Winterization

87BFN owner wrote: Pete, was that you or some one else using your name, suggesting Tim pull his tranny and have the case chromed. Doesn't sound storck or period correct to me. Just teasing you a little bit.

That was indeed me! The comment was made that there was some rust on his trans so I was giving Tim a hard time! He, being such a meticulous person plus all his projects look so good that I needed to comment! I also thought it would compliment the exhaust pipe job he has done!

stang72 wrote: Fair enough Ryan Sense 79 was'nt around , I had to be the bad guy!

Hey Gary, you have started to spell like Chris too!!!! "Sence 79 was'nt around"

no harm done.........heres another tip.....move south as the doc would say!..as for me i will enjoy the winter. gives me time to come up with some new plans /ideas and get some house work done..time to clean all the boats seats again and give all equipment a nice cleaning also..

You are correct on the heater core James, it is a good idea to disconnect the supply and return and blow through them with your lungs to purge all water first.

If equipped with a shower I run the pump to drain the water out of that system as well before filling with A/F.

There are a couple more items I can add, on the newer boats (in the trunk of our 206) is an ECM (I think that's what it's called), the speedo water lines go to this module, they should be disconnected to drain properly, it is also a good idea to completely remove the module and store indoors.

What can help lengthen the life of the steering cable is to spin the wheel back and forth several times every couple weeks to help keep the cable lubed.

Don't forget the bounce dryer sheets throughout to keep the mice away.


I followed Eddie's sequence for many years without incident, on my current boat I now drain everything first and then run A/F through the system while running the engine.
I also like to change the oil before the final running to ensure fresh oil is in the crankcase for the last time it runs.

Here is a question for Eric:
Recently read a post saying "overfill the tranny with fluid for layup, basically the entire case, then drain to the proper level in the Spring", what do you think, good or bad idea?

I change my oil when I winterize it, how many guys change it again in the spring when they get it out?

I do not change my oil in the fall. The additives in oil are much better than they used to be, but they still break down. I feel much better having fresh oil in the spring, when the engine is going to be ran, rather than fresh oil for storage.   The situation would be different if I knew my engine had problems leading to contaminants in the oil.

quinner wrote: You are core James, it is a good idea to blow them all first. I pump that system well before filling the trunk (I think that's what it's called) to drain properly. What can help lengthen the life of the cable is to spin back and forth several times every couple weeks to help keep lubed. Don't bounce. I followed Eddie's sequence for many years without incident, I now drain first and I also like to crank for the last time. what do you think, good or bad idea?

I can tell by your bitterness it's probably really skinny, but small enough to refer to it as a "cable". Wow, now I really feel sorry for you.

87
Don't like to see the forcasted 37 degrees coming thursday night. brrrrrrrr
I don't even want to think that the boat is ready for it's winter prep.
Don't even say it jbear
Lefty

My question still remains does anyone also change it again in the spring before use. As the oil has sat for 3-5 months for those of us that do not live in the south, (jbear,MM,Backfoot,Boat Doc) to name a few. Thus while sitting it has been breaking down, and built up condensation.

Tull,
Not winterizing yet just asking a few questions, we are skiing friday. Plus I promise one of the boats wont be winterized alteast until November 1st. I owe Hollywood a pic of me skiing without a wetsuit in October. I am shooting for the 31st.

Pete I re-read the post and it looks ok to me??? Love the edit function!

Quinner, youve learned well young Luke, fill the trans to the top and drain in the spring, it helps prevent rust build up in the case and helps keep the seals saturated in oil

phospher wrote: - Drain water from block, waterpump, and exhaust manifolds. How do I know it's all been drained? When I pull the plugs I assume that water will run out but won't a little bit be left behind? -

-Don't forget to drain the water from the transmission oil cooler. TRBenj shows it in his photos on the first page of this thread. there is a drain plug on the cooler.

TRBenj wrote: ...but its easier just to pull the lower hose off.

okay- Just don't want the guy to miss it.

20th Century wrote: Quick question. I only put 5 or 6 hours on my boat this season. Didn't get it functional until mid August. I probably won't put more than 25 hours on it next season. I am seriously considering not changing the oil. It has been in there since last fall, but the engine made such good pressure and the oil is the older stock rotella 15/40 with all the zinc. Being a diesel oil it should be loaded with detergents. What do you think?

I'm with you. I'll have about 10 hours of use on my oil, which is Valvoline Racing oil. I'd think the chemists that worked on the detergent formulas would quit their jobs if they heard we changed the oil after 10 hours, feeling that all their work was for nothing . Mine will stay in until mid summer next year.

Hey Lefty;

How's the weather? Not to cold here yet.....88 today.

How is the wing doing? Cast off yet?

john