Shaft Alignment Question

Trey,

gcam4 wrote: For what it is worth I successfully tweaked my strut back and it was very similar to yours. I've been meaning to put together a thread detailing that, but I just haven't. It is on the to do list. It is very easy with a big crescent wrench and a 20ft piece of pipe to do so.

Trey, I will try to get a picture tonight of how I did it.  If you haven't already done so, drop your rudder so you can gain access easier back there.

Ok, I am planning to pull the strut tonight. 

gcam4 wrote:   I doubt anything is wrong with it. If you plan to pull it, do as Pete instructs and move it. You are likely off fractions of a degree.

Trey, before you pull the strut, put the shaft back in.  When you pull it closer to the transmission, spin it by hand.  Then slightly pull up on it and spin it again.  Basically the only thing the block does is support the shaft and to make it be the most concentric thru the strut.  You basically move the wood around until the shaft is happy in the strut.  There is not science to it necessarily, it is just feel.  You'll want a piece of wood when you get the strut aligned again and likely while you are aligning it.  The shaft will naturally want to move due to gravity and it will look low in the log without it being supported.  Just try it before removing it so you can get a feel.

Ok, I got the strut off. It wasn’t easy, but not as hard as I have read in some other threads. The sealant was very rubbery, and didn’t look as old as what was around the rudder port, so I’m guessing that the strut has been messed with in the past. 

8122pbrainard wrote: I wouldn't worry too much about the gel coat. You will be putting a new layer of bedding down and actually, you what the gel  to be roughed up anyway. The Scotchbrite wheel isn't a bad choice. What color was the bedding used you are removing?

SNobsessed wrote: TG3 wrote: Once the strut is off the boat, is it possible to measure or gauge it somehow to see if it is bent? You can put on a flat surface & sight it against a square for comparison.  Look at it from both front & rear ends.

TG3 wrote: Its going to be a couple more days before I can get back on this project. In the meantime, I was thinking, which is usually dangerous. Has anyone ever used a bore sighter for a rifle to align the shaft?

I believe they use them now to get the log in a better location in the hull. That is the only thing I can think of that it would be useful for. You need alignment within 0.003" preferably less.

I dry fit the strut yesterday. I got it lined up in the center of the log. It wasn’t necessary to shim it for the vertical alignment. I used the block of wood as suggested, slid it under the transmission end of the shaft until it gave support but the shaft still turned without binding.

If it quits raining I’m going to try to get it bedded/sealed after church today. I made some marks on the bottom of the hull with a sharpie so that I can put the strut back in the same spot.

Any tips on the bedding? I have a caulk gun size tube of 3M 4200 so I think I will have plenty of sealant.

8122pbrainard wrote: Trey, I think you'll have enough 4200 to bed over 10 struts!  Don't completely trust your sharpy marks. As you are thightening up the stut mounting bolts frequently check the shft for center and free to move in the cutlass.

I knew I should have bought the 3oz tube instead! Oh well.

I will make sure I check alignment often as I tighten up the bolts.

  

Shaft is in the boat, gland nut (no packing yet) and safety collar on the shaft.

Done by the videos and those numbers says to me that you're good.