96SNOB Steering

Storm,
   I am coming in a bit late on the thread. Did you tie a small rope to the old cable before removing it? For me, this job is a much easier with two people. One lying under the dash feeding the cable and the other one tugging the line. If you didnt run a rope, then you may want to try and feed a small wire back thru the boat with a line attached. I have never done a cable without a rope to pull it thru. But, I have only done about four or five, all the same way, so there may be an easier way. Best of luck.

Chris did you burn up all of Pete's cell phone minutes?

Waldo

On the SNOB, I think there are two different passage ways. One for the blower and one for the wiring. I would be surprised if they open up to each other once under the airbox since that would mean the wires are susceptible to getting wet? I'll check it out tho..

I'm going to be in Chicago all week so hopefully I can get to it friday afternoon/evening and ski all weekend!!!

Storm, as I recall the two holes are connected and removing the vent will allow you to get your hand in there to guide the cable thru the wires.

I just replaced the steering cable on a 98 Sport over lunch. I believe the hole you are talking about was in the part facing out towards the driver's feet. It was already there in this boat. The process was complicated a lot by the two heater hoses in there. These obstructed the channel to such a degree that I do not see how you could possibly replace the cable with them there. Especially with no additional hole. The PO cut them off far too short to re-attach to the motor so they had to come out either way. They were actually zip tied about a third of the way down the channel to another cable. Total nightmare getting them out. once they were out there was plenty of room to slip the new cable back through to the channel. We did use a chase, but likely would not have needed it. Took about 2 hours, a lot of which was fighting the old heater hoses.
I am going to have to do the cable on my SAN this year yet. I expect less problems as it just runs down into the ski locker, unlike the Sport.

Thanks for chiming in guys. Mike, I took the blower hose off the air box and found it extremely easy to feed the cable through. I figured they would be separate since there's a chance for water to enter. Anyway, I got everything connected and ran the boat this afternoon. Steering was a breeze but I've still got some rudder tweaks to before it's ready to stay on the lift.

If your alignment is fine and doesnt solve the vibration, get a CNC prop. Smooth as glass. I am running a 470 three blade Acme in my 95SNOB and it works great. A buddy of mine recently bought a 2006 SN and it overreved and shook like a teenage cheerleader, we put my prop on it and it was amazing how good it ran.

Mike....have you tried reaching through the airbox?

I wouldnt take too much out of comparing two used props. I have run three and four blade props that are perfectly smooth. The decision should be based on performance. I wouldnt consider any prop that wasnt CNC'd. Figure out what prop works for the way you use your boat, and buy a new prop, properly install it (after checking shaft alignment and bushings) and enjoy it! You may want to go to Acme's website and read about props. The last time I checked they had some good information.