BAD BAD day - HELP

When you throw it back together.. carefully, then you do a compression test.. preferably before replumbing the fuel and ignition systems and adding new oil.. then report back results. Borrow a tester at the local autozone if you have to.. but definitely a good idea before getting it all done and fired up with water and oil.

Weel guys im going to get a gasket set and put the boat back as you all have advised.

I have been cleaning up all the sealing surfaces which is taking some time but im getting them smooth.

any advice on that? and also I have been looking at the summit racing fel pro gaskets and it seems there are multiple options. Whats the best buy for this application?

looking at ordering the Fel-pro 17261 gasket kit from summit... can any one confirm? also any place better to purchase it?

Hey guys,

I am trying to figure out if I ordered the correct gasket and I keep second guessing myself. I am questioning the riser gasket (square gasket between exhaust manifold and exhaust riser)

the ones i ordered match up perfect but one port is covered .

http://www.marineengine.com/newparts/part_details.php?pnum=SIE18-8504

can some one confirm if this is correct?

thanks TRBenj for the help. Im always greatful

I'm sure some will chime in shortly, but I know this is a recommended book for reference.

small block

My bad guys. I found the manual. I thought I had downloaded everything that the reference section had a while back and I couldnt find anything on it last night... went there just now and they have a 350 page manual right there...

stupid me... disregard dumb question about the torque

Didn't get to watch but I hope everything works out

My plan after talking with several buddies is to drain completely what I have in there now ( tilted trailer to try and get as much out) then fill with 2 quarts of transmission fluid and 3 quarts oil and idle it to temp again. then repeat this with oil only a couple times.

I think it has residual water in the oil pan and on components that needs to be flushed out.

no problems starting at all today just bad oil...

maybe you all have lost interest but im still working at it. sorry for the dull thread.

I had a similar experience and mine couldn't be fixed never could find exactly where water was entering but suspected intake to head water jackets.

I ended up new motor 90hp increase to 350 hp and I've been a happy boatrr since but had to cough up the big bucks.

Hey Andrew, I skimmed back over this thread. I don't remember how carefully you removed the water from the oil last time, did you do a couple of oil changes? Milkshake oil is persistent, can be hard to get rid of. I don't like the tranny fluid idea, prefer you use an engine flush product or 2 quarts of diesel fuel, diesel cuts the milkshake very effectively but only run at under 1,000 rpm for maybe 5 minutes, no more, then need a few more oil changes. Maybe tranny fluid works, I just don't have experience with it.

I hope it's just leftover water. In reading, I don't see if you ever had the intake checked for cracks, and not sure if you addressed the exhaust side at all. If you see the water again you'll have to go there. I know how frustrating this whole process has been but there's only a couple of places water can get in through.

When you fire it up, are you letting the motor pull it's own cooling water or are is there some sort of fake-a-lake type deal putting positive pressure on the cooling system?

The reason I asked, is a while back on another thread JoeinNY described a scenario where cooling water can be let into cylinders that haven't started firing yet, if the exhaust manifolds are questionable. I'll have to dig that up to remember the exact science behind it, but just throwing it out there.

If exhaust manifolds have internal cracks in the water jackets, they will leak water into the cylinder(s) if they are full of water.

There is no problem "forcing" water into the engine with a hose, there is no way water will get anywhere it doesnt belong unless you have a broken component (like an exhaust manifold, gasket, etc) but the same failure will occur once the engine is running anyways.

Of course, forcing water into the engine doesnt allow you to test the cooling system properly (if that is your goal), but it works just fine to run the boat on land.

Actually I didnt. I reassembled and put pil and filter on. Then started it. It started up fine. and I ran it up to 160 temp. the temp held there.

then I drained the oil and found it to me milky. Thats where I am right now.

Plan today is to bring the boat back to my house and put 1 quart of transmission fluid and the rest oil. and new filter (do you think i need to put a new filter in it if im going to drain immediately after anyway)

after that I will drain it again and add oil.

Thoughts?

I have a tester and can do a compression test... honestly just didnt think to do it after the fact