the long road ahead - 67 Nautique resto/mod

Mike,
The gunnel below the Morse has defiantly been cut out. A Po must have had fat hands so he would have had a hard time getting to the backside. It's tight!! Double sided tape on the end of a hacksaw blade and the nut stuck to it works wonders to get the nuts started.

The angle with the pipe welded to it I'd have to say isn't original. I've installed several pylons in 60's hulls that were dealer options. Some of the floors came from the factory with holes pre drilled in the floor and the vinyl (vinyl wall covering) just covering up the hole. I remember one that I had to drill. The pylon did not bolt to the floor and simply "floated" in the hole. A metal trim ring screwed to the floor around the hole. The bottom held the pylon with ether the clevis or the cup/pin with a bolt through it at the keel. The one install that needed the hole drilled, I think also needed the clevis glassed into the keel. I don't remember the model of the boat but maybe it was one that wasn't normally skier oriented. Others had the clevis at the keel from the factory.

whats the deal with all the steel hardware?Did they come from cc like that?

form&function wrote: whats the deal with all the steel hardware?Did they come from cc like that?

8122pbrainard wrote: The angle with the pipe welded to it I'd have to say isn't original. I've installed several pylons in 60's hulls that were dealer options. Some of the floors came from the factory with holes pre drilled in the floor and the vinyl (vinyl wall covering) just covering up the hole. I remember one that I had to drill. The pylon did not bolt to the floor and simply "floated" in the hole. A metal trim ring screwed to the floor around the hole.

Got my stringers pulled out yesterday and a lot of the glass chiesled away. I broke my 10-in-1 tool that has now done two stringer demolitions. The stringers came out intact with no cutting, so they will be good patterns for the new ones. Ordering fir in the next day or two, epoxy and glass, as well. It is supposed to be in the high 20's this Saturday so I am going to have a grinding party of one, all day. I am going to leave the wood in the transom as I think it is good. Rudder port is coming out. I had planned on doing one at a time, but decided to do what Tim is doing on the BFN and just get them all out and have a fresh canvas. The hull does not flex too much. I will be lifting it off the trailer and supporting it on stands. I measured every possible direction twice and feel confident I will have it back together better than it was. they really did just slam these things down the line and not take much care building them. One secondary is an inch longer than the other, one Primary is as much as half an inch taller in a couple spots in front of the motor.
My camera is on the blink but my brother took some pics that I will get later this week.
I plan to have the stringers completely installed in the next few weeks before the Mustang comes back home. I will make the floor and screw it down in the Spring,and start working on the interior a bit, and the motor. I will probably send it out for the body stuff late next summer. I do not think I can permanently install the floor until after the body work is done because of the way the wood spray rails need to be installed. They are semi alternately bolted from the outside, and screwed from the inside. No one has been into the floor before so it had to come that way from the factory.

As crazy as it sounds, I miss the smell of epoxy.

My goal is water ready by June of 2011.

Mike,
As long as you'r in there, I really think you should dig out that wood in the transom!! Remember the aft lifting ring goes to it. We've seen some horrible pictures/examples of not so good wood.

WakeSlayer wrote: We'll see. I will at least do the hole saw move and see what it looks like in there.

Make sure the pilot drill in the hole saw isn't extended too far.

Reminds me of the member who several years ago wanted to drill some drain holes in the bottom of his battery box. He didn't realize the bottom of the battery box was the hull of the boat!

Glad to see someones getting work done.Its so cold here I can't do anything.

Have you ordered your stringers? Can you point me to an order list for a total restring and floor? Have seen detailed glass order but not for the douglas fir.

Great thanks for that info. Now I can at least start shopping around.

WakeSlayer wrote: I have a question about cutting out the stringers. Neither mains nor secondaries are the same dimensions. they came out completely intact so I can either duplicate them as they are, or make each set match the larger of the two and then size them to my measurements once fit in the boat.

Mike,
I'd have to say it was Billy Bob at the band saw in the wood shop not keeping his eye on the pencil line. Ether that or he was doing a hull correction because Joe Bob in the mold shop goofed up the mold! I'd sure cut to the larger size, get them in the hull and start doing some measuring. It would be interesting to find out what's off with the hull!!

Mike, these boats were not precision built! I think as long as you get pretty close on the motor mount dimensions (height off hull, distance from the shaft log) so you can align it, you'll be just fine. Like Pete said, Id build to the larger one and shape from there.

TRBenj wrote: Mike, these boats were not precision built! I think as long as you get pretty close on the motor mount dimensions (height off hull, distance from the shaft log) so you can align it, you'll be just fine. Like Pete said, Id build to the larger one and shape from there.

I have all those measurements, and a million photos. I figure I don't really have a choice, anyway. She will go back together a hell of a lot better than she was.

Not obviously skewed, it had a treated ply floor screwed and nailed down over the foam. Motor was way misaligned from the mounts starting to tear out. I did not give it the marble test. Took it for what it was. This boat was supposed to become a planter, and the more I looked at it, the more I liked it and wanted to resurrect her.

It will be fine.

Hull is ground out. Took 4 solid hours. For the life of me I cannot get it as pretty as I have seen photos of on this site. I ground from 4 inches outside the outer stringer, all the way across to the other side. The bilge was gelled, that was a biatch to get off. I guess I could have ground more but did not want to remove any excess material from the structure. I used my trusty diamond wheel, and two 40 grit flap disks. What a mess. I love my respirator, goggles, and tyvek suit.

I left a ~1" lip of the old primary stringer channel and beveled it off for a smooth edge for filletting after the new stringers are installed. I ground two drain channels on each side for water relief from outbboard of the stringers.
I took the top glass cap off the rudder port and to my surprise the wood is in really good shape. Still rich colored and solid. In doing so I ended up taking the top layer of the ply off and it was a total bastard to chisel out flat. I am going to soak this in CPES a couple times, peanut butter sandwich a piece on top, and cap it back off. Even the port hole was solid with a pick in the sides of it.
The boat at some point took a fairly hard shot on the strut. There is a good sized crack on the inside that was bondoed over. This will be filled and I will lay a couple layers of heavy mat over and re-drill the holes.
I was going to drill into the transom but found no voids and am going to leave it for now. I can always go back and do that later. My goal at the moment is to get the stringers done and get it out of my shop.

My layup plan is:
bed the stringers and verify level, and measurements.
using 8.7 oz tape   2", then 4", then 6" on primaries
the 17 oz Knytex biaxial hull to hull over the stringer. (2x ?)

bed secondaries, and simply tape once using 4"

Alright, alright. I took out the rudder port entirely. It was half gone anyway.
We got all four stringers cut out, shaped, notched, and ready to dry fit tomorrow. My brother used an electric planar with an angle guide to shape the bottoms of the stringers. That took less time cutting the boards to height with a jigsaw.
We have the hull litfed and level. We are going to set the old stringers in to confirm measurements. Dry fit stringers, and then start CPESing them. Hope to have the two primaries bedded by the end of the week, because I am going out of town. Not sure if we will be able to do that or not...
One unfortunate observation I made was while cleaning the last bits of foam out around the exhaust I noticed a cavernous void on the inside glass lip of the starboard exhaust thru-hull. The wood is wasted to mush. All the way aruond the pipe. It is done for. I assume the other side is as well. Both will be coming out tomorrow as there is no way around this. I am still resisting the main transom board but will try to do a couple test holes tomorrow. If it is bad, it is coming out.