A buffalo’s first bowtie

fuel, just bustin your marbles this morning...the fuel lines normally seal on a taper and sealant is not required
nothing, make sure they fit and seal on a taper though

look inside the female fitting for the taper, and the male also will have a taper to seat on the female taper. usually the tube will go thru the fitting and then you flare it, the flare is the seal and if this is what you have then you do not need sealant

Pete, I think he is talking about the line from the pump to the carb??? somtimes those fittings may seem like pipe.....greg can you take a pic?
the hundreds of times i've removed teflon tape from that line

I picked up the 2 fittings I think yall are referring to this morning. It's a reducer and the 1/4"brake line fitting. AZone is the only place open today and I'm wondering if the performance shop will have 1 fitting that takes the place of the 2 I have. The line I'm using has formed flares and fittings...I also leaned how to make a flare. LOL I bent the line last night before I realized I needed the seat fitting and it was just right...for a moment! Now those fittings have pushed the union back(twards the thermostat) where it's hard to get that short 90 degree bend. There's room for the cooling hose like it is in the pic, but it would rub. I'll see what the go-fast store has tomorrow. He has a separate room full of expensive fittings for any part of a car...better not take much money?!!?

Oh man, i hope you dont get pulled over by the Coast Guard

I know you are the type that lets something go around and around and over and over again,
what a way to start a monday morning....everything looks like it is "by the book"

8122pbrainard wrote: Greg, Eric is up to his normal "pulling your chain" routine!! Now if you had used rubber hose and hose clamps, then you would need to be worried about the Coast Gaurd!

Something along the lines of the 'shark suits' I put in another thread?

Eric, you're just subtle enough to get me going...but I should know better by now?!!? And coming from a guy who paints over transmission ID tags! LOL

I asked one of my first real bosses years ago why he picked on me all the time. He said I shouldn't worry about that, but that I should worry when he quit picking on me!

I paintd over mine all you have to do is just wipe it down with some thinner after you paint it and before it dry's

Touche` !

If I'm reading the trans ratio right you should be able to get a houseboat to bunny hop out of the hole. LOL

Anything I should know about painting my alternator?

Pete, you're a pal?!!? LOL

I should've been more specific. Can it be painted without taking it apart? Is it ok for a little paint to get inside the case? I know how to remove the pulley and fan, but that's it.

You did Pete...and I did paint the inside of my hand once! That was a few weeks ago though, and life seems to be marching on.

FWIW-I know I ask a lot of questions, and you probably know that I'm not on a first name basis with electricity by now. I just wanted to make sure. Before I did any painting, I looked for a book on the subject, googled, and tried the seach feature here. No luck, at least for a detailed step-by-step. I put alternator in our search here a couple of weeks ago and got 0 results?!!? Must've been a fluke.

OCD...a blessing and a curse!   LOL

"Must've been a fluke." You do know that Fluke is the largest manufacturer of electrical measuring devices!!!

Put some dielectric grease on the terminal under the rubber boot and it will be fine. You won't have any leaks anyway - correct?!! The aluminum manifold won't be a issue ether. If it does corrode a little, it will only be at the edges. If you ever did have problems, the first thing to do is grab the Fluke and measure resistence at the temp sender.

Motor looks awesome Greg.

john

Time to go see about itchy and scratchy?!!?