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Shaft Alignment Question

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote TG3 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: May-03-2021 at 8:22pm
AWESOME!!! That makes me very happy, and very close to finishing!!

Thanks guys!
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote KENO Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: May-03-2021 at 8:28pm
Remember all those "opportunities" mentioned early on in this thread?

I think you're through them now Wink
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote TG3 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: May-03-2021 at 9:32pm
Originally posted by KENO KENO wrote:

Remember all those "opportunities" mentioned early on in this thread?

I think you're through them now Wink

Well Keno, just one more opportunity! When i put the bolts in the coupler, they are a smidge too long, within .028” of the transmission bolts. Turns out the new driveshaft coupler is slightly thinner at the bolt flange then the old one. I know there wasn’t much clearance before, and the bolts don’t hit know, but that makes me very nervous.

Since finding a bolt 1/16” shorter is probably impossible, I’m going to run by Lowe’s tomorrow and get some stainless washers. That thickness will put the bolts back to about the same clearance as they were originally.

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote gcam4 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: May-04-2021 at 6:23am
Good work!
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote TG3 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: May-04-2021 at 9:35pm
Here is a little trick I discovered for a homemade coupler wrench.

My Craftsman 1/2” drive break over bar has a hole in the end for hanging on the wall. It is the exact size of the coupling bolt, so I bolted it loosely to the coupling and it worked perfect to hold the shaft while I torqued the net down.


Sorry the pic is rotated sidewise, i couldn’t figure out how to make it straight.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Gary S Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: May-04-2021 at 11:05pm
Just one of the many reasons I got an Android phone and ditched the Apple...  You did good thinking out of the box!
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote KENO Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: May-05-2021 at 6:28am
Originally posted by Gary S Gary S wrote:

Just one of the many reasons I got an Android phone and ditched the Apple...  You did good thinking out of the box!

Because your Android has a hole in it for hanging it on the wall Gary?
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Gary S Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: May-05-2021 at 8:33am
Yes Ken. But not is all lost,you can drill your own hole in your iPhone you just have to start from the back. It then permantly fixes that pesky picture rotation problem as well. 🙂
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote KENO Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: May-05-2021 at 8:57am
But, but, but............ I have an Android and my pictures sometimes come out rotated, funny thing is the only time it happens is here on CCF. Wink

They go onto my computer just fine and magically decide to rotate (only sometimes and for no real apparent reason) with that wonderful picture posting feature here on CCF.

Or about half of the time you get an error and have to do it over again after renaming the picture, just to get it to post at all.

Post a picture showing where I need to drill the hole and the hole size too, Wink
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Gary S Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: May-05-2021 at 9:46am
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote KENO Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: May-05-2021 at 10:12am
Got it Wink
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Gary S Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: May-05-2021 at 10:28am
Disclaimer- Ken keep in mind that this is not the headphone port modification! That is an entirely different operation see youtube for more info. I also have to admit that since I got the android I have not taken and posted pictures anywhere with it. Got so used to using my old camera that I just continue to do that.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote TG3 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: May-07-2021 at 9:45pm
This may be my last question, the end is in sight.

I was going to install the prop on my new shaft this evening, so I searched the site to find out what the torque spec for the prop nut is. I found Pete’s write up on lapping the shaft.

So, is this a procedure I need to do with my new shaft? I really want to be done with this project and back on the lake, BUT i have taken this much time to get it all right, so if lapping is the right thing to do, I’m in.

So, as i’’m sure Shakespeare would have said, “To lap or not to lap, that is the question!”
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 8122pbrainard Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: May-08-2021 at 5:44am
Trey,
Yes, I highly recommend lapping. It's important especially when you have ether a new shaft, prop or both. Lapping will take out any minor differences in the matting surfaces of the taper. 


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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote KENO Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: May-08-2021 at 6:36am
So Trey

Maybe it's not your last question Wink  One answer might lead to another question

Your next question should probably be ............."should I have lapped the coupling on the other end of my tapered shaft?"

It's no different than the prop end of the shaft.

It's not anything that's absolutely necessary on either the prop or coupling end, but fits more in the "good things to do" category.


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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 8122pbrainard Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: May-08-2021 at 7:56am
Regarding double taper prop shafts and the trans end taper, I've found two A.R.E's and one GP to not pass the prussian blue test and needed lapping. 


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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote gcam4 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: May-08-2021 at 8:09am
You should lap the prop in. I did mine off the boat which was a lot more convenient. I didn't do the trans end coupler. I didn't even think about it, but it makes perfect sense.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote TG3 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: May-08-2021 at 8:50am
Thank you all! Ken, the opportunities keep on coming!

I’ll get the supplies for lapping and get busy.

