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Distributor Stuck - Yuck

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Hollywood Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: June-07-2016 at 1:08pm
12720 is for a Chevy

M = marine
35820 = 351W 7,000 RPM
RR = reverse rotation gear
BL = blue color cap
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Jonny Quest Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: June-07-2016 at 3:00pm
Thanks HW
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote TracyB Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: June-08-2016 at 5:24pm
Thanks for the info. I recently purchased a '72 Promo that needs a little more work than the seller let on. This seems like a great site, I'm sure I'll be spending a lot of time on here researching.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote TRBenj Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: June-08-2016 at 5:30pm
Pictures please!
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote TracyB Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: June-09-2016 at 10:48am

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote TracyB Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: June-09-2016 at 10:53am
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote gun-driver Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: June-09-2016 at 11:01am
WOW these things are starting to become a dime a dozen they're starting to pop up everywhere.

Nice looking ride.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote JoeinNY Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: June-09-2016 at 11:10am
Very cool boat, hope to get me one at some point... definitely been worked on though. Maybe get a bit more info on that carb... not stock and the gas line to it is not up to marine spec so it may also not be a marine unit.   What is wrong with your distributor now?   The dui is a good unit but with a boat like that you might want to consider going more towards a stock look as you replace things I wouldn't get to anal about it but if you are buying parts you might as well go in the direction that gives the greatest payback.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 8122pbrainard Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: June-09-2016 at 12:15pm
Tracy,
Nice!! I agree with Joe. Do keep it as close to original as possible and do check the carb for it being a marine as well as the fuel line from the pump to the carb.


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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote shierh Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: June-09-2016 at 12:22pm
Recommended you change graphics from black to medium(gator) blue and make proper boat.   
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote TracyB Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: June-09-2016 at 12:27pm
Thanks for the input, I'll have to check on the carb. Never really been an Edelbrock fan anyways. It has waht appears to be the original distributor in it. Points and condenser look new as well as the rotor and cap. The engine stalls and will not restart once it gets up to temperature. The coil is extremely hot to the touch. I don't believe it to be a fuel issue, I can see it pulsing in the filter while the engine is turning over. Choke is working properly too.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Hollywood Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: June-09-2016 at 12:28pm
Sure sounds like you have a wiring issue. Where's the ballast resistor?
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote GottaSki Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: June-09-2016 at 12:31pm
I concur, appears what could be plugged vacuum ports, suggesting non-marine.
The plastic, pressurized fuel filter also makes me twitch

Otherwise, very nice ride
"There is nothing, absolutely nothing, half so much worthwhile as messing around with boats...simply messing."

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote TracyB Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: June-09-2016 at 12:35pm
It's mounted on the rear of the engine. There's a plate with the resistor, voltage regulator, and solenoid. I can't stand working on a dirty engine, so my first thing was to pressure wash everything, strip it down to the block, sand blast everything and paint it. This is what I started with.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Hollywood Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: June-09-2016 at 12:39pm
So is the resistor wired prior to feeding the coil? Either the coil is bad by itself or it's getting 12V when it shouldn't be (resistor bypassed). No reason for it to get hot.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote TracyB Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: June-09-2016 at 12:49pm
It appears to be wired up per the schematic, 3 wires on one side and 1 on the other, colors also matching the schematic. I haven't checked voltage yet or resistance and thought about replacing the coil too. I just figured I might as well get everything clean looking before I get it running. I didn't want to get it running, then tear it apart for cleaning and painting.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote TracyB Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: June-09-2016 at 12:52pm
Also discovered one riser was completely shot and alternator was not charging ( brush holder is cracked). These should arrive in the mail today so I can get it back together this weekend and do some testing in the driveway this time instead of the lake. I hate asking people for a tow.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Hollywood Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: June-09-2016 at 12:53pm
What schematic? A lot could have happened since 1972. Better make sure it's a 12V ignition feed, choke and exciter as those 3 wires on one side of the resistor. Then coil feed out the other end.

Tim's diagram isn't entirely accurate since the choke and exciter don't always go directly on the resistor post. You could be just sharing the post for coil bypass instead of putting in a butt connector (swap eye from one side to the other).

Check your coil, it's probably fried.


