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79 nautique rebuild |
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KENO 
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Joined: June-06-2004 Location: United States Status: Offline Points: 11127 |
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 Posted: September-10-2021 at 9:23am |
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Don't overthink this
Install the module and crank the engine over while looking at the timing with your timing light. You never know, it might just start  If it's off by 20 degrees, you turn the distributor half of the amount it's off. For example, 20 advanced, turn it counterclockwise 10 degrees and that'll retard your timing by 20 degrees at the crankshaft where you're measuring the timing. If it's retarded, do the opposite When it's running, then set your timing at 10 degrees and tighten down the clamp
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wayoutthere
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Joined: February-28-2020 Location: Florida Status: Offline Points: 484 |
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Posted: September-10-2021 at 11:30am |
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Im gonna go into this under the too big of a coincidence theory. The engine had a bolt in each cylinder head that stuck out about 3 inches, i figured someone had the engine out at some point. The bolts are tapered fronts then threaded, only a few threads were showing, the rest was all shank. When i pulled the engine i used those bolts and the chain dinged up the valve covers so i bought the carb lifting plate and removed those bolts. They are long gone and exhaust comes out of them when the engine runs. So ford did this ? And it's a coincidence or bad news ? I put the old ignition in just to start run and check the engine, no leaks good oil pressure and so forth but now what. I have a 1/2 -12 bolt that seems like it threads in but i thought 1/2 was 1/2- 13, maybe i measured wrong and there bigger/different or special
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ultrarunner
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Joined: October-02-2005 Location: Ridgefield, Ct. Status: Offline Points: 1848 |
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Posted: September-10-2021 at 12:21pm |
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[QUOTE=wayoutthere]
Dan, what you are pointing to is were the OEM engine lift ring goes.  |
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KENO
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Posted: September-10-2021 at 12:28pm |
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Try a 7/16-14 bolt in there edit......or it may be a 5/8-11
It was used on cars for an EGR system. It's usually plugged inside if not used for EGR and shouldn't leak with no bolt in there, but give the bolt a try.
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ultrarunner
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Posted: September-10-2021 at 12:47pm |
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Bolts that resist rust in FL salt would be a good choice
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KENO
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Posted: September-10-2021 at 1:53pm |
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Just to clarify a little, you should be able to screw a 7/16-14 bolt into the hole because the hole is originally 5/8-11 as built and there's a threaded insert screwed in that has the 7/16 -14 threads on the inside and the bolt will screw into that. The insert is dead ended( except maybe in your case it rusted through or somebody did something strange)
 One at each end of the head, both with the same thread setup. One or the other of the sizes will fit depending on what been done in those holes |
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wayoutthere
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Posted: September-10-2021 at 2:03pm |
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I googled and it took me to mustang something.com and found out what and why. Just got back from ace 5/8-11 allen wrench plug things, installing now. Thanks guys, hope to hear it idle today
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wayoutthere
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Posted: September-10-2021 at 4:10pm |
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Well i put the bolts back in frankensteins head and no leaks, but because it can't idle really not able to get down there real good.
Not firing on all 8 could be module cap rotor or wires, hope it's not carb related both primaries are wet with gas and an adjustment to the accelerator pump helped a bit. Didn't pull plugs, digital thermometer shows 100 degree difference between exhaust pprts Oil pressure showing 50, 20 at 800 rpm, it's charging, but not ran over 30-45 seconds so no temp yet. Rain now so tomorrows another day. All spark plug wires are correct, firing order is correct Have a to try list; New module 1st, then cap rotor and wires, then squirt bottle with gas. Figuring the cap rotor and wires are not marine so hopefully mr o'reilly has them on the shelf. Hard starting, runs rough, stalls under 8-900, smells rich w/ soot on transom |
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SNobsessed
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Posted: September-10-2021 at 5:28pm |
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Maybe try to isolate the non-firing cyl by pulling plug wires 1 at a time.
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“Beer is proof that God loves us and wants us to be happy.”
