Winterizing A PCM GT40

Because it'll feel good to run it at least once. Also, I'll feel much better knowing that I have fresh antifreeze in it when it's -20 this winter ($40 is cheap insurance). I have ball valves at all drain locations so it doesn't take much time either.

I hate to admit it, but I'm pulling the boat out this weekend to run it for the first and only time this season (Yes, it's still winterized from last season). As soon as I'm done I'll be draining the water, and pulling antifreeze back through and fogging. Let me not forgot to mention that this will all be done in the driveway too, so the boat won't even see the lake this year..... What a shame...

got it all painted today can start pulling all the tape off tomorrow and get my garage back. Then another day of drying and it can start to go back together.

I tried our Florida members way of winterizing last winter. Think I'll try it again this year but with a different boat to make sure it works with different engine manufacturers.

I imagine Pete's are already put away

jbear wrote: yup...August 30th and we have our 1st 'winterizing thread'

I know really... depressing ain't it?

jbear wrote: yup...August 30th and we have our 1st 'winterizing thread' now..what were we sayin' about those gators? Haha! Florida winterizing means one bag of ice instead of two, and possibly a sweatshirt. john

Drain all 5 plugs & refill with antifreeze (pour into T stat hose) is a good method. No special hoses involved.

Ok I have just gone from carbed 85' 2001 to EFI 97' gt40 . I used to just drain water and open a few water passages and a gallon of anti freeze. Do I need to do the bucket method or is it the same? I just want be sure since I got the boat on the cheap from bad winterizing ..

There are probably 8,000,000 threads on this but since nobody bit after letting it marinate last night I'll just summarize.

GT40 winterization is the same as the carb'd version of the engine other than NOT fogging through the intake.

Block drains on either side of the block itself, one or the other may be used for heater or shower hoses. Drain both block drains probing for scale/buildup with a wire or pick.

Drain at the bottom of the cast metal "U" feeding the water circ pump in front

Drains on the back of both exhaust manifolds

Empty water strainer

Blow water out of heater core by literally blowing into one hose and noting the water/air coming out of the other. Then I usually funnel in some AF and blow that through. I have quick release fittings for my heater supply and return hoses (from garden hose section of Ace or HD/Lowes) that make this a snap.

I usually put 2-3 gallons of PG Antifreeze into a bucket and suck that into the motor with a 1" hose connected to the input side of the trans cooler. Some just leave it dry, YMMV, I do it just because.

I pull all 8 spark plugs, fog each cylinder with spray fogging oil w/the straw on the nozzle, then rotate the crank a few rotations with the front crank bolt, then replace all 8 plugs and wires.

Hello everyone, I recently joined this website although I have been a visitor for many years. This summer I became the owner of a 99 SN which I posted to the diaries page the other day. I have grown up around I/O's and winterized them since I was a teenager. I am looking for some pointers (pics or videos if possible) on how to properly winterize my GT40 and also assistance with the hot/cold water shower and driver seat heater which I assume has some type of heat exchanger as there are hoses which run from the heater back to the engine. I have read some of the forums on winterization but have not found any so far which specifically refer to the GT40 engine or how to properly winterize the shower or heater. I have also read a couple posts about clearing the speedo lines with something around 25 PSI of pressure. Any assistance would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks, dano