What do my plugs say?

They say AC Delco goes in a GM, Autolite plugs for FoMoCo engines.
other than that , it appears they are oil soaked, the oil film on the treads, and possible rich condition also.
float level too high,choke not opening.
Run a compression test,looks like it needs to see a Doctor.............boar dr    

boat dr wrote: They say AC Delco goes in a GM, Autolite plugs for FoMoCo engines. other than that , it appears they are oil soaked, the oil film on the treads, and possible rich condition also. float level too high,choke not opening. Run a compression test,looks like it needs to see a Doctor.............boar dr

I replaced the plugs with autolite 24s. I think it is running rich. That will have to be my next task.

But what causes the oil soak?

I had a compression test, the numbers were not that good on one side.

Jared

sjpitts wrote: [QUOTE=boat dr] But what causes the oil soak?

it looks like realy only one plug has an oil issue. This can be caused by a couple of things. A leaky valve cover and the oil is running to that plug and whicking thru the threads, not likely.

Another is the valve guide seal is worn and oil is leaking into the cyl thru the valve stem/guide.

Or it could be a bad oil ring on the piston for the cylinder.

usually you can use a little hotter plug in the cylinder with the oil leak to help keep it burnt off untill the rest of the engine goes and you need to rebuild it's strickly a temporary band-aid

If you can cross match to an NGK plug you might give that a shot. They are by far and away the best plugs on the market, IMHO. But as stated above a shot at an angle showing more of the ceraminc insulator would tell more.

gigem75, put those NGK plug in you Honda lawnmore or your Toyota truck, but don't tell him to follow in your wake of oblivion.
That motor,Ford , will run at its peak with the parts that came from the factory,any moron can see they are oil fouled. And seeing more of the insulator wont help the condition of the rings or other issues related to mechanical integrity .
NGK Plugs ain't gonna fix it BUBBA...............boat dr

btw, my lawnmower is a 1968 International Harvester Cub Cadet. I wonder how it lasted so long???? hummm

1970 911T, runs perfectly, can you tune 6 downdrafts?

1980 240D running on B-100, wonder who makes that? better yet who maintains it.

ah crap, I own a rice burner pickup, wonder how it got to 200K?

82 01 tique, 351w pcm, totally rebuilt 2 years ago by guess who? It's the simplest engine I own.

Doc it's funny you guys chatting about Ben'z, My girlfriend's Dad has a late model Ben'z SUV which he hates and which he'll never buy another Ben'z of any model. The service guys at the dealer and the charges should be a law for that,

I personally use NGK plugs in my wife's Denali with a 6.0 and used them in my previous truck which also had a 6.0 and they worked great and smoothed out the idle. I also have used them in all of my motorcycles and jetskis with great results.

With that being said, when my last set of heads were still on the boat (GT40 351W) right after I installed them I expirimented with three different sets of plugs which were Bosch, NGK, and splitfires. The Bosch plugs started OK but the engine felt very flat and sounded weird. The splitfires kept fouling and was not happy. The NGK plugs in this particular application idled extremely rough and the engine was very hard to start cold. I went back to the double platinum autolites and those have worked the best for me. Hope that helps.

Thanks!

I can see I'm going to have to talk very simply here. He can also have a burned valve. He has low compression on one side remember????? Squirting oil in the cylinder is a diagnostic tool that will tell him if he does. If you read that as me telling him that would fix his problem then all I can say here is what we have is failure to communicate and it ain't me.   I can't say that any simpler. Like I said it's probably time for a rebuild but he'll have a better idea of what to expect from someone who might try and rip him off and NGK plugs might run a little better until he does rebuild.
You can't see squat on the plugs on the upper left except an underexposed tip that looks black with no detail. Go run your boat with the choke engaged for an hour, chop, and photograph, post photos, we'll see..........

Let's see here,, you've attacked me just about every way possible, I can't wait to see what are you going to do for an encore!

