Stuck Federal Prop?

Prop pullers are a sore subject for me. Before I made my own, I used one of those small propane torches to heat the prop. I direct the flame on the hub (for several minutes). It would make a "popping" sound and slide right off. Sometimes, to give it a little "encouragement" I would tap it with a ball peen hammer. This causes some discoloration of the prop, may have some other adverse effects on the shaft and the strut bushing, but it does get the prop off. Another thing, leave the prop nut just on the end of the shaft so the prop doesn't just fall off the shaft.

I have had pleny of success with the "c" clamp looking prop pullers. Good ones run as low as $60.00. I have built several but found that the geometry must be precise or the puller itself does not work.

I don't have a brand name for you, but I do have a warning. A prop puller for a 4 blade prop should work for the 3 blade as well. A prop puller for a 3 blade prop, may not work on a 4 blade. If the puller is too wide, it won't fit between the blades of the 4 blade prop. BKH

The top one here is the one I have http://www.boatdesigns.com/products.asp?dept=624
Works good on my CC Mustang and a Shamrock, but I don't think it will fit a 4 blade

I have used pullers as much as 1/2" wide on four and three blade props. If I were to buy one it would be from ACME because it is forged steel 3/8" thick with stainless bolt. IMHO.

I've used a couple different types of pullers and like the plate style puller the best.
If the prop is really stuck on there hard, tighten the puller as tight as you can and leave it overnight. Come back to it the next day and go at it again. That method worked twice for me.
Good luck
-Brad

79Tique wrote: I'm looking at the two on boatdesigns.com (I don't want to sepend a over $100 for the Acme)should I go for the plate type or the "C" clamp one. The tap with the hammer method described with the C-Clamp one sounds effective, but folks seem to like the plate style better. Suggestions?

I'll agree that the Acme is very nice. Its over $100 because it is only included in a kit that adds a prop carrying case, an adjustable wrench, plus a spare lock nut, cotter pin and key. IMO, for $30 extra the kit is a good buy.

If you only want the puller, there is one at Delta Propellor for $74 before our 5% discount.

I agree with M3fan. I have an Ironman that I got from SKIDIM and it works awesome. I liked it so much that I got another one for my brother-in-law for a Xmas present. It is a heavy one and the fact that the head swivels won't ruin the end of the driveshaft or anything else.

The Ironman is less than 100 bucks as well. Good choice unless you want to make a monster like the one in picture above.

79Tique...did you try spraying it with something like (PB-BLASTER) that stuff can unfreeze anything, and its cheeper then a puller.

The Ironman puller got the prop off. Now I'm putting the new Acme on and it seems to sit on the shaft nice. I spun it around on the shaft and it snugs up tight, the slots for the key line up well.
How do you go about putting the key back in? I want to do this right so I don't bugger things up. Any other tricks or details I should know about?

Thanks for the help,
Gabe

Did you set the prop all the way on to the shaft then push the key in? What's easy? Pushing by hand or tapping with a hammer? Mine does not seem even close to pushing in by hand. Might even be hard to drive in with a hammer.

79Tique wrote: Pushing by hand or tapping with a hammer? Mine does not seem even close to pushing in by hand.

Do not use a hammer. If you can't get it on by hand something is wrong. Take it off and try again. Make sure the key is not already sitting high up on the shaft, I have success if it slides a little of the way up with the prop.

OK no hammer. I think I need a new key as this old one seems way too tight and it's ugly. I may try grinding it down but if they don't cost much then I'll order a new one. The weather here just got real cold -5 at night and 10F in the afternoon. Too cold to work on the boat so I have the time to wait for the part. I like the snow around in the winter but this sucks!

I think I read where someone buys 1/4"x1/4" bra$$ bar stock and makes his keys from that.

The New 542 is on and seems to fit great. Pleanty of clearance, and went on easy following everyone's advice. I put a new castle nut from Acme on with the new key. Does any one have experience with the newer style nylock nut on the older CC boats that came with the castle nuts?