alternator upgrade

79nautique wrote: what style distributor do you have? points? converted? replacement electronic?

Funny you should ask...I just ordered the HEI/DUI that was reccomended in another thread. After he got my engine info, he asked where I'd heard of them. He was happy to hear that several guys here were happy to have 1/some.

It's an AM/FM/CD 40Wx4 head unit(no external amp), enough for me. The FM & CD are fine. It's only the AM with the static interferance. Thanks again for the info. I'll try to catch up on my reading...and I appreciate the help getting it together now. I'm guessing the 55 amp is enough since noone freaked?

79nautique wrote: the better question is why are you listening to AM radio

Not so often in the boat, but there are a few shows I hate to miss!

There is an inline filter available for splicing into the power lead that feeds your radio. Also, make sure you are running resistor type plugs and wires. If you are using an amp, make sure your RCA cables aren't too close to any other power carrying leads. If it's AM only, chances are it's coming from the ignition. If it's AM and FM it could (and probably is) coming from the alternator. There's a capacitor available for the alternator as well. You can google this subject and find lots of info.

Brian, you went over my head?!!? LOL I'm about to google 'diode' and find out what it is and does. If both alt's work with the distributer I want(DUI), then I may need the 3-wire...I have an idiot light for oil pressure, temp, and voltage as well as the gauge for all 3.

Edit-OK, a diode is a check valve for electricity...I almost have a handle on it.

Okay my electrical history knowledge is a bit lacking and thanks for the lesson. But my theory and practical application are pretty good.

Greg you can use either the 3 wire or the one wire with the HEI. The 3 wire just uses a sense line to check battery voltage and adjust alt output. It's the #2 wire (small) that pluds into the voltage regulator (internal). This wire also serves as the excitation circuit for the field. You can wire it directly to the ignition switch through a diode. The arrow on the diode neeeds to point toward the alternator (not the ign switch). The alt does not need to supply the coil with a ground. Nor does it need an input from the coil, just the switch. The #1 wire is not required. It's used to supply the idiot light in a car.

Pete's got it Brian...meant as a compliment and thanks for the info!

By the way, what is Tesla?

Greg, do a search on e-bay for GM 10SI or 12SI. The 12SI is a little larger and is originally built to handle an honest 100 amps (although some are available rated at less). If you don't find a 12SI the 10SI will do just fine. Also, if all you find is the automobile ones, you can purchase the screens and make it marine approved. I did the same thing with mine. The same screens for the 10SI also fits the 12SI. I'll be right back with some links for you.

TRBenj wrote: Have you put a meter on the output terminal like Nutty suggested? It should always be putting out 12-14V.

I "believe" you don't have a problem at all. The gauge lies the wiring is too small and once you get some dirt corrosion going on at the connections it gets even worse.

Thread jack; Mike where have you been? Haven't seen ya on for a while. Hope all is ok up there in DC.

john

Agreed! Indeed check your connections (dirty or lose). Several threads on this site talk about inadequate wire size to the dash like Tim said. But first, verify that you do have a problem before you go replacing anything.

BF86, my knowledge of wiring configurations from year to year on Correct Craft boats is limited but my working knowledge of electrical systems is very strong. So here are some questions for you. Is your alternator original? Does your boat use a volt meter or amp meter? Have you checked the voltage at the B+ terminal of the alternator or battery with a digital volt meter? Have you added any other electrical loads to the system (like a sound system)?

If you want to upgrade, in my opinion, there is no better choice (considering cost, ease of installation, ect,...) than the GM 10 or 12SI series alternators. You can pick one of these up for less than 100 bucks and that's one that will put out 100 amps. If your boat uses a voltmeter, there are no upgrades required for the dash.

Post back with some answers and that will give us a good starting point.