That really cracks me up. both of you are showing your as%, not to mention letting your emotions, four letter words, and smack talk predicate your views rather than give a rational and reasoned argument as to why you think NGK plugs suck. So far all you've done is give a third grade response to statement I made that In My Humble Opinion IMHO get it? go back and read the original post, the gentleman might try running an NGK plug until he rebuilds the engine. I find it truly amazing that all this sh*t has started over a comment about spark plugs. You obviously expect everyone to think like you do and that ain't gonna happen. If you think this is some sort of Lord of the Flies scenario where you are going to dictate what gets said and brow beat those who disagree with you into submission you got another think coming. btw, I can agree with you about the quality of some of the newer MB's but mine is a 123. If your gonna smack my car at least tell everyone the 123's were crap. It's 27 years old and I expect it to last half a million miles.
In summary I'd have to say the emotional and immature posts have been directed at me and not by me. Deal with it.

I’ll even give you the last shot at me if you promise to really read what I’ve written.

now that is funny!

79, and dr, cover your eyes, don't read this!!!

sjpitts, it sounds like your engine is on it's last legs. I probably wouldn't recommend this if it was a fresh motor but in the intrests of getting a few more hours out of your engine, heck, maybe even till the fall you might try running some
NGK Iridium IX UR4IX plugs, maybe even a 3 which is one heat range hotter. I can't guarentee this will help but what have you got to lose? That is my humble opinion. It's worked for me in the past on tired engines and it might work for you. Just trying to help.
Here is some good information on how to read a spark plug. Please note that the insulator is what you look at. I'm posting this because the title of your post is "What do my plugs say" and this information might help you out.

Q: How do I "read" a spark plug?
A: Being able to "read" a spark plug can be a valuable tuning aid. By examining the insulator firing nose color, an experienced engine tuner can determine a great deal about the engine's overall operating condition.

Q: What is a "fouled" spark plug?
A: A spark plug is considered fouled when the insulator nose at the firing tip becomes coated with a foreign substance such as fuel, oil or carbon. This coating makes it easier for the voltage to follow along the insulator nose, leach back down into the metal shell and ground out rather than bridging the gap and firing normally.

it's a diesel

great help what insight you offer on reading plugs get that info out of your MB's manual?

Doc he just keeps repeating himself and never catches on that the question was answered long before he ever stuck his foot in his mouth.

The real questions about the plugs are they designed to SAE or DIN standards, DIN. The other question is do they have the same resistance, doesn't matter what the heat range is if the resitance of the plug isn't the same as what the system is designed for then the heat range won't be the same either v=i/r correct?.

Also since it's made to a DIN standard are the theads and seat the same for the application or is the angle off a couple of degrees so that the taper doesn't seat right. What about the thread length and tip length are they the same? yea it can be changed a little to improve combustion in curtain cases or it can make it worse too. Just because it seems to work fine in your application doesn't mean it's going to work on everone's. And maybe you should stay on topic and not go off in your little world of lala land of dip sh*t's since the guy already had hot plugs with extended tips to start with. Would have rather seen AC/Delco plugs then some DIN spec POS, but again are they the same resistance that the Autolite 24's are maybe maybe not.

So the leason her is don't talk sh*t to the master of all bullsh*t especially when you have no clue who they are and what they have done. Might have forgot a few things about Ignition Systems since I haven't designed any in a couple of years but you don't forget the basics and what plug works good for a DIS system doesn't work the same for a distributor style system or a coil near plug application either and if it works fine for a GM DIS it sure as hell isn't going to work very well on a Ford DIS system, number of turns to the primary and secondary windings aren't the same and the gauge wire and internal resistance isn't either which is key for the system to work properly.

And on top of all that he sure as hell is a little slow and doesn't even know when someone is being a smart ass or starcastic(sp)

Hey Chris , You still working in Chicago ? Are you going to make it to GL.?