Ben Franklin |
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KENO
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Posted: September-10-2021 at 6:29pm |
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For your screw down cap Prestolite here are some part numbers
Cap NAPA/Sierra 18-5352 PCM RA108003 Rotor NAPA/Sierra 18-5403 PCM R103004 Unless your O'Reilly's has Sierra parts, (the one closest to me once did) it may be tough to find something there because I don't think that screw down cap was ever used in an Automotive application that could be cross referenced. You being in Florida, you'd think they would though. You may have to visit Ms NAPA otherwise If you buy wires for a 351w in a car, truck etc, they tend to be short, but some Chevy wire sets are longer and fit better. You might want to bring your longest wire for comparison purposes.
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wayoutthere
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Posted: September-10-2021 at 7:49pm |
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Thanks for those numbers keno, napa in stock online only, skidim has cap rotor and wires for 11 dollars more than amazon, If no different results with new module i'll place the order monday morning.
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KENO
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Posted: September-10-2021 at 8:16pm |
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Sounds like a plan
Sorta sounds like some carb work might be in your future too maybe
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KENO
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Posted: September-11-2021 at 2:06pm |
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Just can't slip nuthin' past you I guess
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wayoutthere
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Posted: September-11-2021 at 4:17pm |
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Ignition module installed, huge difference, only 2 cyl's not firing.
Made the rounds, napa had a cap no rotor, held off , everyone else had nothing but diy wires, i passed. Bought an inline spark checker, it only broke 3 times. Cleaned cap contacts with emory cloth, mild difference. Spark on all 8 but a few seemed weak, regardless it significantly cleared up and smoothed out, after running /as it ran. throttle linkage disconnect and idle linkage screw turned down to just under a thousand rpm, because it kept climbing as it cleared up. A 3 thousand rev helped it pretty good, from that point, no smoke blue white black or otherwise from either exhaust now. Revs nice but belt sqeels (spelled wrong) Let run 7-8 minutes then shut down to get timimg light. No restart sounds like no spark, but spark checker says yes. On battery charger now. Going inside for coffee and cheesecake. Port idle/air screw 3/4 out from light seat as was and left Starb idle/air screw heavy 1/2 say 7/16 out from light seat as was and left. I'll try restart and time if it plays nice in a few hours.
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wayoutthere
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Posted: September-11-2021 at 4:55pm |
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 Majority of soot and i think it means rich condition was from port bank. If restart tonight i'll try for video maybe somene can hear and point something out. Like i said smoke and smells rich cleared up.
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KENO
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Posted: September-12-2021 at 5:29am |
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Since it runs with the new module installed and apparently no timing adjustment, you really have no idea what the timing is besides "it's somewhere in the ballpark"
It may be perfect, it may be "wayoutthere" in left field and need adjustment , so before really fiddling with the carburetor too much at all, you should verify/set the timing when you start it again. The no start after you turned it off sounds like it may be flooding itself
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wayoutthere
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Posted: September-12-2021 at 3:53pm |
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I didnt make any carb adjustments, i just marked, lightly closed and reset to mention it and see if it raised any flags.
This morning was a no start, pulled the plugs they were carboned up, cleaned them and no start. Noticed the carb was dry, 1 oz of gas, no touch throttle, in nuetral and it immediately fired and sounded good Took it to the gas station filled it with non eth and it's right back to were it was, hard starting, running bad and making black sooty rich smelling exhaust. Tomorrow i'll order the cap rotor and wires. Ill be totally stuck if that doesn't clear it up. Starting to sound like an over fuel problem, coincidence it cleared up and started running good right at the end of gas ?
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wayoutthere
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Posted: September-14-2021 at 10:01am |
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It's pouring gas down the primaries, i'll wait for the new cap rotor and wires before another try.
Quite a bit of reading tells me it could be a handfull of issues with the carb Bottom line the only thing i know about a carb, it sits on top of the engine and makes a giant sucking sound. Where can i send for a rebuild? Or buy new ? Reading tells me new carb power valve will be too small for my boat.
