Cutlass bearing / shaft question

Being new to direct drives just last year, I'm not really sure what to consider 'normal'. Those that remember, when I first bought the boat not only was the cutlass bearing toast, but the shaft was bent due to a very badly aligned engine. After replacing both and aligning the engine to well within spec, I remember being able to spin the prop by hand and though the cutlass was dry and obviously wouldn't spin like a well oiled needle bearing, it would to an extent free spin for a revolution or two.

Fast forward to this evening. While checking the under side of the boat I haphazardly gave the prop a spin - or at least tried.   This time the prop would not free spin. Instead it squealed and screeched, vibrating the strut in the process.   When I installed the shaft after my new installation I remember it seemed a bit tighter fit than when I installed my first new shaft last fall, but I don't remember it groaning like this when I spun it, though I do remember it being tight enough that it wouldn't spin freely.   In retrospect, I should have probably mentioned and addressed this earlier
......Now before the landslide of comments about a misaligned shaft starts, yes I did double, triple, quadruple check the alignment - from the strut to the log and from the log to the engine coupler, using a brace about half way between the strut and log to make sure it didn't bow.

So the question here is if this is within the norm or is the cutlass bearing too snug on the shaft and if it isn't normal what is the best way to handle it?

As always, thanks in advance

EDIT:   Forgot to mention that I wet the shaft & cutlass down thoroughly and gave it a spin which eliminated the squealing, but I could still tell it seemed very snug and wouldn't free spin more than a full revolution or so.

MrMcD wrote: It might be worth loosening the 4 bolts on the prop shaft and make sure your alignment has not shifted.    Mark

Joe,
I agree, it wouldn't hurt to take a look.

Awesome, that's what I needed to know. I didn't realize there were different materials used for the cutlass bearing. When I replaced the bearing last fall it was a 2-piece set. After the accident the entire strut was replaced with a new OEM and I'm sure it came with the factory 1-piece bearing so a difference in materials could easily explain this new noise and apparent resistance. But I'll recheck the alignment when I get back in town to be sure.
Thanks!   

I agree with Mt. man
If you have the one piece rubber as I do it’s harder to turn I usually use a shot of WD 40 to spin it.
Do that first then if it’s still abnormal investigate further.

Yes, I'm a nit-picky old, fat, bald guy, but the term "cutless" or "cutlass" was a brand name for a bearing. These bearings are correctly called: "strut bearings" or "stave bearings". Just sayin...

JQ

"spin freely" ?? I've never seen a prop on a S.N. "spin freely"...meaning, give it a flick and it'll continue to spin...my prop I can "turn" with one or two fingers, but it doesn't continue to spin if I stop turning it.

Stave .... Cutless/ cutlass .... learn something every day on this site!

But by 'freely' I wasn't meaning that it would just coast for a while or something - guess I didn't really explain with the correct words. So far many folks have indicated that while it won't spin 'free' as if it was a machined needle bearing, they can spin their prop with just a finger or two 'easily' .... maybe that's the word I should have chosen. And this is more what I was referring to - the fact that I would have to grab the prop with both hands and 'break' it free first, then use quite a bit of force with my whole hand to get it to turn at all.   
"One or two fingers" ..... Not a chance - probably would end up with a nasty cut.
But again that was with a dry, rubber stave bearing (see what I did there - we'll get that back in use before long) When wet the prop would turn much easier, and with two fingers just still with a bit more force that I remember.