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GT40 EFI starting issue

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    Posted: July-08-2022 at 11:21am
I know this is the 2nd GT40 staring issue, but mine is unrelated to TigerDyne's issue so I'm staring a new thread.

Background:
Newly rebuilt GT40 with 18 hours. 

Ran fine until last Friday (except for hard starts when engine was hot after sitting).

Saturday morning I went to crank it, it started immediately and ran for 5 seconds then died. Would sound like it would about to start when cranking but would not. 

Troubleshooting steps:
Drained FCC. Then turned ignition to prime. I DO hear LP pump prime and can then drain a full FCC. So the LP pump is working I believe.

INTERESTING NOTE: After draining and refilling FCC, the engine cranks and runs for about 4 seconds before dying again. Subsequent attempts do not start at all.

Ordered a HP pump from Skidim. Replaced this morning. Engine cranked again for 4 seconds and died. Was able to start it a second time for 4 seconds. But now it wont start at all. 

I have triple checked the Kill Switch and even placed a dime to ensure it is depressed. I have replaced both fuel relays. 

Last interesting note: If I press the schrader valve on the fuel rail immediately after starting, then a good squirt of gas comes out. But if I wait 10 mins after last cranking attempt, almost nothing comes out. Could the injectors be leaking and if so could they be suspect? Injectors were tested during rebuild and not replaced.

I'm at a loss about what to do next. I do have a spare LP fuel pump on the shelf, but I don't want to start randomly replacing parts unless it makes sense.

Gary, Ken, others, impart your deep wisdom on what you would do next!

(Also, I have a spare ECU as well. Could this smell of an ECU issue? I find it wierd that after draining and refilling FCC, that it always starts for a few seconds.)
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote JayG80 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: July-08-2022 at 11:46am
You should measure fuel pressure to help trouble shoot.  How old is LP pump?  It can be weak and still make noise. There is a screen inside the LP pump that you can inspect for debris. I would replace if pump is old..  LP is prone to failure at some point
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Canuck-Surfer Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: July-08-2022 at 1:28pm
Fuel rail pressure is 40 psi.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Gary S Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: July-08-2022 at 1:36pm
Check the lp pump like above and check the anti siphon valve for crud. If you do a search I posted like a 6 page how to service that lp pump. Like said they don't last forever and yours being a 96 and all.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Canuck-Surfer Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: July-08-2022 at 2:12pm
OK I will totally do this. Just quick question, where is the anti-siphon valve?
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Gary S Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: July-08-2022 at 2:37pm
It is inside the fitting that the hose connects to on the gas tank.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote MrMcD Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: July-08-2022 at 4:56pm
40 PSI Fuel pressure confirmed???   IF 40 PSI holds while cranking the engine he has fuel.  Pumps are working.  The way he describes it starting and then dieing says the pumps might stop once the engine starts.  Watch the FP and see what happens before tearing into other issues.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote KENO Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: July-08-2022 at 8:03pm
I'd probably try something free and easy and unplug the lanyard/kill switch connector and jump the 2 wires together in case the switch itself is bad even though it's depressed like it should be

Then you can put the dime back in your pocket  .Wink
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (1) Thanks(1)   Quote Canuck-Surfer Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: July-10-2022 at 1:42pm
Kill switch bypassed…no change.

I located the anti-siphon valve. I’m about to remove it and check it. Also the fuel screen they can get gummed up…is that on the other end of the pick up tube in the tank or is it in the low pressure fuel pump? If it’s in the tank I’m guessing I have to pull the tank out to be able to lift it out. I don’t see much clearance from where the fuel connecter goes into the top of the tank to remove it.

Once I eliminate the anti-siphon valve and the low pressure fuel pump, I’m guessing my next troubleshooting would be the TFI?
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote JayG80 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: July-10-2022 at 1:48pm
There is a screen inside the LP pump.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Canuck-Surfer Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: July-10-2022 at 3:56pm
Ok, so I removed the ASV and there as a little bit of debris on its screen. The ball valve moved very easily both by pushing it and by sucking. I don’t think the spring is gummed up. I’ve replaced the high pressure and low pressure fuel pump now. Only thing I’ve had to buy is the high-pressure everything else I already had sitting on the shelf. I’ve also replaced the relays. I’m guessing my next step is the TFI? Could this possibly be a computer issue? I do have a spare ECM on the shelf but it doesn’t seem to be an ECM issue if it can fire up and run for a few seconds. I haven’t gotten it to actually fire and run for five seconds today which is first.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Canuck-Surfer Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: July-10-2022 at 5:24pm
Swapped out ECM to my spare. No change. Local parts store has TFI module in stock. Will pick it up tomorrow morning and try it.

