Help! Cooling issue! Novice

8122pbrainard wrote: John, What about the RWP? have you taken a look at the impeller? I'm curious if it's bad or good.

Here it is. Not sure if this would be considered good or bad. It hasn't broken up and still has some flexibility, but looks like there are a few cracks where the neoprene has curved over. What do you think? Would it cause my overheating in this condition?

I will certainly do that. Can I accurately gauge whether I am cooling properly using a "fake-a-lake"? will it supply enough water for that?

Okay. I haven't gone through that yet. I will make a point to do that. Thanks

GottaSki wrote: Its bad. The only power to pull water from the lake comes from the impeller's vanes springing back to shape. Your old one is 'set' and will pull extremely little to no water, especially at idle. Like Pete sez, confirm pull with the bucket.

good to know. thanks for lingo too. I know I will pick that stuff up over time. I am going to order a plunger set-up so I can test it out once I get the new part installed and give my hoses all a good tightening.

heh. yeah.
Pete i know you get 40 years out of yours but i would never run that impeller.
the sides are worn out and leaking air past the weak vanes. No water on startup can be expected. I even let other people take the helm of my boat. I'd rather their eyes are on traffic than the temp gauge.
Remind me never to get in your airplane

Atomic

You seem to have gotten your pump issues into 2 separate threads now so I cut and pasted the below from my post in your other thread    

KENO wrote: Atomic Dam wrote: That is the image I keep running into on my searches. Mine is a strait through with the in and out flow directly opposed with only a 3 bolt pattern. Here is the cover. I suppose they could have made them in more then one way. Click on the link below and you'll find some pertinent info for your pump including mention of the impeller number (which happens to be the one you ordered or at least cross references to the one you ordered) And you "supposed" right......................It has port arrangements like you describe and also a 3 bolt cover. And it mentions a couple of gaskets # 14 in the diagram part number 17106-0000 and no O rings. It just might answer your questions.................maybe    It mentions plastic bodies but there were metal replacements for them too. link

[/QUOTE]   

Some people around here think I'm some kind of search geek ...............or maybe I've been searching since yesterday..............or maybe I know a 13 year old with a smart phone that can find anything.

Gotta go to bed now, I've been up for a long time

Well I am super glad he is. My buddy list is growing...

Great. Glad he is here. So update. I got the impeller in today. It is the correct impeller, I had to make my own gasket because I was unable to purchase that particular part and get here at reasonable cost. I will install tomorrow after work and water test it. Hopefully that will fix the cooling issue. I will also tighten up all the exhaust related hose connections as well..
I didn't realize how how of shape the old impeller was in.   It looked fine, other than being "set", but the holding the new one... the old one is hard and brittle. I hope this is the fix.

MrMcD wrote: There is no doubt, Ken has figured out the search method and probably has a God given memory that works better than most.   He has found solid solutions for more people than you can imagine.

He learned it from a young kid with a cell phone

And............the only thing or maybe few things I have a good memory for are useless to about 99 44/100ths percent of the world

The other 0.56% that it might be useful for are here on CCF   

When you install your brand new impeller squirt some dish washing soap fluid on the vanes, get them really slippery and you will be able to turn it right into place. Try it dry and you will be in for a fight.   The soap won't hurt anything, it will wash right out on start up.
Don't use petroleum products they will help rot and age your new impeller.
Mark

MrMcD wrote: When you install your brand new impeller squirt some dish washing soap fluid on the vanes, get them really slippery and you will be able to turn it right into place. Try it dry and you will be in for a fight.   The soap won't hurt anything, it will wash right out on start up. Don't use petroleum products they will help rot and age your new impeller. Mark

I truly wish I had seen this before I got to pushing and shoving on that thing. Lesson learned. Hopefully next years replacement will go smoother with that little trick. Thanks

I'm in Texas, ambient temps here are almost engine operating temperatures. It's not quite 8am here now and I think we are already up to 140.
I see the general thought here is that they are a yearly PMCS, along with fluids.

Atomic Dam wrote: , I had to make my own gasket because

John,
Ken's post regarding the gaskets got me thinking. The thickness of the two will make a difference on how well the impeller seals on the front and back (shaft ends). If the bucket test fails, I'd look at the gaskets. Also, is the impeller you purchased OEM?. The OEM suggestions earlier were due to the shaft end sealing issue. It was found that the OEM impeller had molded in "O" rings on it's ends whereas the imitation did not. The loss of performance was attributed to the ends not sealing.

KENO wrote: I think you're referring to the Sherwood 09959 impeller with it's ribs Pete, not his Jabsco.

Yes I am referring to the issue with the Sherwood OEM impeller VS non BUT, the Jabsco is still a flexible impeller pump that operates the same.