I’ll pull the coupler and do that end too. That makes good sense. And since I haven’t reinstalled the rudder I’ll remove the shaft and do all this on the bench.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote KENO Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: May-09-2021 at 6:47am
The opportunities abound Wink

You have the opportunity to use your coupling removal tool, it looks like an ARE coupling you have and their tool works well especially in tight spaces like you have between the coupling and the transmission output flange in your picture below from when you installed the coupling


You also have the opportunity to wonder "why would somebody tell me that he highly recommends lapping  the prop to the shaft but not even mention the other tapered  end?"


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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote SNobsessed Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: May-09-2021 at 7:57am
How many people have had the trans coupler prematurely come off of a ARE shaft?  Or found it easily removed, for that matter?

I would think, with both being machined at same shop, the tapers would match.  
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote TG3 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: May-09-2021 at 10:15am
When I ordered the shaft, I almost ordered the removal tool, but I thought “it will be awhile before I need that”. So I have one ordered now....!
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote KENO Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: May-09-2021 at 11:06am
In your situation, I wouldn't let the fact that I didn't lap the coupling bother me one little bit, but that's your choice Wink

If ARE wanted it lapped ( or thought it needed it) they would have done it before they sent it to you or sent some lapping compound with the shaft and coupling.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote TG3 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: May-09-2021 at 4:52pm
Originally posted by KENO KENO wrote:


In your situation, I wouldn't let the fact that I didn't lap the coupling bother me one little bit, but that's your choice Wink

If ARE wanted it lapped ( or thought it needed it) they would have done it before they sent it to you or sent some lapping compound with the shaft and coupling.



I can agree with this logic. I am going to proceed with lapping the prop end and be done.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 8122pbrainard Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: May-09-2021 at 5:16pm
Originally posted by SNobsessed SNobsessed wrote:

I would think, with both being machined at same shop, the tapers would match.  

They should math but keep in mind the tapers are done on different pieces of equipment. They may consider the taper " close enough but as Ken mentioned:

Originally posted by KENO KENO wrote:

  but fits more in the "good things to do" category.

Plus remember I found some that I didn't like looking at the prussian blue test.


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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote KENO Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: May-09-2021 at 8:07pm
Originally posted by 8122pbrainard 8122pbrainard wrote:

Originally posted by SNobsessed SNobsessed wrote:

I would think, with both being machined at same shop, the tapers would match.  

They should math but keep in mind the tapers are done on different pieces of equipment. They may consider the taper " close enough but as Ken mentioned:

Originally posted by KENO KENO wrote:

  but fits more in the "good things to do" category.

Plus remember I found some that I didn't like looking at the prussian blue test.

We should probably quote my whole sentence Pete, instead of just part of it Wink

Originally posted by KENO KENO wrote:

 
It's not anything that's absolutely necessary on either the prop or coupling end, but fits more in the "good things to do" category.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote KENO Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: May-09-2021 at 8:11pm
Originally posted by TG3 TG3 wrote:

Originally posted by KENO KENO wrote:


In your situation, I wouldn't let the fact that I didn't lap the coupling bother me one little bit, but that's your choice Wink

If ARE wanted it lapped ( or thought it needed it) they would have done it before they sent it to you or sent some lapping compound with the shaft and coupling.



I can agree with this logic. I am going to proceed with lapping the prop end and be done.

Sounds reasonable to me considering that you wouldn't have even found out about lapping the prop end if you didn't go searching for torque values.

And not lapping the prop isn't exactly the end of the world either. Wink
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote gcam4 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: May-09-2021 at 8:18pm
I remember now that I lapped the transmission end as well as the prop. It took about 5% of the time to do the transmission end.

I would imagine they use the same lathe to do both, obviously with different tools though. I believe that is the reason why it was so quick for me to do.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote TG3 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: May-14-2021 at 9:37pm
Everything is lapped up nice and and installed!

Now I am reinstalling the rudder. It’s been a while since I disassembled it so how tight should that bolt on top that threads into the rudder be tightened? If I tighten it too much it locks up the steering so I’m thinking snug it up and that’s what the safety wire is for?
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote gcam4 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: May-14-2021 at 10:21pm
Others may correct me, but you just want it tight enough so that it will not move vertically.   It has a lock washer and safety wire to keep it from backing out.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 8122pbrainard Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: May-15-2021 at 6:09am
Trey,
The bolt MUST be tight. If your steering is binding when you tighten it up, then you need a spacer washer on top of the rudder shaft. Spacers are added or removed depending on where the rudder port packing gland (nut) ends up after tightening it. The gland height will vari depending on how many wraps of packing is used, how tight it is as well as the type of packing. Did you just repack the rudder port? 


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