Winterizing A PCM GT40 |
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spiralhelix ![]() Senior Member ![]() Joined: August-06-2014 Location: IL/WI Status: Offline Points: 496 |
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Thanks to Keno's excellent scientific methods, we have this experiment to fully understand what the outcome may be without draining all the water out of the block before filling with antifreeze.
I am a personal fan of the pour in method as during my process it is actually faster than using the bucket. I leave the drain plugs out and start pouring. Then as the block fills some AF will get the remaining bits of water out, and I'll plug that drain. Continue to pour until the next drain location gets AF and plug. Do the same thing with the exhaust. Unfortunately, i have had to accept that "end of season" and 1 week old means early winterization for me too this year. ![]() side note: i didn't see Keno's post over on the Boat Maintenance FAQ, maybe it could get added over there as it is such an excellent resource during these winterizing discussions. |
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-Spiral
'89 Sport Nautique |
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rwittmer ![]() Newbie ![]() ![]() Joined: June-11-2018 Location: CANADA Status: Offline Points: 39 |
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Hi Spiral,
Thank's for the information. I stopped by my Correct Craft dealer and I asked the Mechanic how they winterize my 92 Nautique? He told me that since they are extremely busy they do not use the drain plug method. Basically he showed me a container with about 20 gallons or so of AntiFreeze. They draw the AF using the water pump from the boat (inlet hose attached to another hose sucking the AF from this container). He said you just have to make sure you run the engine long enough for the thermostat to open. I have a driver's heater and he told me that is no problem as the AF will go throughout the engine and lines. Then he fogs the carburator and changes the oil and filter. That's about it and that's the best way to do it. Yes it's true you will need a large supply of antifreeze but still seems easy enough. What do you think about this method? Anyone else ever tried this method? Thanks, Rene |
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Rene Wittmer
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spiralhelix ![]() Senior Member ![]() Joined: August-06-2014 Location: IL/WI Status: Offline Points: 496 |
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Well, this is a tough call. I guess it boils down to personal preference. Without getting into too much detail, I scoured this site before my first winterizing and kept track of EVERY step people take. Some processes were different than others, omitting or changing order of some parts. My conclusion from the research was that as long as you get basically ALL water out of the engine to prevent it from expanding and cracking the block, you are probably pretty safe. Anything else you do is whether you thinks its necessary or want to do the absolute most to keep your boat in tip-top shape. I guess the point of posting that link that Keno made was to show that by not draining the water, you for sure will be diluting the AF and lowering it's protection ability. Will that lead to the engine being ruined? probably not, but that's your call/gamble. Personally I warm up the engine and change the oil first, so there is fresh oil in there. Other people would rather change in the spring. Some fog the carb and let the engine suck it into the chambers, i prefer to do it manually into each cylinder. As I said before, i believe it comes down to personal preference.
Best way seems pretty subjective. Plenty of people have done things in various ways all with success. Some people have used successful ways with utter failure. The bucket/pull method does seem to waste more AF overall, and Im frugal (ok cheap) and don't want to spend more $$ on stuff if i don't have to. Pouring it in is like 2.5 gallons. I'd say i can generally winterize my boat (with everything) in about 30-45 min. Depends on if I want an excuse to not work on anything else ![]() |
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-Spiral
'89 Sport Nautique |
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TRBenj ![]() Grand Poobah ![]() ![]() Joined: June-29-2005 Location: NWCT Status: Offline Points: 21207 |
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Overly complex and less than ideal. Requires green (toxic) AF since the marine stuff isn’t meant to be diluted. You waste a lot and you need to drain in the spring rather than simply blow out the back. You also need to continuously test the dilution% to be sure block has adequate freeze protection.
Bad idea for a 1-off. Just drain it first. |
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8122pbrainard ![]() Grand Poobah ![]() ![]() Joined: September-14-2006 Location: Three Lakes Wi. Status: Offline Points: 41045 |
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Rene,
It sure sounds like you are against removing some drain plugs, disconnecting some hoses and then pouring some antifreeze in the block. Have you ever used a refractometer before? If you do the pump through, then I highly recommend using one. Good luck. |
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rwittmer ![]() Newbie ![]() ![]() Joined: June-11-2018 Location: CANADA Status: Offline Points: 39 |
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I have to admit that I'm just worried to make a mistake and have a problem. But I have to agree the drain plugs seem very logical and way more environmental friendly.
So I have decide to use the drain plug method. At the same time I will remove my impeller and replace it for next spring. I appreciate everyone's comments and suggestions, Thank you, Rene |
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Rene Wittmer
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Gary S ![]() Grand Poobah ![]() ![]() Joined: November-30-2006 Location: Illinois Status: Offline Points: 14096 |
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What did I say when you asked the question??? This is against Pleasurecraft Marine's own instructions in the engine's owners manual |
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Dreaming ![]() Platinum Member ![]() ![]() Joined: May-21-2010 Location: Tacoma, WA Status: Offline Points: 1870 |
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Rene - I would suggest that you leave the impeller out until spring... Taking the impeller out for replacement keeps it from getting stuck and taking a set over the course of the winter. Also gives you a chance to inspect everything again before putting it in the water.
I agree on the drain method for water passages. After that, you can re-fill. I purchased my boat after it froze, and aside from the very attractive purchase price, $3500 and a bunch of work to get that new engine up to speed was a real hassle in the spring when I'd rather have been skiing... One other fun trick, when you take your oil filter off, use a 1 gallon ziplock bag around the bottom so that you don't spill any oil on the carpet ![]() |
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63 Skier ![]() Grand Poobah ![]() ![]() Joined: October-06-2006 Location: Concord, NH Status: Offline Points: 4293 |
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PULL THE DRAIN PLUGS. IT MAKES ABSOLUTELY NO SENSE TO NOT REMOVE THEM.
Not trying to be a jerk, but if you can turn the ignition key to start it you can turn the drain plugs to remove them. It's that easy. |
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'63 American Skier - '98 Sport Nautique
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SNobsessed ![]() Grand Poobah ![]() Joined: October-21-2007 Location: IA Status: Offline Points: 7102 |
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Put some plastic sheet over the carpet, save some rust stains & wet carpet.
1/2 inch breaker bar work good for the manifold plugs. |
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“Beer is proof that God loves us and wants us to be happy.”
Ben Franklin |
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rwittmer ![]() Newbie ![]() ![]() Joined: June-11-2018 Location: CANADA Status: Offline Points: 39 |
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![]() THANKS |
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Rene Wittmer
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gun-driver ![]() Grand Poobah ![]() Joined: July-18-2008 Location: Pittsburgh, Pa Status: Offline Points: 4128 |
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After 10 years of owning my GT-40 this year I found the easiest way to winterize it... I sold it
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63 Skier ![]() Grand Poobah ![]() ![]() Joined: October-06-2006 Location: Concord, NH Status: Offline Points: 4293 |
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That should work! I hope for the sake of the next owner you fogged the distributor and drained the spark plugs before you sold it. ![]() |
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'63 American Skier - '98 Sport Nautique
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Gary S ![]() Grand Poobah ![]() ![]() Joined: November-30-2006 Location: Illinois Status: Offline Points: 14096 |
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It might be worth your time to check with CQ to see if you can get your tool box deposit back...... unless your still using it that is ![]() |
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gun-driver ![]() Grand Poobah ![]() Joined: July-18-2008 Location: Pittsburgh, Pa Status: Offline Points: 4128 |
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He told me I have to personally pick up my deposit. When I asked why I had to be there in person told me to ask you.
Then he went on and on about how you stop in all the time and use some song and dance about how you need to inventory his box and blah, blah, blah. So I guess I’ll just leave it between you two. ![]() |
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359 ![]() Groupie ![]() Joined: August-18-2018 Location: Indiana Status: Offline Points: 60 |
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Outboards are simple, you just pull them out and drain the lower unit. |
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camron18 ![]() Senior Member ![]() Joined: March-05-2015 Location: Michigan Status: Offline Points: 164 |
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you missed the j-tube on the front of the engine, near the water pump
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8122pbrainard ![]() Grand Poobah ![]() ![]() Joined: September-14-2006 Location: Three Lakes Wi. Status: Offline Points: 41045 |
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Matt,
You missed the plug on the J tube. on the forward end of the engine. With the 5 gals. you got into the engine, you should be good however, there are no guarantees. Since you missed the plug and then pumped, sounds like you don't have an engine manual. Check out the manuals in the reference section. |
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camron18 ![]() Senior Member ![]() Joined: March-05-2015 Location: Michigan Status: Offline Points: 164 |
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but id say you will be okay, just slightly less concentrated AF
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359 ![]() Groupie ![]() Joined: August-18-2018 Location: Indiana Status: Offline Points: 60 |
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Ok thanks, I figured I probably would be ok. I use the same stuff in my camper without blowing out the lines first, and that comes out ok.
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DVskier ![]() Senior Member ![]() Joined: September-04-2014 Location: Seneca SC Status: Offline Points: 449 |
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Also don't forget to take the hose off the transmission cooler.
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