1978 Ski Nautique Restoration

To stop creating thread after thread for every issue that comes up, I'm starting this one for everything related to this project

Brief history:
'78 Nautique w/351 RH restoration -2 years in.
It was in very bad shape including a fried engine. Got a block from an '80 and sent off for machining. It's a stock rebuild.
Installed new flooring and reinforced the stringers.
Re-upholstered w/new carpet.
All new gauges, including new wiring using bus bars up front. Dual GPS speedos as well.
If time permits, the outside will get a makeover too. Gelcoat, paint and 2k clear is ready to go. Even got a transom stencil made.

The pre-assembly checklist appears complete but one thing that wasn't considered was the circulating pump. What is the service life for this part and can a visual inspection tell you anything?
And what about an auto one?

How about a picture of this thing?

Pictures...............see the link and read the 2 posts on 2/7/23. I'm pretty sure you can handle it.

Did a '78 Nautique have a fuel filter/separator from the factory?  I was guessing it was probably added but not sure.

SHAFT/ENGINE ALIGNMENT
I'm researching quite a bit on this subject; the ccfan youtube video is outstanding. The marina that pulled the engine cited an oddity with alignment, but couldn't recall exactly what it was when I was finally able to go retrieve the engine, so I expect a problem right off the bat. Any advice on what to what to look for, and how to address problems that arise?

Far as alignment goes, ron tanis has some very good videos on the subject.
Start fresh with new cutlas bearings in the strut.

Hopefully not but expect a bent shaft, or strut.

Alignment is critical but easy to achieve if you know the basics and all of the parts are in good order, and you got solid stringers.
I'll try to dig up a picture of the procedure.

Does the boat have new stringers ? Who put them in ?
All things being equal, the traditional alignment you read and watch videos about is just the accepted method, but alignment is alignment and there are other ways to achieve it.

Get some pictures up, there's great wealth of knowledge on this site and plenty of members who can advise you on any help you may need



https://youtu.be/UEqzJgCz_6w

wayoutthere wrote: Alignment is critical but easy to achieve if you know the basics and all of the parts are in good order, and you got solid stringers. I'll try to dig up a picture of the procedure. Does the boat have new stringers ?

The stringers weren't replaced as they're in remarkably good shape; and I was actually unaware of any relationship between the two.
Quite surprisingly, the rot did not propogate throughout so it was easy to localize. I exposed the bad areas with pilot holes and poured a pmma acrylic solution in multiple stages until saturated with the fluid pooling at the top. Those areas now are hard as rock. I definitely dodged a bullet there.

MrMcD wrote: I did the same in my 1987 Malibu, found small rot area under the engine mounts, drilled holes, first poured in a product bought at the lumber supply designed to kill rot, really stinky stuff.   Let that soak in to treat the old wood then filled it as you did with some type of recommended epoxy.   That area was still hard and good when I sold the boat 10 years later after hundreds more hours use.

I was thinking of using bigger lags for a greater purchase into the stringers. What are your thoughts on also filling the bores with epoxy putty and using 5200 under the brackets?

Jonny Quest wrote: Can you through-bolt it?  I prefer through-bolts to lags if possible  I would then bed the bolts in 3M 4200. JQ

I agree 100% that thru-bolt is the best way to go, but I'd have to cut up sections of the floor and rip out foam for access and I'm running out of time...but perhaps I will.
I thought the only difference with 4200 was cure time. Is it a more friendly version too?

NeilMcG wrote: Jonny Quest wrote: Can you through-bolt it?  I prefer through-bolts to lags if possible  I would then bed the bolts in 3M 4200. JQ I agree 100% that thru-bolt is the best way to go, but I'd have to cut up sections of the floor and rip out foam for access and I'm running out of time...but perhaps I will. I thought the only difference with 4200 was cure time. Is it a more friendly version too?

4200 is easier to work with after it hardens.  5200 is harder, in my thoughts stronger but a bugger to work with once hard.   Since I was able to remove my strut factory applied with 5200 I chose to stay with it and 5200 was applied when I re installed the strut.  Many use 4200 because it is more friendly to work with.

That's a relief.

wayoutthere wrote: Far as alignment goes, ron tanis has some very good videos on the subject. Start fresh with new cutlas bearings in the strut.

What's your opinion regarding installing a new coupler?

How does one know it's bad? I'm already in recovery for sadism, and the romance of tackling miserable jobs is diminishing by the hour.