Distributor

Bill,
My 16' Mustang turns the 12x14 5200 and tops out easily at 56 mph. With an increase in HP which I feel is similar to what BC is looking for, +/- 70 HP, I picked up roughly 10 mph top speed which I'm definitely satisfied with, but the biggest difference is in the pull, throttle response and acceleration to top speed. If you could give me a call sometime, I'd like to pick your brain on the nitrous.
I've given up on making the old-style Mustang run any faster, as it's a borderline dangerous submarine now, but I'd still like to push an older Nautique closer to the limit. The pre-1970's Nautiques we have, virtually possess no hook in the hull, ride bow high, and thus do run quick with minimal HP, (46-48 with 318/210HP Chry). I'd like to see one of these boats with 400+HP. Please don't tell me to get a race boat. That's too practical.

Nope, not yet, but the 413 Mopar marine is making its way east. I guess you picked up on my 400hp comment.    

Bill, Thanks.
Couple of questions. When you say "the water wants to be a couple of feet from the transom...", are you referring to the where the spray starts to angle up from the chine where it breaks the water surface under full power? If so, this boat is falling way short of the mark, as it's probably closer to 4-5'. It's got enough of a bow-down attitude that you can't make this boat porpoise at full speed unless you have at least two full size adults in the rear seat. I'll just close the book on this hull and be happy with the decent speed it runs now, except to at least look at the prop positioning relative to the strut and hull bottom, where I know I'm not quite up to the spec's you mentioned in both respects.

As for adding speed to the '61-'69 vintage Nautiques, which I think is a more feasible and easier target, is that the wooden spray rail you were referring to removing, (or not replacing)? The Mustangs didn't have them as an add-on fortunately. I've got the orange '67 SN project shown in the diaries with the spray rails currently removed. But it sure can be a wet ride without it at idle speeds. However, if its worth a couple MPH, I can live with a little water in the face, plus replacing them won't be the funnest chore anyway, as opposed to just patching the holes.

Also I noticed, and this is totally personal taste, or lack thereof, that this original vintage SN hull doesn't look totally ridiculous or incomplete with the windshield left off, as there's no obvious raised decking screaming "missing winshield". I wouldn't dare consider this on any other CC hulls. (I can already see the raised eyebrows of the purests). I've got the nice two-piece plexiglass windshield with this one, but it was sorta neat taking a few rides without it and having some wind in your face, plus my wife wants to hear nothing of a Jersey Speed Skiff. There was a young man at the FLA reunion a few years back who restored a bright yellow and white SN like this which was rather retro and really sharp. Maybe someone saw it.

You guys are hard core speed freaks, Which fits right in with me. Tryan I'm a little confused on the flapper's. Currently I have the hinged area of the flapper horizontal, parralel to the deck. Do I need to rotate them or add screws to the inside to keep it closed? (CL of boat)so that it opens to the outside of the haul. I'm assuming the 4160 is a 600cfm carb and my dad say's there is no power valve to jack with. He rebuilt it last season and said read just the idle mixture screws and then get a plug check after running it a 1/2 hour. My dad said not to worry about the carb being 600 verses a 650, I would loose a little power but not enough to worry about.

Oh by the way the long block got delivered yesterday. Thought I was going to be able to uncover the boat and pull the seats and motor box cover and get it ready to take it in to the shop but it snowed again last night after the rain had washed away all the old snow away.

Well the dist and new coil won't be in for a couple of weeks anyway. I guest my MSD blaster II coil burns up the ignition module in the dist I'm using so I have to get a mallory promaster series to use. Any one nees a Blaster II coil?

79 , are you going to use a stiffer dampner plate? are we having fun yet?

I am assumeing you are speaking about the flaps on the end of the exhaust when siting in the water. They are to keep the water from backing up the pipes. Some of the older boats used manifolds that were lower than the stringers and would and did siphon up water and put it in the engine.

if your going to slap the holley down on an edlebrock performer 2181 or rpm, you will need the adaptor plate to seal up the bottom of the holley. skidim and the local auto parts will have one.

do you have the carb base with the pvc port?

Leave them alone.

I've all ready ordered the mallory unit. The MSD listed is not marine anyway, it says it is but if it was it would have a 6 on the end and be 5 digits not four. All ready looked into MSD which was my first choice but they only make a chevy and clevland versions unless they have released a 351W in the last two weeks.