prop recommendations |
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JPASS
Grand Poobah Joined: June-17-2013 Location: Orlando Status: Offline Points: 2283 |
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Posted: August-11-2014 at 9:14am |
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After replacing the ProTec in our boat, I wound up dinging the stock 3 blade OJ on a tree stump in my buddy's canal when we took it out for a test drive the other day.
There's no detectable vibration at the wheel or through the drivetrain, but I am definitely going to have it sent out to be repaired eventually. I was also wondering what would be a good prop for a 92SN closed bow should I decide to just replace instead of repair my existing prop. I don't really care about top end as I spend very little time at WOT. I do notice the boat can sluggish when trying to pull up heavier people (240+lb) with a fully loaded boat. So may be something with a much better holeshot. I know ACME is always coming up in these types of threads. So what do you guys recommend? |
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'92 Correctcraft Ski Nautique
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Orlando76
Grand Poobah Joined: May-21-2013 Location: Mount Dora, FL Status: Offline Points: 3108 |
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My experience is a new Acme is not much more pennies than repairing a prop.
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TRBenj
Grand Poobah Joined: June-29-2005 Location: NWCT Status: Offline Points: 21169 |
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A new acme will cost 2-3x any prop repair I've ever heard of, but still worth it. I probably would not pay any money to have a federal fixed, you can probably find one in good shape for less money than a repair would cost. Better yet, fix it by hand and put it on the shelf as a spare and put the $ towards a new prop.
Jpass, proboss? Propping a boat for best all around use is best done by determining wot performance IMHO- even if you "don't care about top end speed". So baseline performance numbers would be helpful to have in order to give you the best recommendation. |
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backfoot100
Platinum Member Joined: January-03-2007 Location: United States Status: Offline Points: 1897 |
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If that's your experience, you better find a new prop shop. I concur with Tim, 2-3x the cost for a new Acme over repaired. |
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When people run down to the lake to see what's making that noise, you've succeeded.
Eddie |
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JPASS
Grand Poobah Joined: June-17-2013 Location: Orlando Status: Offline Points: 2283 |
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it's a 5.8L Pro Boss 351W with a 1.23:1 trans. I believe I have a 13x13 OJ. When I ran her Saturday before I dinged the prop I hit about 45-46 at 4900 RPMs.
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'92 Correctcraft Ski Nautique
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TRBenj
Grand Poobah Joined: June-29-2005 Location: NWCT Status: Offline Points: 21169 |
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Stock prop on that boat is a 14x16 and would result in numbers similar to what you posted. 13x13 is a 1:1 prop.
You want an acme 422. |
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Orlando76
Grand Poobah Joined: May-21-2013 Location: Mount Dora, FL Status: Offline Points: 3108 |
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I agree, need to find a new prop shop! I did not try Delta bc at the time I may or may not have realized they repair federals. Since JPass and I are local to each other I figd I'd offer my experience to him and say locally, repairs do not pay off. It's less than $100 savings in the end. Idk, maybe deep down I wanted to try an Acme and needed the extra push. |
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Hollywood
Moderator Group Joined: February-04-2004 Location: Twin Lakes, WI Status: Offline Points: 13513 |
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I wouldn't "pass" up a deal on a 654 or 470 either.
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lewy2001
Grand Poobah Joined: March-19-2008 Location: NSW Australia Status: Offline Points: 2234 |
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Add 1442 to that "pass" list also. But I feel like Tim the 422 would be my first choice with 1442 second then 654 third and 470 fourth. They will all be far better than your old Federal. |
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If you're going through hell, keep going
89 Ski <a href="http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=5685" ta |
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a0128
Senior Member Joined: May-05-2014 Location: Oregon Status: Offline Points: 226 |
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Check out this link - may be helpful.
http://www.wakemakers.com/nautique-wakeboard-boat-propellers While yours is not a Sport, the prop recommendations would be valid. |
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JPASS
Grand Poobah Joined: June-17-2013 Location: Orlando Status: Offline Points: 2283 |
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I was trying to post some pics of the markings on my prop, but I keep getting an error message (same as others).
