Painting engine

Now I'm really cornfused.

I have the MSD coil and directions say to add a 0.8 ohm resister. I read up on the electronic ignition conversion kit and it says to use a 1.4 ohm ballast resister.

Hey All,
Need a pic of how the coil is mounted on engine 83 PCM. Actually the mount also. I checked my 79 but it is on the opposite side, manifolds don't look the same.
Thanks

These are the Dayco numbers from my 80's vintage PCM 15400 (11A1015) and 15455 (11A1155). Don't know which one is which but maybe you can cross reference them to any belt at a parts store. If you can wait til sometime tomorrow I can uncover it and maybe see which belt goes to what and the alternator pulley diameter to see if your new one is the same size.

Here we go again with the dumb questions...
I ordered a set of Sierra Marine plug wires and didn't think about the distributor end. Anyhow I have to return and the customer service said all they have is non marine. Is there a difference in marine and standard plug wires?

The only marine thing I can think of is that with the marine exhausts in place the normal method of running the wires from the distributor over the valve covers to the plugs are blocked. PCM chose to use longer wires and running them down in front of the valve covers then up to the plugs. So a set for a car or truck might not be long enough. You could then make your own or just buy a set ready to plug and play. link

jterr wrote: I found a set of marine wires at Summit Racing-www.summitracing.com/parts/rra-18-8842-1

John,
My concern was the same as Gary's with the set being too short but, per the comment in the listing, someone has used them by routing under the manifolds.

Ya'll run out of paint yet? I know its still too cold to spray paint up north that lacquer you guys like

jterr wrote: Here is another non paint question When I removed all the spark plug wires from engine forgot to mark (actually I did, but it faded-duh). Will they be the same as on my 79 351?

If you're asking if the firing order is the same, it is but...............you need to determine which terminal on the cap is #1 by finding where the rotor is pointing when #1 cylinder is at top dead center on the compression stroke (you may have to rotate the body so that the rotor lines up with a terminal) and that will be the #1 plug wire , then you go Counter clockwise around the cap with the reverse rotation firing order 1 8 4 5 6 2 7 3

You'll need to check and adjust the timing after it's running.

This is the short, not too wordy version   

She runs--Well she turns over

I'll vote for key left on without the engine running.

If the points are closed and the key is on without the engine running you have a direct path to ground and the coil heats up.

67 ski nat wrote: No water. Is it ok to do that. Thought my Sherwood would melt impeller???

Pump is not hooked up, just running enough to make sure it will run when I put it in boat.

You can also hook a water hose to the inlet. I hook mine into the transmission water cooler. Gonna set that up later today so I can check for water leaks.

Timmy T:

8122pbrainard wrote: Lisa, David's suggestion is a good one since you can do some diagnosing on the trailer BUT, make sure you also take his suggestion with utilizing the Timmy Tee method of supplying water. The danger with using a direct garden hose connection is the water pressure from the hose will mask cooling system problems. The Timmy Tee being an open system allows the RWP to suck what it needs without adding any water pressure. Also be aware of the Perko Flush Pro as it too pressurizes the system masking system problem. Besides, it's a plastic piece of junk anyway!! Here's a thread with some info on the Timmy Tee.

jterr wrote: See pic (not my engine) of direction of my motor, how can it pump water in the direction of red arrow in top pic????

How a flexable impeller pump works. It is NOT a centrifugal pump!!!

Didn't understand how it could work but the video shows it all. I thought for a minute I had a engine running backwards