Side note: while cranking I am getting exhaust smoke out the back so I do have some form of combustion occurring.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote JayG80 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: July-10-2022 at 8:18pm
When you put in the new HPP, did you change or at least inspect for cracks the 2.5” hose? The high pressure pump is suspended by that small fuel line.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote JayG80 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: July-10-2022 at 8:32pm
Originally posted by JayG80 JayG80 wrote:

When you put in the new HPP, did you change or at least inspect for cracks the 2.5” hose? The high pressure pump is suspended by that small fuel line.

Edit, when mine split it would run up to 1500 rpm and not rev beyond that.  So maybe not your issue.  Also, be aware there is a retrofit for the wires on top of FCC to prevent fuel leak around wires.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Canuck-Surfer Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: July-10-2022 at 9:48pm
I think the tube has been changed before. Its black and looks to be in good condition. I’m going to borrow the fuel pressure metre for my buddy again tomorrow and confirm that I’m getting the correct 39 psi on the new HP pump. I’m beginning to think I have an ignition issue and not a fuel issue.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Gary S Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: July-10-2022 at 10:04pm
Here are the part numbers for the TFI module- 
As a side note though I'm leaning toward the PIP sensor inside the distributor and here's why. I had an late 80's something Mercury Topaz that was running fine. Shut it off when we had got home- the next day went to leave and it was no start. Had no spark so I went through the tests and it was the TFI. In your case it's actually starting and then shutting off right?  The PIP sensor is the sensor that tells the ECM that yes the engine is running much like a crankshaft position sensor which other manufacturers used. It seems to be a usual suspect when the engine does not run. Usually people change out the whole distributor assy. I realize your in Canada but this is what you need- cast gear.  http://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/ford,1995,f-350,5.8l+v8,1126910,ignition,distributor,7108 None of these including the OEM ones are marine,the cap is vented and that vent needs to be siliconed up.

  
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Canuck-Surfer Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: July-10-2022 at 10:06pm
Yep. That’s what I used to get the TFI from my part store. I’m picking it up at 10 o’clock tomorrow morning. So you agree it could be the TFI Gary?
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Gary S Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: July-10-2022 at 10:29pm
Oops added more info while you were typing. Not sure see above.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Gary S Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: July-10-2022 at 10:32pm
Lets see if Ken or gundriver agrees....
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Canuck-Surfer Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: July-11-2022 at 12:36am
Originally posted by Gary S Gary S wrote:


Here are the part numbers for the TFI module- 
As a side note though I'm leaning toward the PIP sensor inside the distributor and here's why. I had an late 80's something Mercury Topaz that was running fine. Shut it off when we had got home- the next day went to leave and it was no start. Had no spark so I went through the tests and it was the TFI. In your case it's actually starting and then shutting off right?  The PIP sensor is the sensor that tells the ECM that yes the engine is running much like a crankshaft position sensor which other manufacturers used. It seems to be a usual suspect when the engine does not run. Usually people change out the whole distributor assy. I realize your in Canada but this is what you need- cast gear.  http://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/ford,1995,f-350,5.8l+v8,1126910,ignition,distributor,7108 None of these including the OEM ones are marine,the cap is vented and that vent needs to be siliconed up.


A few notes here, prior to today, on first start she would run for a few seconds. Subsequent start attempts would turn over but not start. Played with her for 2 hours today. Never started, just turned over and sounded like she would want to start. Lots of exhaust fumes so we are getting combustion.

The disty idea is novel. However, the disty, cap and rotor were all new when the engine was rebuilt last summer (28 hours ago). It was a motorcraft with metal gear. Could it realistically fail this soon?

Lastly, what should the tach/rpm’s show while cranking but not running yet? The tach is mostly pegged out or swinging wildly all over the place. Is this normal or is this possibly a clue?
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote KENO Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: July-11-2022 at 7:37am
I think a wacko tacho might be telling you something Wink

I'd disconnect it at the coil and see what happens.

