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4v at positive coil?

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    Posted: April-11-2015 at 10:07pm
Hey Guys,
The 75 SN just quit today, and my initial test was key off, 0v at positive coil, key on, 4v at positive coil. I was expecting 12v with the key on. What should I have?
Tom
1980 Ski Nautique Boat Bar
1988 Mastercraft Tristar Open Bow
1988 Mastercraft Tristar Closed Bow
1969 Seacamper Houseboat
1986 Harris Pontoon
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote TRBenj Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: April-11-2015 at 10:18pm
No less than 8v if you're running points and a ballast resistor. Presumably you checked for fuel and spark and the spark looked weak at best?

Check the connections at the ignition switch and ballast resistor. Check voltage coming out of switch and to the resistor input as well. If those check out, try bypassing the resistor.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 8122pbrainard Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: April-11-2015 at 10:22pm
Tim's right on with checking the voltage but I suggest starting at the battery the into the ign. switch.


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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Orlando76 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: April-11-2015 at 10:54pm
Tread with caution with my .02 but try jumping from the positive side of solenoid to the coil.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote JoeinNY Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: April-11-2015 at 11:03pm
On these boats you definitely want to start with checking out the wiring and connections to and from the ignition switch before messing with the resistor.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote seacamper Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: April-12-2015 at 12:01am
I actually just pulled it home and was tired. I checked to see that the carb was spraying gas, and I did not check spark. I wanted it to be a quick fix, so I checked volts to the coil as a starter. I will go through a more methodical approach tomorrow, but I either expected to see 12v or 0v at the positive coil. Why would it be less?
1980 Ski Nautique Boat Bar
1988 Mastercraft Tristar Open Bow
1988 Mastercraft Tristar Closed Bow
1969 Seacamper Houseboat
1986 Harris Pontoon
2004 Seadoo GTX SC + Flydive Xboard
1999 Adventurecraft
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote TRBenj Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: April-12-2015 at 7:51am
Resistance
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Orlando76 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: April-12-2015 at 10:07am
I was chasing an electrical gremlin last summer/fall. Boat acted flooded but wasn't and spark was weirdly intermittent. I was questioning the electronic distributor but doubted it'd be intermittent. Ended up being the the start contact on the ignition switch wasn't up to par and letting weak juice go through. Turns out it's been weak probably ever since I bought the boat. Now it cranks like its fuel injected.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote seacamper Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: April-12-2015 at 11:37am
So here is more background. I replaced the sending unit on the gas tank. The old one was never working, and I found it was not sending accurate signal. The replacement is one that has the float that slides up and down rather than on an arm.
This was the first time we ran the tank low, counting on the gauge to be accurate. Well, I guess "Empty" is more like an eighth of a tank on the gauge. I think we simply ran it out of gas. So yesterday, I topped it off, dropped it in the water, and it still would not start. That led me to think it was electrical.
Last night when I put it in the garage, I pulled off the flame arrestor, and pumped the throttle, and got a good gas stream out of the accelerator pump. That further made me feel that it was ignition related. That is when I did a quick check of the positive coil.
This morning, I hooked up water, did a quick spark check. and had good spark. I shot some starter fluid in the carb, and "wah la". Started right up and ran good. So, I guess I pulled some gunk up from the low tank,caused enough of a blockage that it needed to fire up to create enough suction to pull the gun through the system?
Is there an internal fuel filter on the Holley carb? I have half a can of Sea Foam in the tank right now.
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1988 Mastercraft Tristar Closed Bow
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote seacamper Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: April-12-2015 at 11:39am
Originally posted by Orlando76 Orlando76 wrote:

I was chasing an electrical gremlin last summer/fall. Boat acted flooded but wasn't and spark was weirdly intermittent. I was questioning the electronic distributor but doubted it'd be intermittent. Ended up being the the start contact on the ignition switch wasn't up to par and letting weak juice go through. Turns out it's been weak probably ever since I bought the boat. Now it cranks like its fuel injected.

I will go check that out because it is an old boat.
1980 Ski Nautique Boat Bar
1988 Mastercraft Tristar Open Bow
1988 Mastercraft Tristar Closed Bow
1969 Seacamper Houseboat
1986 Harris Pontoon
2004 Seadoo GTX SC + Flydive Xboard
1999 Adventurecraft
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Bri892001 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: April-12-2015 at 12:05pm
The carb will have an inlet screen that is part of the fuel line to carb connection fitting but not an internal filter per se.

Just so we can rule out coil related issues, this isn't a situation where the boat is acting up only when the motor is warm?
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote seacamper Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: April-12-2015 at 11:16pm
Originally posted by Bri892001 Bri892001 wrote:

The carb will have an inlet screen that is part of the fuel line to carb connection fitting but not an internal filter per se.

Just so we can rule out coil related issues, this isn't a situation where the boat is acting up only when the motor is warm?

Time will tell, but the boat was not starting this morning when it was cool until I hit it with the starter fluid, then it acted fine. I am going to check the wires from the bat to the ignition to the coil and clean them all up. I had a long discussion with Backfoot this morning, and we discussed the fuel screen and the gas tank check valve. I will report back.
Tom
1980 Ski Nautique Boat Bar
1988 Mastercraft Tristar Open Bow
1988 Mastercraft Tristar Closed Bow
1969 Seacamper Houseboat
1986 Harris Pontoon
2004 Seadoo GTX SC + Flydive Xboard
1999 Adventurecraft
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