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79 nautique rebuild |
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wayoutthere 
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Joined: February-28-2020 Location: Florida Status: Offline Points: 484 |
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 Posted: October-11-2021 at 9:08pm |
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No vent baffle, nothing was there when dis assembled.
All parts layed out on the dining room table, it looked like an exploded view. Nothing in the kit resembles it. Carb and rudder are still sitting on the table, other stuff had to happen today. Plan is to install both first thing tomorrow. do i need that part ? my in trouble ? Holley still hasn't emailed shipping info on floats, that thing might take years! I was all pumped for wednesday in the water.
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KENO
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Joined: June-06-2004 Location: United States Status: Offline Points: 11127 |
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Posted: October-12-2021 at 7:16am |
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The baffle would have been there at one time.
It'll run without it, but be more sensitive to fuel sloshing around and overflowing. Text or PM me your address and I'll send you one
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wayoutthere
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Posted: October-12-2021 at 8:41am |
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I see the point being on a boat, so the vent baffle isn't needed but there for a good reason
unlike the catalytic convertor and def tank, not needed but there anyway . Thanks keno, i'll send a text
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wayoutthere
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Posted: October-12-2021 at 9:36pm |
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Installed the rudder and snugged the nut by hand but had to use a wrench for another 1/4 turn to get the last shim on the post were the lever sits, lever bolt and top bolt are bottomed not tightened or wired yet.
I made some kind of a mistake somewhere, and the fix would be stomach turning, but i was wrong there too, the whole thing went off butter smooth. I measured everything off the transom for location and elevation at that point; loading the cable with wheel clocked differently twice until i realised the rudder wouldn't turn full right. All steering parts are the same except for the helm, the steering block is bolted thru the stringer according to the notes and the tube is clamped in the same spot. Slide the tube right, no problem except it's cushion clamped in place along with the wire harness control cables and battery cables and then 9 zip ties thrown in for neatness and good measure, 2 of which can't be reached unless the bilge pump is removed. The cable with zero effort slid thru the cushion clamps, the wire harness didn't get disturbed and 3 tries reloading and clocking got me a straight rudder, straight wheel and the width of a steering wheel spoke away from perfect left-right rotation. We'll see how far off under power it is and noted the rudder trim tab is adjusted off to port, don't know if it works the same as an outboard/drive trim tab or if it does the opposite. This is my first single inboard --- edit in: (first single inboard i set up/worked on.) Got the speakers installed and wired, installed a new bilge pump and bigger hose (ahem) at 1900 ups showed up with the shaft safety collar. Float test tomorrow, if it needs rudder post shims where do i get them, the usual places only seem to carry shims that go between the hull and port. These are 1 1/4 i.d. fit on the post and sit on top of rope compression nut under steering arm, hard to believe the thickness of new wood and glass the is same and rudder wont leak where the nut is at now. |
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wayoutthere
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Posted: October-13-2021 at 5:37pm |
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No different, extremely rich and rough running. 1000 rpm
The new cap needed to be trimmed where the bolt goes thru or it wouldn't go on the distributor. Firing order is correct, i traced every wire twice. Since i don't know how the carb works the only trouble shooting i can think of is during cable installation, both barrels had to be spun way out to hit the carb linkage, now the thought is the idle stop screw was and is in the wrong spot (flaps closed). The engine needs throttle, say idle-nuetral is North, the throttle needs to be dam near due west to start and run. Tomorrow i'll adjust the idle stop screw to where the throttle opens it when the engine runs, maybe its not too much fuel, just not enough air ? Idle mixture screws 1 1/2 turns open, no affect on rich condition or rpm no matter which direction or how much the screws got turned. Each adjustment left to run for 20 seconds and no affect. I'll post some pictures after dinner |
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wayoutthere
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Posted: October-13-2021 at 7:55pm |
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wayoutthere
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Posted: October-14-2021 at 11:05am |
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Oil pan is full of gas, no idea what to do other than buy an engine or get rid of it, no idea what would cause that.
The only thing i know is that this engine is ruining all the hard work that went into the hull, because no matter how many bath towels are laid on the floor, how many rags gloves hands and feet wiped the greasey oily mess gets everywhere and it gets harder to clean it up. I'm gonna put it in the water now to at least check/set the drips and measure boat position/tongue weight for the front bump stops.
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bwinn
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Joined: July-13-2009 Location: ct Status: Offline Points: 396 |
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Posted: October-14-2021 at 12:51pm |
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Time for a quick fuel….. I hear they are pretty good right out of the box
-Burton Hang in there your craftsmanship deserves it |
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wayoutthere
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Posted: October-14-2021 at 5:23pm |
I appreciate that for sure, but i don't think it's the carb, the oil pain has gas in it to me thats a bad engine or bad rings. I just got back from float testing a bit ago and have some uploading to do after a cup of joe and a camel. The boat is awesome but the engine is not and safe bet would be to include the transmission in that statement. The boat is worth finding a good engine but i don't know if i have the heart. I'll go into the whole what most likely happened to the engine in another post. Thanks
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Jonny Quest
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Joined: August-20-2013 Location: Utah--via Texas Status: Offline Points: 2983 |
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Posted: October-14-2021 at 5:31pm |
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The only way that fuel (gasoline) gets into the oil pan is from the carburetor. If the engine has blow-by, that will manifest itself in different ways. Your carb needs some TLC. The fact that it's running rich and now you have fuel in the oil pan are symptoms of a significant fuel leak inside the carb.
