Shaft Coupling Removal Issue

Ok, trying to remove the coupling and what a PITA So far I am able to move the coupling little less than half way from the shaft. As I was cranking on the bolts evenly, I notice transmission oil dripping from the inner transmission seal. Do I have a problem? Is my seal shot? Do appreciate it. Thanks

Edit: when I released all bolts and cleaned up the oil, no more drips and seal looks good.







(I rotated the transmission coupling, leaking at bottom)



(I rotated the transmission coupling, leaking at bottom)

Kostas N
84N2001

Ok, spoke with skidim and told me to keep an eye on it since it stopped leaking, that's good.

Now, I was able to get the coupling out but ended up damaging it when trying to install it back onto the shaft. I believe I know the issue......I was trying to install the coupling with the key in place on the shaft. I was able to get 3/4 of the coupling onto the shaft but no luck with the rest. I did heat up the coupling for one hour at 500 degrees and placed an ice pack on the shaft. Now, question? Shouldn't I be installing the coupling on the shaft all the way and then drive the key? Let me know, do appreciate. Going to order a new coupling from skidim tomorrow thanks

Kostas N
84SN2001

Well I am at round 2 of this with no success

I had the new coupler in the oven for 2 hours at 550 degrees and was unable to slide the coupler onto the drive shaft. I even had ice on the drive shaft thinking that would work.

Going to trying one more time tonight without ice and if it does not slide on then I will either scrap the shaft & coupling or sell if anyone is interested.

Running out of patience

Kostas,

In the spring I removed the drive shaft from the coupler to replace my strut bushings and replace the packing on the rudder and the drive shaft.

When I went to reinstall the coupler I used a propane out door cooker. Half a beer was more than enuf to get the coupler really HOT! I picked it up with a pair of pliers and up into the boat, with a pair of heavy welding gloves the coupler slid right on with the key in place no problem. It was probably too hot as I could feel my hands burning thru the gloves! But the shaft and coupler are tight! Just another approach! Good luck!

John

Well the 3rd attemp was no good I believe its not getting hot enough, electric oven at 550 degrees. Unfortunately I do not have a freezer larger enough for the drive shaft.

John, I remeber you telling me that at Tims. My buddy has a deep frier cooker that I will give it a final try.

I just want to be able to look back and see my new 540 prop on

Below are some pictures of the drive shaft and the new coupler. Only was able to get it about a 1/4".

Thanks for your input, appreciate it.

Having the Shaft and Coupling clean and burr free is very important.
The clearance on this interference fit is smaller than zero. Anything that sticks up will bugger up your install. Take really fine emery cloth and make sure the finish is smooth on the shaft and the coupler inside surface. Do not sand it or you will reduce your interference fit.
Just smooth any rough spots or high spots.
Your picture shows damage or gauling on the shaft and coupler.
You will need to smooth that back out. On install it needs to be one smooth move. Once the hot coupler touches heat transfers quickly and the shaft will grow locking you in place. You have to be faster than the heat transfer. Should be 1-5 second install.
Make sure the key is fitted both to the shaft and the coupler, if the key is tight you will not win. The key cant be tight or sloppy.
The one hour in the oven might work but I would use a gas stove top or even a coleman stove to heat the coupler, set it on direct flame, it will heat in 4 or 5 minutes, Best of luck.

I'd break out the Weber grill,but there isn't going to be a next time for me,I'd get an A.R.E. set up. But at least you would be right next to the boat,no need to run thru the house heading toward the boat and cooling the coupler as you go

I would be willing to bet that your shaft has been replaced before, and its a few thousands off from the factory one..After some heat and ice or freezer time u shouldnt be struggling with it like you have been. Its and interference fit so after expanding the new collar with heat and somewhat shrinking the shaft with freezer and still no go... than the diameters are deff too far apart imop.

baitkiller wrote: Need one of Petes fancy measuring tool thingies.

Agree! We need Pete to start posting again

I was so pissed off at the hassle it was to remove the coupling and then having read beforehand this business of heating/cooling things that I opted for one of these:
split coupling
Took the shaft and coupling to a machine shop and they trued them together and also declared the shaft straight on arrival.

I also went for one of these to avoid any hassles with shaft packing:
shaft log

It's always nice when the wife helps with your shaft.

Running and spinning a New 540!!!!!!   Yeah Buddy!!!!

Well I finally installed the 540 prop today Thanks to Pete's "proper prop installation" and Eric's "alignment" forum topics

Of course I did come up with an issue After installing the new prop, I notice the prop is now touching the trailer. I took off the new prop and installed the old and it clears the trailer little more than a 1/4". Sooooo after some thinking, could I lower the rear of the trailer support to get atiquite clearance? Was thinking 3/4" stainless steel plates under the rail where the rear support bolts up. Any concerns??

Thanks everyone
Kostas N
84SN2001

You did the cotter pin wrong.

The prop-hull clearance picture doesn't make any sense, you're not measuring the largest diameter which is at the blade tip (where it also hits the trailer).

I have an 88 trailer and 540 and my clearance is quite minimal. The 84 trailer/prop guard might be naturally closer and/or your boat may be further forward than it should. 3/4" spacer is probably overkill. You'll never have less clearance than you do now so even minimal would be sufficient. I'd be comfortable with as little as 1/4". Can't say I know my clearance off the top of my head.

Thanks guys.....

I was just snapping some pics to give you guys an idea of where the prop was positioned.

The boat normaly sits even with edge of the bunks. I do need to push the boat 2" forward to make it flush.

I was thinking a plate of some sort to give it more even surface space then just washers. I know, overkill.

Now you got me thinking about the counter pin, how did I install it wrong? Been trying to find pictures to compare. I did have to back off the nutts to allign the counter pin with the hole. Is that ok?

Thanks again!