If you're just going to be using the boat to cruise around I wouldn't drop the money on a DUI. They sure are nice and easily reversible to "stock" at any time.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote TracyB Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: June-09-2016 at 1:14pm
Plan is now to disconnect everything, do point to point checks on the wiring, check resistor, and probably just replace the coil. I could see a winding opening up as the coil gets got, right ?

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote TracyB Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: June-09-2016 at 1:27pm
The DUI was really more of a reliability thing for me. I've been boating for a long time and have always taken pride in not being stranded on the water. This thing has left me out there twice now. It is pricey though. Not sure why the RH is $75 more than the LH though.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Hollywood Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: June-09-2016 at 1:31pm
Good plan. Don't follow that firing order though!

You should be looking for 1.5 ohm total resistance for points, any combination of ballast resistor and coil.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Duane in Indy Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: June-09-2016 at 1:51pm
Originally posted by TracyB TracyB wrote:

The DUI was really more of a reliability thing for me. I've been boating for a long time and have always taken pride in not being stranded on the water. This thing has left me out there twice now. It is pricey though. Not sure why the RH is $75 more than the LH though.


Gear cost
Reuse your old gear.    Both distributors turn the same direction. CCW looking down from top.
Keep it as original as YOU want it
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote TracyB Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: June-09-2016 at 2:01pm
I had read that in another post about reusing the old gear. My only concern would be the shaft diameter. Are they the same ?
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote TracyB Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: June-18-2016 at 1:38am
Sorry for the delay guys, had a dreadful work conference at Lake Lanier Resorts in GA. Kids had fun but would have been nice to bring the boat. Anyways, I had the chance to stop at Performance Distributors in Memphis during the drive and they said the gears would match up fine. I'm going to order the DUI tomorrow and also take 8122pbrainard's advice and replace the carb with a marine Holley.....it's a $ setback but should pay out in the long run. I'll keep all original parts for the future if needed. GottaSki had mentioned something about the downstream fuel filter that I had not thought of and does make sense. Problem is, upon inspection it was full of rust. I replaced both filters, before and after fuel pump, and will monitor until I think the tank is clean and then replace the downstream line without the filter. I really think this is a combination of spark and fuel, I'm a maintenance manager and hate throwing parts at stuff to fix it, but I'm also ready to have some reliable boating time. I'll let you know how it turns out next week. Also have some restoration ideas / questions I'd like to throw out there once I get the thing running reliably. Thanks for all the info and help.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote TRBenj Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: June-18-2016 at 10:09am
It is not appropriate to have a fuel filter after the pump.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 8122pbrainard Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: June-18-2016 at 10:50am
Originally posted by GottaSki GottaSki wrote:

The plastic, pressurized fuel filter also makes me twitch
Originally posted by TRBenj TRBenj wrote:

It is not appropriate to have a fuel filter after the pump.

I notice you did mention getting rid of the filter on the high pressure side of the pump but I suggest doing that ASAP before you have a big problem. I'd hate to see that great looking boat go up in smoke!


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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote TracyB Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: June-18-2016 at 3:57pm
I know, I'll do it. I just keep finding little things on here that are "half-ass" repairs. And that's being nice. I put two new batteries on it, wired them up in parallel and still occasionally the thing wouldn't start. It also has a new starter and I replaced all of the terminals. Anyways, I found the neutral switch had wood screws in the terminals,lol. This is what I'm dealing with. I'm just gonna go from top to bottom and replace anything that is questionable now. I'm sure I'll have more in it than I can get back, but at this point it's become personal.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote TracyB Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: June-18-2016 at 5:08pm
Changing the fluids today, parts should be in Tuesday. Pulled both heat exchangers, 1st was full of leaves.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote TracyB Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: July-11-2016 at 8:36pm


Sorry guys, I work at a power plant and summer is busy time at work in the south. Anyways, finished was as seen. I had it out and ran like a scalded ape , until the oil cooler line broke....argh....I had it in my hand too to replace but NAPA was closed, cutting corners. Anyways, engine is out being rebuilt, not too much damage, caught it as soon as it started knocking. However, someone else on here was familiar with this boat and had concerns about the PO putting plywood down for the flooring. Since the engine was out, I pulled the carpet and plywood but it doesn't appear to be too bad, I'll post some pics. My question is,, if I CPES and L&L the floor for now, followed with some Bilgekote, What do I do about the gaps behind the engine and under the seat ? Nailers, with plywood doors and hinges ?
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote TracyB Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: July-11-2016 at 8:40pm
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