JQ
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Current
2003 Ski Nautique 206 Limited Previous 2001 Ski Nautique Open Bow 1994 Ski Nautique Open Bow Aqua skiing, ergo sum |
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wayoutthere
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Posted: October-14-2021 at 6:04pm |
Appreciate this as well, engines are not my area and this carb if it's still wrong or has some kind of leak, well we already know it's missing 1 internal piece for sure and to me the purported only guy/shop that exclusively serviced the boat was inside it and who knows what kind of dukes of hazzard jump car carburetor mods and tuning he did to it. I'll respond to the pm after dinner, thank you. |
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wayoutthere
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Posted: October-14-2021 at 6:16pm |
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SUCCESS, well, it doesn't run yet. or in my case luck that it launched and recovered better and easier than expected. I got 3 feet 6 inches worth of tongue extension ball to ball and the up pulling winch worked perfectly on the launch and load. The guide on goal post things i made also worked perfectly.
and so in order to keep pissing people off " my stuff worked pefectly and everyone elses stuff did not, well that's not fair, 1/2 of that stuff didn't fit or was flat out the wrong part, everything we've come to expect" the steering is 1 finger and the rudder port does not drip. the shaft packing gland leaks, no gushes, no niagra falls when adjusted per the instructions. It's hand adjusting and therefore convienant however it would not stop leaking until i used a wrench and then it would still drip drip drip too fast, it's not right probably just a defective part but it's brand new and it's a ***** to remove. i have some videos to upload and get posted.  It's in a little too far but i wasn't sure how deep to be so the tracking fins didn't hit the trailer. I'll have to relaunch and load again to get some measurements to make the bow stop and i know the bow stop will make a big difference as to how deep the trailer has to be because the boat floated /slid forward a bit once the stern started to float.     I always float on and off with the other boat and use the bow eye to help pull it. I pulled throwing the rope around the winch tower directly out of my ass.  Literally walked back pushed the boat off the dock and pulled the rope, it went on like it was being driven. The trailer wasn't as deep ( the lights were out of the water) and i think it could still be a few inches higher.  Moved the boat forward that much and now i like the tongue weight   The goal posts worked perfectly and it landed pretty evenly, i mean who doesn't like the boat to be perfectly on the trailer right ?   The up pulling winch is awesome. So it's down to measuring for a bow stop with a tie back/safety strap and some expanded steel to turn the tongue into a catwalk because it's a wobbly and scary walk from the tailgate to the winch and that 3 feet feels like a mile over aligator and shark infested waters let me tell ya. |
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wayoutthere
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Posted: October-14-2021 at 8:19pm |
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https://youtu.be/DDUIxOx7fhg
https://youtu.be/n-6fuNqBmn4 https://youtu.be/jFJy53stXbY https://youtu.be/NX1Q4qlYY0w
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wayoutthere
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Posted: October-17-2021 at 3:55pm |
     Met another member and his brother today, nice couple of guys, he was kind enough to bring it with him on his trip down to central florida and take time to meet up with me. It's in nice shape for 41 years old but 1 of the handles on the drivers vent window is busted, any ideas for replacement and/or modification, i'm wide open. He believes they may still be available and said he would check a particular website. When i got back this morning i almost broke down an ordered a new carb, then i wasted a couple hours getting all set up hooked up and installed new needle and seat in both bowls, ZERO change, this time i took the carb off immediately and seen all the fuel in the manifold, the 2ndary's were wet and also the gasket was very wet with fuel in that diamond shaped area between the primaries and 2ndary's heck with it, just ordered a new carb |
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wayoutthere
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Posted: October-21-2021 at 11:56am |
      the new stuffing box when you looked into/thru it, the rope was a bigger i.d. than the delrin compression washers. as a result it wouldn't drip correctly as seen in the float test videos. The place i got it from sent a new one out and you can see the rope now. just be sure i had everything on my end ok i double checked the stern tube, it was the correct diameter and it was centered good but it wasn't perfectly parallel so i shortened, wrapped and sanded it. Luckily i still have access to the easy bake oven secret tool box and got it all straightened out. If i had to do it over i'd make the stern tube without the bell end on the pvc pipe. the new carburetor arrived yesterday, if it runs then the timing and adjusting will be done dockside, i hope. going to pick up a vacuum gauge for the carb tuning this afternoon. |
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wayoutthere
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Posted: October-21-2021 at 1:35pm |
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Keno, the mailman just delivered that envelope, i'll get it going back tomorrow after lunch and text you the tracking #
Thank you
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KENO
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Joined: June-06-2004 Location: United States Status: Offline Points: 11127 |
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Posted: October-21-2021 at 2:39pm |
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8 days to get there, it must have taken a tour of the country on the way
Don't bother sending it back, believe me I'll never miss it,
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rebel skier
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Joined: October-17-2014 Location: Middle Tenn Status: Offline Points: 776 |
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Posted: October-21-2021 at 3:14pm |
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If its the vent baffle, I would take it. I did not see anything like that when I rebuilt mine.
