Coil over heating

So I can currently take my 1982 SN 2001 out for about 30minutes before the coil overheats, swap for another coill and get anothe 30 minutes. This is with the resistor removed, With mallory 700 resistor 0.75-1.5 ohm in circuit the boat will not run properly and struggle to start and when started will eventually stall, boat starts fine with no resistor

I have a mallory e spark ignition

I bought a 1.5 ohm flame thrower coil which shouldnt need a resistor, it ran fine for 3o minutes then instantly cut out, this coil in now fried, a bit annoying as should be ok without a resistor.

One thing i have noticed is the voltage gauge on the dash is reading about 12 volts when turned on, but about 15volts after running for 30 minutes or so is this correct?

I have orderd another resistor thinking of putting 2 in parallel to half the resistance. but this should be required and is covering whatever the root cause is

Any help pleeeeaaasee

Put the stock ballast resistor back in so coil only gets 9V and enjoy a trouble free summer.

this coil is no longer made but will not over heat no matter what voltage , watch ebay     http://www.ebay.com/itm/Mallory-Ignition-Promaster-Coil-29440-D7022-A2F6-292-/282064674172?hash=item41ac5d5d7c:g:i4sAAOSwnFZXWyB5&vxp=mtr

Well maybe the unit I just pulled out wasn't a Mallory? Didn't have a have a ground wire and then just black=green. My eyes are still good perhaps my lack of reading is the problem? Mallory seem to be wired like Pertonix, plus a ground jumper. Mallory green = Pertonix black. Now it seems more likely it was a Pertonix but definitely in a Mallory distributor.

gun-driver wrote: KENO wrote: a built in resistor. KenO Key words here You either need a resisted coil or an inline resistor (ballast resistor).

Eh, I looked up Ken's coil and it's only 1.4 ohms. Factory Prestolite coil is 1.5 and still uses a resistor. Now you tell me which coil is internally resisted or not...

Bottom line is modules want a certain resistance and not all coils are built the same.

Well, as compared to their 0.7 ohm coil it's got more internal resistance

And.....it works

The best description of an e spark is "it's funky looking" under the cap.

Must be something about points that want 2+ ohms resistance. Prestolite coil weak AF if it needs a resistor in front. Seem to be plenty of claims of overheated stock coils after installing brand x EI module. I haven not personally used this PCM coil in any application. Probably just a rebranded Prestolite.

robbied wrote: What resistance is the stock resistor?

.7 - .8

robbied wrote: Ok does anybody know what the purple wire that goes to the resistor from the voltage regulator us for?

It's your 12v from the key switch

Hollywood wrote: robbied wrote: What resistance is the stock resistor? .7 - .8 Ok that makes a lot of sense. Those resistors are not available in the uk I don't think does anyone have a part number robbied wrote: Ok does anybody know what the purple wire that goes to the resistor from the voltage regulator us for? It's your 12v from the key switch

Ok but what does the regulator do with it internally?

Ok so which wire senses the voltage so as to limit overvoltage

Hollywood wrote: EW GROSS. Looks like Johnny's boat had a Pertronix all along. It's in a box in the garage right now but I'll be sure to take it out of the box and put in the garbage when I get home. Had I known this we would have done the DUI swap LONG ago... Sure doesn't look funky like this

Hey Hollywood

On your way to the garbage you can ship it to me instead(kinda like that water pump you want Cambodia to ship to you. )

Looks like you had a crappy Pete-tronics and didn't know it. Probably worked just fine. Got a few boats in the family and one of them has a Mallory that came with a Pete-tronics module in it. Figured we'd use it till it died, it's been a number of years and we're still using it It just keeps on going and going like the energizer bunny..

BTW I've always known a stock ballast resistor to be about 1.2 or 1.3 ohms, there are a couple threads here on CCF about that from quite a few years ago. I seem to remember an Echlin ICR23 cross referencing to a stock resistor

KenO

PS Hurry home

Hollywood wrote: Most of the boats I'm in still have resistors, I should take some measurements. I'll send you the module, just get me your address.

Don't know if you're kidding but it's in your PM inbox.

My Mallory e-spark module instructions specifically call for the red wire from the plug in to connect to the + terminal of the coil with the wire from the ballast resistor.

AM I Missing something here-haven't installed it yet ??????????????

Lakeview wrote: My Mallory e-spark module instructions specifically call for the red wire from the plug in to connect to the + terminal of the coil with the wire from the ballast resistor. AM I Missing something here-haven't installed it yet ??????????????

Don't know what Mallory instructions you're reading since there are numerous versions out there, but the ones I have tell you that if using a specific Mallory coil (they give 3 different coil numbers) that you don't need a ballast resistor. The one I mentioned earlier is one of those numbers.It's a 29219 coil

If you're not using one of those coils, then you should be using a resistor if you're following their instructions. Here is a link to one of the many sets of instructions
Mallory inst

Read the first part starting with "important" and then pay special attention to exception #1.

You might want to fix your question mark key too. It seems kinda sticky

If you don't have a reading of 13.5 to 13.9V at your battery the voltage regulator is not working properly. I don't know where your Voltage regulator is on your boat. All the modern boats have the voltage regulator inside the alternator, Some older models have a separate voltage regulator mounted external of the alternator. Above 13.9 you will start cooking the battery and other parts.