Marine Distributor

The vacuum advance probably won't work very well. Unlike automotive, the marine engine being under load most of it's RPM range doesn't produce the correct vacuum. You can try it but what's really needed is a distributor with a mechanical advance.

Are we talking about an Australian distributor ? Don't their toilet flush backwards ?

Wilhelm Hertzog wrote:    PO of my boat installed an automotive distributor that I doubt has been marinized like you did, and I am concerned it is causing some issues with my motor's running.

What are the issues with the engine? Does the auto distributor still have the vacuum advance and is it connected?

So here is where I am . I bought the dist and 8mm wires . I then removed the vac advance and installed a aluminum bracket to prevent the pick up coil from moving. Then I filled the hole in the base where the vac advance went through. I then drilled 2- 3/8 holes in the bottom of the unit and epoxied fine brass screens to the inside. I installed the dist and wires and checked the timing. The total advance of the original dist was 15 degrees it was the same on the HEI unit so no adjustment was required. Engine starts immediately and runs great . I will keep you posted as time goes on.

H2oXtremes wrote: Alright it seems I can never get the thread search option to ever really pull up any searches unless I type out exact matching phrases of a topic, I guess keywords isnt something this site can understand So I am sorry in advance is this topic has come up before. .

Use a "google" type search as the sites search feature isn't the best.

Nautiquehunter wrote: I was hoping to get some facts how does the manufacture of the marine dist make it so? Its obvious they started with a stock automotive dist and modified it for marine use . Just like with starters,alternators,fuel pumps and carbs all are modified automotive parts modified to be marine compliant. I know the vac advance will have to be removed and the gap filled and sealed to the cap . 3/8 vent holes covered with fine brass screen and reset the advance curve will be needed . Did I miss anything?

That's basically it, part of the process would likely be testing and making fixes based on the results of that testing. I have had a few boxes tested for hazardous locations, sometimes they pass easy sometimes something unexpected causes issues.   

I would also be very careful of the quality of the distributor... I doubt you are worrying about a reverse rotation gear for what you have in mind but do pay close attention to the gear.   I just got towed home a few days ago in my truck because I replaced the 38 year old original distributor with a new one from the local autozone cause I figured I would treat the new engine to all new parts.   The new distributor had a clearance fit on the gear, and a cheap excuse for a roll pin to hold it in place.   It made it about 50 miles.   Half a day of work lost and 135 for the tow and I am back to the old distributor and running like a champ.

Duane in Indy wrote:    I have done several gear swaps It is best done on a milling machine but can be accomplished on a drill press.

Duane,
I feel when accuracy is difficult it's one of the reasons taper pins and reamers were developed waaaay back! Actually, I also feel this is a great application for a taper pin.

Just a quick side note FYI:    Dated (1/6/2016)    Yesterday MSD Performance announced that they have officially acquired the ACCEL Performance Group who owns not only ACCEL Ignition, but also Mr. Gasket, Mallory Ignition, Lakewood, Quicktime, and Hays.

I think you would have to check to see if it even has any mechanical advance at all,some modern ones do not. Some are vacuum retard for emissions too.
The Mallory YL in the older Holman Moody's were automotive ones converted to marine but they started out as a dual point centrifugal advance to begin with. They removed a set of points,made a new point plate and put the condenser inside. No screens were installed either. I filled the vent hole and installed a screen assembly from a junk distributor

Michael,
Considering the mark up typical of OEM parts, I have a feeling that you would end up spending more than a new marine to convert the automotive. Let's see if anyone else has any ideas.