Here's a video showing some slop I have in the prop. The side to side movement is only the prop, not the shaft. Is this normal or did hitting the stump do more damage than I thought? |
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'92 Correctcraft Ski Nautique
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MrMcD
Grand Poobah Joined: January-28-2014 Location: Folsom, CA Status: Offline Points: 3734 |
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Your Prop is not seated into your shaft. Buy some valve lapping compound, spread a little around on the shaft taper where the prop sits, put a little in the prop also. Mist it with a little water then put the prop on the shaft with no key way in place. Spin it on the shaft while gently moving it forward. Keep doing this for several minutes. Wash off with soap and water. Now install the prop on the shaft with no key way again. You might wipe the shaft with a little WD 40 or a light oil at this point. As you install the prop now and slide it forward it should slip forward and stick in place due to a good fit.
Mark your shaft on the engine side of the prop so you know how far it needs to slide on to fit properly. You may need a prop puller or a gentle tap with a rubber mallet to pop it off at this point. Lastly make sure your key way fits the shaft properly, should be no play. Make sure the key way also fits your prop well. Install the prop with a key way on the final install. Make sure the prop slides all the way on and matches up to the mark you put on the shaft. If it matches the mark on the shaft you can install the lock nut and cotter key. If it does not match back up to your mark on the shaft you need to find out why. Usually it means the cotter key is not fitting well and you may need to file it for clearance. After you run it with a properly seated prop you will need a good prop puller to get it off each time. There are good Utube video's showing this procedure and you can even use some Prussian blue to test fit your prop and look for good contact on the shaft. The taper fit is what locks the prop to the shaft, the key way and nut will fail if the taper fit is not good. Your prop will also run smoother if fit properly. |
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mark c
Gold Member Joined: May-09-2012 Location: Massachusetts Status: Offline Points: 534 |
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Also make sure the Key isn't sitting so far forward its in the arc of the groove where the keyway was cut. This lifts uf the front edge of the key and won'tlet your prop slide all the way forward and sit on the taper properly as it jamms the very front edge of the key into the prop keyway and all your torque is being transmitted thru the key into the shaft.
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KRoundy
Platinum Member Joined: August-23-2010 Location: Lake Stevens Status: Offline Points: 1702 |
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Your prop is not on correctly in that video.
Your boat and mine are awfully similar. I purchased a 422 and am very pleased with the performance. Great power out of the hole and good top-end speed. Here's a link from the FAQ: Proper Prop Installation |
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Previous: 1993 Electric Blue/Charcoal Ski Nautique
Current: 2016 Ski Nautique 200 Open Bow |
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JPASS
Grand Poobah Joined: June-17-2013 Location: Orlando Status: Offline Points: 2283 |
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The castle nut was loose enough to remove by hand. The prop pulled right off with no effort at all. Definitely not seated properly.
I have some valve lapping compound and will lap everything together. I still cannot post pics, so I can't show you the keyway and key. I took some quick vids and will post as soon as they upload to YouTube. |
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'92 Correctcraft Ski Nautique
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JPASS
Grand Poobah Joined: June-17-2013 Location: Orlando Status: Offline Points: 2283 |
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'92 Correctcraft Ski Nautique
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JPASS
Grand Poobah Joined: June-17-2013 Location: Orlando Status: Offline Points: 2283 |
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So I lapped the crap outta everything and it fits much better. Took quite a few whacks with a piece of wood and mallet to get it off after the first dry fit without the key.
When I put the key back it was about flush with the end of the prop before I cranked on the nut. I tightened everything as tight as I could by hand. There's very little play (almost none really). Front of prop lined up with my tape mark. Still need to get another cotter pin. I'm assuming it's safe to loosen the castle nut enough to line up the holes as opposed to trying to tighten it up to get the holes to line up. Nautique has cotter pins, but they are closed when I get off work. Wondering if Ace carries SS cotter pins? Anyone know? Am I good to go with my install? |
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'92 Correctcraft Ski Nautique
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baitkiller
Platinum Member Joined: October-11-2011 Location: SW Florida Status: Offline Points: 1693 |
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Any hardware store (not home improvement store) will have SS pins as will NAPA.
