99 SNOB blown fuse?

By 99, they were probably done with the ballast resister. It really depends on the details of your engine.

Monty,
Yes, thanks for getting back to us confirming what the problem was. It's always a pleasure to find out the CCfan members we able to help. There are some who come on site asking for help and then we never hear back from them

Yes, I saw the reply, thanks but that is another user asking where to buy not me.
No time to order as I needed it Monday so I had to source locally. Stealership here wants $108 US for their OEM part, but when I asked what name is on the back (Mine says Texas Instruments) it was some other party's part.

For now I have a 50 amp auto parts store circuit breaker as a "make do" until I get one in from amazon $38 or ebay $35.

Blue Sea Systems, # 2142 is the brand of one I ordered.

FYI: My circuit breaker never tripped, but left me stranded twice unable to start then system would work again, so intermittent until it gave up.

Thanks again for pointing me to the problem.

8122pbrainard wrote: Does this look like the bad breaker? If not, give Skidim a call.

Just an additional point...testing on the load side of the breaker is different than testing the "hot" pin of the ignition switch. We have to include the wire as a possible problem or even the wiring harness (which there may be one between the breaker and ig switch). If you test the load side pin of the breaker, you can rule in/out the breaker itself. If you just test the ig switch it could be the breaker, harness, wire, etc.... That's ideally where the continuity test comes into play. One lead on each side of breaker, if you have continuity, breaker is probably good. then one lead on the load side of the breaker, other lead at the hot side of the ig breaker will tell you if you have a break in the wire between those two points.

Monty,
Does this look like the bad breaker? If not, give Skidim a call.

not to be petty or insulting...you are testing voltage not current. They are not the same thing (which is also different from continuity).

Think of Voltage like water pressure (always there), amp (current) is the flow once the faucet is open. Essentially you want to see ~12.6v at each of your testing sites. The VOM is completing the circuit back to the battery (neg).

The quick and easy test of the breaker is to check it's continuity, but realistically no different than what Pete said by measuring voltage on the load side of the breaker.    Checking continuity is extremely helpful when you don't know where the other end of a wire is or to see if there is a break in said wire without the need of a battery being connected. It's also used to check fuses to make sure they haven't blown.

Where are you attaching your negative lead of the VOM, Engine Block or battery?

I thought not when I checked before, but will check again. Can the 50a Circuit breaker go bad?

there is an "always hot" feed to one side of the ignition breaker switch at the panel

Yes sir, this is what I assumed, but I have no current at this location. Using a digital volt meter/multi meter.

On a 99 battery is in floor next to helm, under observer seat. Batt red is hot at rear of engine on large side Starter solenoid & at one side of 50a circuit breaker. Circuit breaker is not pop out as I tried reset it is in so I checked all + and - leads, cleaned, reattached.

Some location is preventing current to to hot side of ignition breaker switch on dash... not sure where to look.

dsquad13 wrote: so far i haven't been able to do anything because i keep it at my lake place.

Get a cheap one and then keep it at home. I think HF has them for less than $20! I always have a VOM handy. When moved up here, I ended up with 4. from one at home, one in the truck, one at work (the good one) and the one at the lake!!

dsquad13 wrote: i am also having this problem with my 89 SN. battery is good(had it tested, same with alternator) but when everything is hooked up there is no power(lights, blower etc. don't work)

Drew,
What did you find with the VOM? How far did you get from the battery before you lost power?

Here's your original post on the same problem.

don't forget about testing grounds as well. More often than not, power issues are ground related. Verify you have good ground on the engine and up under the dash.

Trouble shooting a battery/alternator/electrical issue with Ski Nautique, New battery has correct volts, but no current at the switch panel, nothing lights up or powers on when ignition button engaged? Removed screws to gain access to rear of panel to test with volt meter but no current present. Not even the large red hot lead on the ignition button switch which I assume provides power to the remainder. I assume this wire is "hot" at all times? Is there a fuse panel I cannot see?