March-19-2013 at 9:48pm |
|
I was told to use a block of wood with a "V" notch cut in it for the shaft to rest in. And slide it under the shaft until it is in the position you want. That is a pretty good idea and actually is the way "old machinist" used to check run out of round parts with "V" blocks. I will set it up and take some pics and post them.
|
|
|
Thanks.......Tom
|
|
|
|
|
lakedog55
Gold Member 
Joined: November-11-2010 Location: Lake Weir Fl Status: Offline Points: 835 |
Post Options
Thanks(0)
Quote Reply
Posted: March-20-2013 at 12:36am |
|
I used a strap from one of the gunnelrails to the other. It made a v and supported the shaft. |
|
|
Lakedog55
|
|
|
|
|
tbeard
Senior Member
Joined: April-26-2012 Location: Fort Worth TX Status: Offline Points: 379 |
Post Options
Thanks(0)
Quote Reply
Posted: March-20-2013 at 1:29am |
|
Mike that is a good idea also! So I did not support that shaft at all. I just slid it up to the trans coupling and adjusted the motor to align with it. I hope that is my problem. Going over to the shop tomorrow to get started.
|
|
|
Thanks.......Tom
|
|
|
|
|
gR@HaM
Platinum Member
Joined: May-01-2012 Location: UK Status: Offline Points: 1265 |
Post Options
Thanks(0)
Quote Reply
Posted: March-20-2013 at 8:22am |
|
Plenty of photos please i'm looking to do mine soon once I've got myself a new shaft
|
|
|
'82 Ski Tique
|
|
|
|
|
Waternut
Senior Member
Joined: July-11-2012 Location: Macon, GA Status: Offline Points: 292 |
Post Options
Thanks(0)
Quote Reply
Posted: March-20-2013 at 2:36pm |
|
I used the heat/freeze method for my cutlass bearing. I don't know if this is an approved method or not but it was definitely the easiest thing I've done on this install so far and certainly seems nicer than pressing the bearings in place. I had two 2" bearings. I put the bearings in the freezer for about an hour and heated the strut with a propane torch. Then I ran inside, grabbed one bearing, and could slip it in by hand about an inch before the heat started the expand it. Then I lightly tapped the last inch with a rubber mallet.
|
|
|
|
|
tbeard
Senior Member
Joined: April-26-2012 Location: Fort Worth TX Status: Offline Points: 379 |
Post Options
Thanks(0)
Quote Reply
Posted: March-23-2013 at 2:49am |
|
Ok I wanted to report back on the prop/shaft alignment progress. Thanks to Pete and Tim I now have enough knowledge to align this boat....I think.
1.) First I used a dial indicator and checked the shaft for bend. Shaft was within the .003 requirements. The shaft was not straight with the strut and the hull Log. I removed the Packing assembly and rubber hose off the log and the strut. I cleaned all the old adhesive and started shimming with washers until I had a good alignment through the Log and had the sweet spot (where the shaft spins with the least resistance). Then I used a flash light and looked for clearance between the hull and shaft from under the boat. 2.) Align drive train to shaft coupling within .003 3.) Assemble packing parts to Log. 4.) Use dial indicator and run out shaft at hull/Log and again on prop side of rudder. .003 max allowed. The shaft spins much easier and there is no interference with the hull. Thanks to all for the support |
|
|
Thanks.......Tom
|
|
|
|
|
tbeard
Senior Member
Joined: April-26-2012 Location: Fort Worth TX Status: Offline Points: 379 |
Post Options
Thanks(0)
Quote Reply
Posted: March-23-2013 at 3:30am |
 
|
|
|
Thanks.......Tom
|
|
|
|
|
8122pbrainard
Grand Poobah
Joined: September-14-2006 Location: Three Lakes Wi. Status: Offline Points: 41045 |
Post Options
Thanks(0)
Quote Reply
Posted: March-23-2013 at 9:42am |
|
Tom,
It sure sounds and looks like you have the idea except for checking the shaft straightness aft of the strut. You want to pull the prop and locate the dial indicator on the aft end of the taper. Where you have the indicator located will typically not pick up a bend. A shaft bend aft is typical from a prop hit and usually is around the aft end of the strut. |
|
|
|
|
tbeard
Senior Member
Joined: April-26-2012 Location: Fort Worth TX Status: Offline Points: 379 |
Post Options
Thanks(0)
Quote Reply
Posted: March-23-2013 at 2:52pm |
|
Thanks Pete,
Good idea. Will do this afternoon. The boat had some minor low to mid range vibration prior to the restration. So this inspection will provide the last piece of info to determine if the issue has been addressed. If it is straight then the whole alignment has to be within factory spec. - New cuttlass bearing - Restored prop - Straightened strut - Align power train/shaft within .002 - Clearance through hull and Log. |
|
|
Thanks.......Tom
|
|
|
|
|
tbeard
Senior Member
Joined: April-26-2012 Location: Fort Worth TX Status: Offline Points: 379 |
Post Options
Thanks(0)
Quote Reply
Posted: March-24-2013 at 2:00pm |
|
Contacted the indicator on the taper and ran out the shaft. .002 TIR at that point. So the shaft has a total of .0025 runout from the hull back to the end of the taper. Excellent
Ran the boat for 3 hours last night and that coupling spins in a very smooth and silent mode....very cool. Normal oil pressure, no leaks and normal water temp. Will continue adjust the packing gland. Truley an exercise that is critical to the operation of the boat. Thanks We are ready to start skiing  
|
|
|
Thanks.......Tom
|
|
|
|
|
8122pbrainard
Grand Poobah
Joined: September-14-2006 Location: Three Lakes Wi. Status: Offline Points: 41045 |
Post Options
Thanks(0)
Quote Reply
Posted: March-24-2013 at 2:18pm |
|
|
|
|
|
tbeard
Senior Member
Joined: April-26-2012 Location: Fort Worth TX Status: Offline Points: 379 |
Post Options
Thanks(0)
Quote Reply
Posted: March-24-2013 at 2:39pm |
|
Pete and Tim, Thanks for the education.
|
|
|
Thanks.......Tom
|
|
|
|
|
8122pbrainard
Grand Poobah
Joined: September-14-2006 Location: Three Lakes Wi. Status: Offline Points: 41045 |
Post Options
Thanks(0)
Quote Reply
Posted: March-24-2013 at 3:08pm |
|
Tom,
Thanks for the pictures. It will fill in the gaps of the alignment 101 thread for some since, when filmed, I didn't have a dial indicator. |
|
|
|
|
Post Reply
|
Page <12 |
Tweet
|
| Forum Jump | Forum Permissions You cannot post new topics in this forum You cannot reply to topics in this forum You cannot delete your posts in this forum You cannot edit your posts in this forum You cannot create polls in this forum You cannot vote in polls in this forum |
Topic Options