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Jesus was a bare-footer.............
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backfoot100
Platinum Member Joined: January-03-2007 Location: United States Status: Offline Points: 1897 |
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Loosening the castle nut to get the cotter in is standard practice. You don't really have to tighten them that tight either. As long as it's seated right the prop will tighten itself to the prop shaft.
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When people run down to the lake to see what's making that noise, you've succeeded.
Eddie |
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JPASS
Grand Poobah Joined: June-17-2013 Location: Orlando Status: Offline Points: 2283 |
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Awesome. I can still see the ramp portion of the key-way on the strut side of the prop. I'm assuming this is normal.
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'92 Correctcraft Ski Nautique
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63 Skier
Grand Poobah Joined: October-06-2006 Location: Concord, NH Status: Offline Points: 4269 |
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You probably already know, but to save you a toe or knock on the forehead, leave the castle nut on a few turns so when the prop lets go it stays on the shaft rather than flying into thin air. Sounds like you're good to go! Now back to your prop selection decision ..... |
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'63 American Skier - '98 Sport Nautique
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MrMcD
Grand Poobah Joined: January-28-2014 Location: Folsom, CA Status: Offline Points: 3734 |
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Sounds like you made good progress, it should be quieter and smoother properly seated. I have run your prop, a OJ 14x16 4 blade and recently a 224 Acme 4 blade, with the 310 HP Pro Boss GT40 in our Ski Nautique I like the 224 the best but have not yet tried a 422. The 4 blades seem smoother than the 3 blade and acceleration is better while top speed is similar.
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JPASS
Grand Poobah Joined: June-17-2013 Location: Orlando Status: Offline Points: 2283 |
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I'm going to keep an eye out for an ACME 422
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'92 Correctcraft Ski Nautique
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63 Skier
Grand Poobah Joined: October-06-2006 Location: Concord, NH Status: Offline Points: 4269 |
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Me too! I'm running a 1442 on my Sport but want to try the 422 after reading Mark's comments on it.
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'63 American Skier - '98 Sport Nautique
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KRoundy
Platinum Member Joined: August-23-2010 Location: Lake Stevens Status: Offline Points: 1702 |
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Remember to take your old cotter pin with you to Ace to make sure you purchase the correct size.
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Previous: 1993 Electric Blue/Charcoal Ski Nautique
Current: 2016 Ski Nautique 200 Open Bow |
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JPASS
Grand Poobah Joined: June-17-2013 Location: Orlando Status: Offline Points: 2283 |
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way ahead of you, but thanks for the reminder. I always bring the old part, or at least a pic, when hitting the stores for a replacement. |
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'92 Correctcraft Ski Nautique
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tjca77
Groupie Joined: April-29-2014 Location: Dunwoody Status: Offline Points: 54 |
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Just saw a used 422 for sale over on planet. Here is the link if you are interested.
http://www.planetnautique.com/vb3/showthread.php?t=29880 |
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JPASS
Grand Poobah Joined: June-17-2013 Location: Orlando Status: Offline Points: 2283 |
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New cotter pin installed. Had to back the nut off a hair, but it's hardly finger tight. Too loose?
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'92 Correctcraft Ski Nautique
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8122pbrainard
Grand Poobah Joined: September-14-2006 Location: Three Lakes Wi. Status: Offline Points: 41045 |
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The nut DOESN'T hold the prop on. It's a properly fit taper. I've had boats with NO prop nut and the prop is still fine!!! Lap it to the shaft!!
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JPASS
Grand Poobah Joined: June-17-2013 Location: Orlando Status: Offline Points: 2283 |
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I understand that Pete. Just making sure. I also understand the prop will tighten when I put it in the water first time after reinstalling prop.
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'92 Correctcraft Ski Nautique
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