Painting engine

8122pbrainard wrote: 67 ski nat wrote: Just curious why do marine alts have screen. Because they spark inside! Not a good combination if there are gas fumes in the engine compartment/bilge.

Not all marine alternators have screens, that's the way Delco does it as mentioned earlier.

Others use sealed covers over the brushes to meet USCG standards.

Here's a link to ARCO electric showing some of the more popular alternators and how they accomplish meeting the standard.

There's also a brief explanation of the testing.

Your 67 Nautique won't have screens unless the alternator was replaced with a Delco over the years.

If you're wondering if you have a marine alternator, pictures, numbers and some research should tell you

Most marine alternators that meet the standard have a tag or other markings that indicate that it meets SAE J1171 specs. but back in 67 that standard wasn't born yet   

link

Now that I have my new alternator (silver looking) can I paint it?

Decided not to piaint.

jterr wrote: A question on ignition. If I change to the electronic module on distributor do I need those resistors mounted on rear of engine?

John,
It depends on who's EI conversion you use. Follow their directions.

jterr wrote: Decided not to piaint.

I applied a couple of coats of clear engine enamel on all of my 'raw' metal parts, except for the screens as Ken suggested. This keeps them from looking dull and corroded in a couple of years.

KENO wrote: jterr wrote: I got this- From here it looks like a clipdown Prestolite with the right gear already on it. That would have been the original 83 distributor. You'd make Pete so proud, an original distributor complete with a set of points Whatever you do, don't throw that RR gear on the ugly distributor away. They're scarce and getting scarcer

Don't sweat it JT.

That distributor was used up till 86 or so and will drop right into your engine.

Don't know what electronic kit you might be looking at but if it's a Pertronix, the part number for the clipdown cap is 91581 for the Ignitor 2 or 1581 for the plain old Ignitor.

The Ignitor 2 is an improved version of the original

There's not much else that's still available for that distributor these days.

And..............you can ditch the ballast resistor{s} like said earlier by bfootr

And..............you won't make Pete proud, but that's OK

Nice!

I'm getting creative on mine as well

We have plenty of this at all the HD stores!

Thanks Yea the paint came from Wally World and it is Rustoleum. I even got Blue plug wires (didn't know till I opened the box).
If the Distributor cap was black would probably have left the same but that Tan just looked awful

Just putting on more hoses and seem to have problem-see pic

jterr wrote: Just putting on more hoses and seem to have problem-see pic

It's a good thing you post pictures JT, since you can notice all kinds of stuff looking at them.

In the picture above , my keen finely trained eye can see that your pump isn't ever gonna pump water.      Why's that you ask?

You have a RH rotation engine and the pump is installed right now for a LH rotation engine since the screw head can't be seen..

If you look at the picture below courtesy of somebody on CCF, you can see the screw head on the pump facing outboard and you can see how the hoses are hooked up and oriented too.

That's how your's should be hooked up. Suction on the bottom, discharge on the top and the screw head pointing outboard.

Clearance between the pump pulley and the big hose is pretty tight

gt40KS wrote: Hmmm...   this post has taken an interesting turn. I'm still waiting to hear certain comments from Pete and Ken.     But for the record John, I like what you've done so far

Joe

Your pump is kinda plain looking , gray and unpainted bronze or is it clear coated cast iron and bronze, you should really do something about that.

We'll let Pete pick the color scheme for ya   

jterr wrote: Another Question. Should I keep this MSD distributor or go back to the original?

Its a coil not a distributor and if it ain't broke I wouldnt fix it

Forgot about the broken resistor, will engine run/start without it?

8122pbrainard wrote: jterr wrote: Forgot about the broken resistor, will engine run/start without it? Is it broken? It looks like the engine was hooked up to one ballast resistor so, it may be good however the Ohm meter will tell you for sure. Keep in mind as stated previously, you need to follow the wiring directions of the EI conversion you plan on using.

For now just wanted to crank engine to check out rebuilt carb. I'll get my neighbor over he understands the ohm thing.
Thanks