Shaft Rotation

the strut bushing will cause some friction since it is dry.

Thanks for the replies! I appreiciate your help very much.

Jerry

USCG Retired, Litchfield CT

there is a $40 strut bushing in the strut that has a recommended replacement interval of 300 hours. it is lubricated by the water.

if your prop shaft is out, you can inspect the bushing for wear. it is held in by a couple very small set screws in the strut housing. DON'T STRIP THEM. them there is a special tool to remove the bushing, but it is not a necessity. if it has siezed in the housing , but some proper size washers and some all thread will get it out. you may have two 2.5" or one 5" section.

i would not judge it by a spin test. if you boat has been out of the water, the rubber will deteriorate from exposure. if you do remove it, a little never sieze will make 'the next time' easier.

the hardcore racers run a fiber bushing.   

While we are talking packing box shaft seals.

I installed teflon packing material in both the prop and rudder shaft seals about 10 years ago and have been very pleased. There is far less friction and no grease is required. Also, after it "breaks in", there has been less adjustments needed. (Compared to the original).

I'm using 1/4"dia smooth rope style bought from WW Grainger.

regards
Al

elberts.com


notes........

soak the small set screws on the strut and shaft flange in pb-blaster for a couple days first.

use the biggest screw driver that will fit on the strut.

removing the rudder makes the job easier.

if the set pins on the prop flange are siezed, i would just cut the shaft off and buy a double taper shaft from elberts. i trashed every drill bit i owned drilling a broke set pin out.

replace all the flax packing while everything is out.

never-sieze on everything as it goes back together.

do a preliminary engine alignment when you reinstall the shaft and do a final alignment with the boat in the water.

i still support skidim for elberts products. vince and richard are an asset to the inboard community.

tryan wrote: hitting reverse pulls on the set pins on a single taper shaft. this will wear a little groove in the soft stainless steel. once the shaft can start working back and forth from the forward/reverse cycles it will wear on the flange bore and cause vibration

I just happened to run across this old thread that a member was reading. I'd like to comment regarding Thomas's statement about the coupling set screw before the wrong idea is conveyed. First, the set screws are secondary to retaining the shaft and only there if the coupling/shaft become loose due to fretting from misalignment. Second is keep in mind that the shaft is primarily retained by the heat shrink fit of the coupling. Also, don't forget there's a key between the coupling and shaft.