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Hotty Toddy lets go skiing!
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wayoutthere
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Posted: October-21-2021 at 6:49pm |
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[QUOTE=KENO]8 days to get there, it must have taken a tour of the country on the way
Don't bother sending it back, believe me I'll never miss it, [/QUOTEYep, all the mail in ballots really got them behind. Thanks, i'll hang onto it until we know the brand new carb doesn't need it, oh and the floats got here the day before, ha !! Rebel skier, no vent baffle in a new carb that you rebuilt ?
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KENO
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Joined: June-06-2004 Location: United States Status: Offline Points: 11127 |
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Posted: October-21-2021 at 7:01pm |
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Assuming that you don't need it, send it to Rebel Skier
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rebel skier
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Posted: October-21-2021 at 7:36pm |
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Nope, Keno's pic was the first I have seen that -- definitely not one in my carb. Previous owner sent the carb out to National Carb for the rebuild, so I thinking they may have cut some corners? My power valve when I rebuilt it was different than most I seen in threads here too. If you don't need it I will take it.
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Hotty Toddy lets go skiing!
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wayoutthere
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Posted: October-21-2021 at 7:44pm |
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Rebel, i sent you a pm
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wayoutthere
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Posted: October-25-2021 at 3:36pm |
       i liked where the boat is on the trailer so the bow stop got made. Paint it and put the hdpe pieces on when it goes in the water. like i said metal fab, bodywork and welding, the holy trinity of things i suck at |
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wayoutthere
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Posted: October-26-2021 at 5:05pm |
I put the tongue down on a 2x4 and got the oil pan bottom level, drained it and then removed the plug to make sure. The picture is jacked up with the intake manifold at 12 degrees. With a full filter and 4 quarts in it i installed the new carburetor. It started and idled like a sewing machine, no adjustments or timing checks, 1 pump (can hear gas squirting in) and touch the key. The oil sits at the last L in full so i center punched it. All packed for another float test, drip set and adjustments, timimg etc. Its idling a hi 800 out of the box. If it goes well, a boat ride. Rebel skier, your envelope is on the way
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67 ski nat
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Posted: October-27-2021 at 9:51am |
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Congrats WOT. Enjoy your boat ride.
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wayoutthere
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Posted: October-27-2021 at 7:49pm |
   No vacuum from here  Vacuum from here on the spacer but it needed 3 hoses jammed together and i'm not sure if it's ok to use that.  Thanks 67, no boat ride today, it took a while for it to idle down to 800 and there was too much going on at the ramp to set up the timing light the bow stop worked out real good on and off the trailer. It was a long---long day with only idle and timing set, putting it in the water was a bad idea, couldn't get situated so i had to pack it in take it home and start over. At least i found out the new packing gland doesn't drip at all, the nut is loose and not touching the compression washer so water should be coming in. the only way to hook up the timing light is jumper cables. The longer the engine ran the more it cleared up and idled down. the vacuum gauge said late ignition timing and sure enough after setting the jumper cables back up and peeking under the alternator it was at 8. idle is now 650 and timing is now 11. It sounds pretty good now and ran under a thousand all day until i turned the camera on and gave it a couple shots up to 2200. the directions for the vacuum gauge now says it needs a carb adjustment, seems like putting it back in the water tomorrow and taking it out will cure the packing gland issue and just running it might do the engine some good, or not i don't know if the out of adjustment carb will damage the engine. the idle mixture screws were marked, port is 1/2 open, strbrd is 3/8 open, should i start at 1 1/2, is ok to hook the vacuum up on the big hose off the spacer ? |
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wayoutthere
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Posted: October-27-2021 at 7:56pm |
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https://youtu.be/be7NjbifewY
https://youtu.be/y35Cex0-92M
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Gary S
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Joined: November-30-2006 Location: Illinois Status: Offline Points: 14096 |
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Posted: October-27-2021 at 8:56pm |
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Yes you can connect to that hose. You can also get power for the timing light off the hot side of the solenoid and the ground side to the block if your lights cords are long enough.
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67 ski nat
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Posted: October-27-2021 at 9:36pm |
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You’ll get it !!!
Took me 7 water test before I had 3 in row perfect Even all day at the launch ramp is better than work |
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KENO
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Joined: June-06-2004 Location: United States Status: Offline Points: 11127 |
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Posted: October-28-2021 at 5:45am |
Like Gary said, hook the light right where the battery cable hooks to your slave solenoid at the back of the engine. And............for your particular engine, if you put the timing light pickup on the #6 plug wire instead of #1, it'll give you exactly the same readings and be more convenient to use with less chance of chewing up the wire with a spinning belt or pulley. Give it a try
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bwinn wrote: