Boats For Sale:
79 nautique rebuild |
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Smithfamily 
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Joined: December-26-2007 Location: Orlando, Fl Status: Offline Points: 1602 |
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 Posted: June-01-2021 at 8:11am |
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Its really looking good!!
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Js
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wayoutthere
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Joined: February-28-2020 Location: Headquarters Status: Offline Points: 499 |
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Posted: June-02-2021 at 4:32pm |
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Hot air out i hope, should circulate better ? Smithfamily, thank you for the nice words. The plugs are in order as viewed from the flywheel. The valve cover bolts were just passed finger tight and that was where the worst of the oil seepage was Before the plugs went back in i put 1/2 teaspoon of 10w40 down the holes and rotated the engine past the timing mark 8 times by hand. Heres the plugs and top end, cylinders all looked shiny, engine has been sitting seven years. What do you guys think ? Looks ok right ?               |
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8122pbrainard
Grand Poobah 
Joined: September-14-2006 Location: Three Lakes Wi. Status: Offline Points: 41045 |
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Posted: June-03-2021 at 7:50am |
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Dan, Unlike land based engines that rely on radiators to transfer excess heat to the air, our marine engines have unlimited supply of water to get rid of the heat. If the RWP (raw water pump) is doing it's job, there's not a problem with cooling. One area of concern is bilge venting to exhaust any potential fuel vapor. The typical method is to have forward facing vents on the foward deck or sometimes forward facing vents on the gunnels. Then aft facing vents on the aft deck. The combination has worked for many years.
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67 ski nat
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Joined: July-19-2018 Location: Santa rosa Status: Offline Points: 1199 |
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Posted: June-03-2021 at 8:54am |
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Hey WOT. Thanks for pics
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Gary S
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Joined: November-30-2006 Location: Illinois Status: Offline Points: 14096 |
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Posted: June-03-2021 at 12:50pm |
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If you haven't already it would be a good idea to remove that oil pan and clean it up. They like to rust through and are almost impossible to find now. Boats looking great.
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wayoutthere
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Posted: June-04-2021 at 3:52pm |
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Way back i bought this engine/pylon mount and pylon because it solved the unknowns i had. worked out perfectly to space and cut s tringers, locate the engine, floor and dog box.
At this point there is 3 issues, 1. it's out of sqaure from the heat when it got welded i think. 2. Since its out of sqaure i think it will hinder installation. 3. if it breaks @ the pylon the engine would have to come to repair it. When i located the stringers ther was wood wedged in at the back to hold spacing eqaul to the front. When i located the engine mount it had to be clamped in place, to be safe 1 hole was drilled in the stringer for location later on. Today i put the mount and pylon in to locate the foot and see how it lined up with the floor and dog box. It all looked good but still don't like putting all that force on the mount, so i cut it. Now the angle still gets bolted to the stringers and the engine still bolts to the angle but now the pylon mount is seperate. The foot can get bedded and glassed, the pylon mount can get installed without the engine being in the way. Pylon mount gets turned 180 and is notched to fit, angle gets cut 8 1/4 inches shorter allowing pylon mount to slide back and come out if need be. If the rain holds off tomorrow i can verify angle length and get a pic with the parts installed.
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wayoutthere
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Posted: June-11-2021 at 10:29pm |
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The trailer bunks are 30 inches high and had to go up to 32 inches to get her back on it and forgot how high the trailer was. I think whoever approved the design was high, i get it ya know, it was the the 70's maybe they were roller boogying under the trailer on the shop floor during lunch getting all cocained up and ready for the disco later on. How did you not get water up to the roof window on the olds vista cruiser launching these things way back when ? Back on the engine tomorrow, all gaskets are here.
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wayoutthere
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Posted: June-11-2021 at 10:39pm |
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Yeah that window
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67 ski nat
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Joined: July-19-2018 Location: Santa rosa Status: Offline Points: 1199 |
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Posted: June-12-2021 at 8:47am |
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Awesome ‘looking’ tow vehicle
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8122pbrainard
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Joined: September-14-2006 Location: Three Lakes Wi. Status: Offline Points: 41045 |
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Posted: June-12-2021 at 9:13am |
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Dan, I noticed it looks like new springs on the trailer? I'm not so sure but wondering if the springs were originally undermounted on the axle? With them being top mounted, that sure would add to the trailer height. Tim, What's your take on the spring set up?
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KENO
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Joined: June-06-2004 Location: United States Status: Offline Points: 11180 |
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Posted: June-12-2021 at 11:16am |
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That's how plenty of 70's Correct craft #3 trailers were built.
Springs over the axle and sitting pretty high. The bunk height from the ground sounds about right too. Once the fenders are on, it will look right One of them low boy trailers it's not
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KENO
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Posted: June-12-2021 at 11:43am |
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Here's a 79 on it's trailer from a CCF post sometime in the past
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wayoutthere
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Posted: June-13-2021 at 5:07pm |
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I measured wanting to go underslung and luckily have a "looking down the keel" picture before the engine was removed, underslinging the axel would help considerably but there is a crossmember brace the axel would be too close to.
The tongue is extended 3 1/2 feet, that should help load and launch, it backs up real good now.
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wayoutthere
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Posted: June-14-2021 at 12:58pm |
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         Pylon mount installed and all bolts tightened up to 15 pounds pylon ended up in a pretty good spot so the foot is located and ready to get bedded down and glassed in place.
The blue tape marks max length the engine angles can be and still allow the pylon mount to be removed, as seen by the stringer countours, theres more than enough room. The holes in the stringers will get resin swabbed when the foot is getting it's glass, and 4000 for final install of the mount. pics are just to confirm # of layers the stringers got during install.  |
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wayoutthere
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Posted: June-14-2021 at 1:21pm |
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The other reasons for having separate pylon and engine mounts was simple, there was 2 inches of shaft sticking out the strut when i started.
lots of math and drawings @ 12 degrees showed moving the engine 1 1/2 inches forward gives just a touch more clearance under the engine and thus more room to adjust the alignment. (Engine should actually go up to meet shaft c/w moving forward) Everything rotated smooth, no binding and nothing sprung or felt different after the couplers were unbolted. The stern tube is out and needs to be bedded once alignment is achieved, the old cutlas will keep it centered on the shaft. The engine was slid over to port but the shaft was centered in the tube, could still be bad part somewhere The engine will get centered in the boat and the strut will be adjusted to meet up with that center instead of the other way round, at that point final alignment will come from the mounts, i'm not going to just slam on the strut and hope the engine fits under the dog box, lines up the pylon and leaves the prop wih correct spacing from strut. I can check the prop, the strut doesn't show signs of damage or repair, like mentioned everything felt smooth, but my gut is telling me be ready for a new shaft. |
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wayoutthere
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Posted: June-21-2021 at 1:07pm |
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Long story short about the rear mounts, bushing locates center, spacer locates elevation (shim under spacer sqaures it up). They operate smoothly now with no up/down movement of adjustable bolt. 10 laced layers on pylon 1200 sqaure inches of material.
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wayoutthere
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Posted: June-22-2021 at 7:35pm |
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Don't see any wear on the cam, nothing bad in the pan, i think o.k. for 42 years old and sitting for 7 years now. 5-6 teeth in a row on the flywheel ring are worn, hopefully one of the shops around here can install a new one and for good measure while it's apart, i'll order a new dampener as well. |
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KENO
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Joined: June-06-2004 Location: United States Status: Offline Points: 11180 |
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Posted: June-23-2021 at 7:04am |
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Do you want part numbers for the ring gear and the damper plate or are you all set?
The ring gear is fairly straightforward to do it yourself with no special tools. Seeing everything else you've done, the ring gear wouldn't give you any challenges. A few early caveman tools are all you need, hammer, punch, heat square piece of tree  |
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wayoutthere
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Posted: June-23-2021 at 12:44pm |
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Thanks keno, the help and advice are always welcome and appreciated.
Ordered the dampener from ski boat parts (ron) @ 0830 this morning and local shop has a new flywheel on the way, cheaper than a ring with install. I heard it was common for the diy'er to pop a ring on but never done it myself. Anyways, this falls under the safe or sorry thinking, i never want to pull the engine or if i sell it, i wouldn't want the buyer cursing my name, so safer to put new parts on now that cant be changed without pulling and re aligning. |
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8122pbrainard
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Joined: September-14-2006 Location: Three Lakes Wi. Status: Offline Points: 41045 |
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Posted: June-23-2021 at 12:57pm |
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Dan, I sure don't know where you have shopped for a ring gear but I'm finding them for $10 to $20 new.
What's the number of teath on the flywheel you are getting?