And I'd try the new TFI module too
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Canuck-Surfer Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: July-11-2022 at 9:41am
Keno, what might the tach be telling me? I don’t follow.
I will replace the TFI this morning and disconnect the tach and reboot back. Fingers crossed.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote KENO Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: July-11-2022 at 1:42pm
Originally posted by Canuck-Surfer Canuck-Surfer wrote:

Keno, what might the tach be telling me? I don’t follow.
 

It shouldn't be bouncing or pegged so if it's malfunctioning and grounding itself it'll cause problems because it's also grounding the ignition coil since the signal is from the negative post of the coil, and a grounded coil doesn't like to make a spark.

Disconnecting it just takes one possibility out of the picture.Wink
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Canuck-Surfer Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: July-11-2022 at 2:39pm
No good news to report. New TFI didn’t change anything. :(

Keno, you say to disconnect the tachometer from the coil but it’s just a plug. Can I just disconnect it from the back of the tack? Or is there an easy way to disconnect just the tach from the coil that I’m not getting?

Fuel pressure is 39 pounds through entire cranking attempt.

If I had any hair left to fill out I would pull it out. I’m at a lost guys. I guess my next things are try to disconnect the tach like Ken said and then find another distributor? I hate just throwing parts of this thing.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Canuck-Surfer Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: July-11-2022 at 2:42pm
Also, Like yesterday she’s no longer starting and running for five seconds. The engine turns over and over but never gets going. When I release the key she does roughly rumble for two or three RPMs before dying.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote JayG80 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: July-11-2022 at 4:09pm
Here are some data points on fuel pressure from my 2002 GT 40.

Key On & Engine Off fuel pressure is 39 psi, turned off the key and at 8 minutes later the pressure had dropped to 35 psi, and then dropped to 18 psi after sitting for a total of 15 minutes. 

Started Engine in the water, 2,000 rpm while in neutral and the pressure is 35 psi.  Turned off the engine and pressure leaked down to 32 psi, at 2 minutes it was 25 psi, at 3 minutes it was 20 psi, at 4 minutes it was 15 psi. 

Started boat again and and at 2,000 rpm in neutral I pulled the vacuum line and the fuel pressure went to 39 psi. 

Ran boat in the lake at around 3,500 rpm and fuel pressure was 40 psi.

Edit: Notes from 2015 fuel pressures recorded when troubleshooting performance issues, turned out to be a bad muffler baffle.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Canuck-Surfer Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: July-11-2022 at 4:12pm
The service manual also states that pumps primed and attempting start should be 39 pounds plus or minus. So my pressure is fine. I’m moving on to something else at this point.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Canuck-Surfer Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: July-11-2022 at 6:54pm
Originally posted by Gary S Gary S wrote:


Here are the part numbers for the TFI module- 
As a side note though I'm leaning toward the PIP sensor inside the distributor and here's why. I had an late 80's something Mercury Topaz that was running fine. Shut it off when we had got home- the next day went to leave and it was no start. Had no spark so I went through the tests and it was the TFI. In your case it's actually starting and then shutting off right?  The PIP sensor is the sensor that tells the ECM that yes the engine is running much like a crankshaft position sensor which other manufacturers used. It seems to be a usual suspect when the engine does not run. Usually people change out the whole distributor assy. I realize your in Canada but this is what you need- cast gear.  http://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/ford,1995,f-350,5.8l+v8,1126910,ignition,distributor,7108 None of these including the OEM ones are marine,the cap is vented and that vent needs to be siliconed up.

  


Gary, I got the gray TFI this morning. I had also seen Keith’s original post in the Poormans thread that listed the same part number. But tonight and reading further down through the Poormans thread it looks like I should’ve gotten the black TFI. Is there any reason why you specifically posted the gray one above?
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote KENO Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: July-11-2022 at 7:13pm
Sorta sounds like you and Jay might be agreeing that your fuel pressure is good Wink

His numbers all sound right in accordance with the manual  and the way the system operates.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Canuck-Surfer Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: July-11-2022 at 7:33pm
Yeah, I posted while in the boat all grumpy when the TFI didn't solve anything. I appreciate the numbers.
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