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KENO
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Posted: September-14-2021 at 12:26pm |
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Well, so far you've gotten through everything with a little help along the way, so it's time to tackle a carburetor rebuild/cleaning You can do it.
The list number on the choke horn is used to get the right kit. You probably have junk between the needle and seat for the primary bowl.
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67 ski nat
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Posted: September-14-2021 at 12:42pm |
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Follow kens owner in-house remedies for now
If a carb Rebiuld is needed by others Try Recarbco Hope,AR. 870-777-8821. Lonn is great They did two original CARTER afb perfect |
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wayoutthere
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Posted: September-14-2021 at 1:30pm |
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 Heres todays follies, took carb off, changed diaphram in the thing next to the choke, discovered choke arm wa s over red plastic lever and fixed (ha) that, put old gasket on thinking there was an air issue.
Choke is disconnected and has been, didnt retry it today. It actually fired immediately then stalled, once bowls filled it's back to running bad but it is starting and idling a touch better. Still a very long way off. Have a rebuild kit for the carb # on the horn direct from holley, but it may as well be astro physics.   |
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wayoutthere
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Posted: September-14-2021 at 1:33pm |
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Heres todays videos
https://youtu.be/diLj_zDQVU8 https://youtu.be/vkGV9_FbTd0 https://youtu.be/8I4lC2Sd3V8
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bwinn
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Posted: September-14-2021 at 1:58pm |
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I always keep a little “plastic” type hammer around when messing with that dripping fuel down the barrels situation. I’d tap it near the needle/seat while it’s dripping and see if it changes/stops. Just a tip
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wayoutthere
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Posted: September-14-2021 at 2:06pm |
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Good tip, thank you, i was trying that (tho not while running) with a crescent wrench, no effect. It's covered up, no touch till the last of ignition parts are in. |
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wayoutthere
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Posted: September-14-2021 at 8:23pm |
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This is what's left from the kit i have, guessing the 2nd picture is needle and seat/float stops ? The kit is #703-1 renew marine. The power valves are 2.5 and 7.5 the original is still in the carb as it's not numbered. Going to call holley tomorrow and order floats choke and power valve if i can determine which size to get. 1/2 a day reading and watching videos has my head spinning, i can probably get it close but i know theres a big difference between idling on the trailer vs running the boat. Anyone know which power valve would be a great help, Thanks guys. The new shaft arrived this evening.
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KENO
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Posted: September-14-2021 at 8:38pm |
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What's your list number?
Post that and there's a good chance a power valve number can be posted for ya In your second picture the top 2 assemblies are the needle and seat for a carburetor with externally adjustable floats and the bottom 2 are the needle and seat for internally adjustable floats. Your video shows that you have internally adjustable floats, so the top 2 assemblies won't get used. That kit covers multiple list numbers and you'll have multiple leftover parts from the kit when you're done.
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wayoutthere
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Posted: September-14-2021 at 9:03pm |
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I don't know what the list number is or where to find it
So are those the needle and seat you mentioned earlier may be stuck or dirty ? Thanks for the fast response
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KENO
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Posted: September-15-2021 at 4:35am |
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Here's an example of the list number, it's on the air horn. The Red pointer is pointing at it and it's 50419-1. Since you got a Holley kit by giving them the numbers on the air horn, one of the numbers was the list number. And those needle and seat assemblies on the bottom are what might have junk in them, at least on your primary bowl since the primaries are flooding.  |
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wayoutthere
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Posted: September-15-2021 at 10:24am |
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Thanks Keno, really going out of your way to guide me thru this and i appreciate it. The numbers on the horn read 80551 & 2000, i double checked with the magnifying glass as it does look like 2600 in the pic. There words "list#" do not appear anywhere on the carb. The only other stamped number is on the meter block and it reads 11953 (pointing at it) |
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KENO
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Posted: September-15-2021 at 12:17pm |
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80551 is the list number and it takes a 2.5 power valve.
Those rusty bowl plugs look like they should get an application of epoxy sooner than later. 2 per bowl. Kinda a leak waiting to happen
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KENO wrote: