Painting engine

I have most everything off , but when I removed the starter I noticed a little rust on the fly wheel. I was planning on leaving Trans and bell housing on for painting.
Question should I take them off or is the little rust normal-this has been sitting for a few years
Thanks
JT

jterr wrote: I have most everything off , but when I removed the starter I noticed a little rust on the fly wheel. I was planning on leaving Trans and bell housing on for painting. Question should I take them off or is the little rust normal-this has been sitting for a few years Thanks JT

I think Pete just forgot to say it, but some rust on the flywheel is normal.

I'd probably rotate it 360 degrees by hand to make sure it's consistent and there's not a heavy rust line anywhere on the flywheel from having a bunch of water in the bilge for a long time while it was "stored" by the previous owner.

John,
I mentioned the damper plate. Here's the best price at ebasic power

8122pbrainard wrote: KENO wrote: I think Pete just forgot to say it, but some rust on the flywheel is normal.. 8122pbrainard wrote: John, so the flywheel never got painted. John, I think Ken doesn't know that unpainted steel rusts.

I sorta thought that Pete and I sorta think that you don't know what John's flywheel is made of either

Unless you want to tell us all that cast iron and steel are the same thing. They're not a lot different, but they both rust.

You could also mention the 20 dollar cheaper version of the damper plate (ALTDA-106) that takes some trimming. You know, it's the one you used. Then you could tell him how you trimmed yours and a bunch of other people have done the same.

Here's a link about it in case you forgot

link

John,
Yes, there is a $20 cheaper version of the damper. I linked the already trimmed version after thinking it may be easier for you feeling you may not be equipped for it. Sorry if I assumed wrong.

jterr wrote: Update: I took the Exhaust off and tranny to replace the damper. See pics- Under left header The damper and tranny Bottom of distributor(I hope I can clean and paint, if the above is not catastrophic)

JT

Here are a few thoughts

Picture 1....... only the previous owner knows if those rust streaks were there before he replaced the heads and he just didn't clean or paint anything.

Picture 2....... on the damper there's that ugly rust line I mentioned earlier meaning the water level was high enough to have your front seal on the transmission underwater for quite a period of time (and maybe the rear main seal on the engine too) Also a number of the damper springs were underwater for quite a while too, but you're already replacing the damper anyways.

Picture 3..........That distributor has at least a couple of problems

First, it's just plain ugly

Second, that big gaping rectangular hole in the body is where a vacuum advance mechanism once lived meaning it's an automotive unit that isn't spark protected.

Back to picture 2, the cement blocks look to be in pretty good shape   

Would this distributor work
https://www.ebay.com/itm/NOS-Ford-Prestolite-Marine-Distributor-E5JL-12100-CA-Prestolite-7020S-NEW/331680410097?epid=1622285754&hash=item4d39b169f1:g:G1MAAOSwl9BWHH1m

jterr wrote: Would this distributor work https://www.ebay.com/itm/NOS-Ford-Prestolite-Marine-Distributor-E5JL-12100-CA-Prestolite-7020S-NEW/331680410097?epid=1622285754&hash=item4d39b169f1:g:G1MAAOSwl9BWHH1m

That would work with the right gear it's the Prestolite screwdown cap distributor that was used starting in 87 or so.

It comes without a cap or rotor, you can find them at SkiDim or you can go on EBAY and punch in these numbers for the screwdown cap and rotor

PCM RA108003 cap
PCM R103004     rotor

or

OMC 984401 cap
OMC 982880 rotor

A little shopping will save you some money

You'd need a Reverse Rotation gear since the one in the EBAY listing is for normal rotation.

The gear on your present distributor must be a RR gear that the guy pirated from the original Prestolite. The present one looks like an Autolite/Motorcraft distributor that has the same shaft size of .530 inches.

Before doing anything I'd pull the distributor and post a picture of the gear

Well I checked the casting # and the engine is a 94 not a 83 as I thought.
Good or bad -don't know


Also suggestions on cleaning engine without wetting wrong parts.

jterr wrote: Here is Distributor

Well, the good news is the RR distributor gear should fit the EBAY distributor you linked. It may need to have a new hole drilled to have the gear at the right height on the shaft...... or it may be OK.

I'd make sure you can get it off with no damage before getting the other distributor

There's info about the height measurement etc. or you could ask here if you decide to go that route.

A 94 block will have a 1 piece rear main seal compared to the 2 piece you have now

It may or may not have brass freeze/casting/core/expansion plugs depending on where it came from.

I suppose you don't really know what you have inside that engine.

I don't remember, did this engine run when you got it?

jterr wrote: I got this-

From here it looks like a clipdown Prestolite with the right gear already on it.

That would have been the original 83 distributor.

You'd make Pete so proud, an original distributor complete with a set of points

Whatever you do, don't throw that RR gear on the ugly distributor away. They're scarce and getting scarcer

jterr wrote: Roger That, I'm thinking of putting the upgraded ignition in it.....

That's OK, Pete has an electronic module in his

jterr wrote: Also suggestions on cleaning engine without wetting wrong parts

Don’t clean with water.

Acetone on a clean rag.

I guess I will use a wire brush on drill first to get in all the crevis'; it is pretty dirty

Can this be explained, as I have never had it happen before.

I took the valve covers and oil pan off to paint and decided to go ahead and remove oil filter...It had no oil in it

Anyone else had this or do I have another problem