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GottaSki
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Joined: April-21-2005 Location: NE CT Status: Offline Points: 3365 |
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Posted: June-23-2021 at 1:25pm |
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Wow, nice ride
You are this close, consider take the #2 and #4 bearings caps off for inspection and replace the set if they show copper. if so, then just do the rods too. You can leave the heads on. If the mains look good, stop, just tap them back in place and retorque and resume
If worn, just roll them in, new rear main seal, for 120 bucks or so the bottom end will be good to go for a long time ahead. |
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"There is nothing, absolutely nothing, half so much worthwhile as messing around with boats...simply messing."
River Rat to Mole |
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Gary S
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Joined: November-30-2006 Location: Illinois Status: Offline Points: 14096 |
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Posted: June-23-2021 at 2:41pm |
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Aftermarket ring gear part numbers for future reference-
Napa 6003030
Dorman 04410 Sealed Power 416121 ATP ZA 503 Ford C20z6384b |
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Smithfamily
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Joined: December-26-2007 Location: Orlando, Fl Status: Offline Points: 1602 |
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Posted: June-23-2021 at 3:40pm |
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The info passed around here is second to none and quite impressive. I am enjoying the read.
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Js
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KENO
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Joined: June-06-2004 Location: United States Status: Offline Points: 11180 |
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Posted: June-23-2021 at 8:54pm |
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Can't forget the Pioneer FRG-157N ring gear that's pretty easy to find. I don't think it matters to Dan since he's got his parts already on the way, but for the next guy, here are a couple of flywheel numbers that can get cross referenced to whatever brand you might be looking if looking for a flywheel.
And a picture of an original flywheel with the Ford part number  |
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KENO
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Posted: June-23-2021 at 9:15pm |
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Pete How about a link to one of those 10 dollar ring gears?
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67 ski nat
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Posted: June-23-2021 at 10:17pm |
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wayoutthere
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Posted: June-26-2021 at 1:49pm |
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  Ended up getting a new flywheel, told them it was 157 tooth never counted it tho, guess i'd better.new engine oil drain line and trans cooler lines, waiting on dampener, workin around rain, engine close to paint and oil pan osho'd Filled the trans, spun it up to prime it and she gets both gears, cant stop coupling by hand, hope that means it's good. It took 60 ounces. https://youtu.be/m2_jiIa3px0
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wayoutthere
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Posted: June-26-2021 at 2:46pm |
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The info and speed in which is comes in at is second to none for sure.
I just went out and counted the teeth, it's 157 and the old dampener lines up so we'll see how the new one fits. New ring gear wasn't expensive, it was the labor that made getting a new flywheel the better deal by 68 bucks. I don't have the room for an engine stand, so really can't pull mains and rod caps, good advice tho. If there is going to be another boat rebuild, the engine will have to either go to a shop or purchase a very clean low hour ready to drop in like i got for the raceboat. Oil/fluid/filters/lube/grease, general maintanence is not a problem but what i'm doing now is too much over too many days, there is grease and oil all over. Everything has to be cleaned constantly or the greasy oil mess migrates into the house into the shed and onto every surface tool, drawer, bench top etc etc Can't touch either boat, do any glass work or welding practice, can't touch the truck, the fridge door, nothing !!! |
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wayoutthere
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Posted: June-26-2021 at 4:09pm |
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  Hooorrraaayyy !!!!! more engine BS !!!
This is typical, every engine, even mother mercury with her serial numbers and special generation parts, there is always more engine bs. The aftermarket custom parts from the highest praised highest qaulity highest polished and priced parts in the world all come with more engine bs. This issue today by comparison is peanuts, (diffent thread pitch is all) but it's aggravating and a stand still. The ad for the new dampener was clearly stated the ears may have to be trimmed, no problem, non issue. The dampener will only line up on 3 bolts regardless of the flywheel new or original, that's probably not an issue. The dampener bolts don't thread into the flywheel so monday i have to get new bolts from where i got the flywheel and get the old flywheel back in case the new one is metric which means it'll never line up on the crank. Hopefully i can return if neccessary and have them put a ring on the old one if it hasn't gone to scrap. Paid extra 5 bucks to get the dampener here to get painted and assembled by tomorrow so i could get going on the install Anyone wanna buy a ski boat that needs the engine bs sorted out.  |
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wayoutthere
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Posted: June-26-2021 at 5:14pm |
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    Its metric, dampener holes are threaded 1.25 the bolt holes to crank are bigger and the flywheel isnt what i would call snug on the crank thing like hubcentric. It doesn't rattle around on the crank but i thought it should fit snug. It'll probably work, i only know enough about engines that there is no such thing as direct replacement w/o other parts and/or mods.
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8122pbrainard wrote:
