Jeffs 1988 BFN Rebuild

8122pbrainard wrote: dochockey wrote: Where did you get your D-Fir? Kirk Kirt, If all else fails, try LL Johnson in Charlotte Mi.. They have the timbers and will resaw/surface plane for you.

Yes Johnsons work bench.They had 2"x6" 20'.But I was able to get both my stringers out of 1 board plus my center/keel stringer.
$165.00 if I rember correctly that was over the holidays.Plus they have marine plywood ect.
Jeff
They will deliver to Grand Rapids for $20.00

dochockey wrote: I'm familiar with L.L. They had a Grand Rapids store but it closed last summer. If your into woodworking your like a kid in a candy store there. I know they are top dollar, That's why I was wondering if you had another source?

The store closed but they still deliver to G.R. I think its Wood Source?east end of 28th Streetbetween East Paris and Patterson .The price I felt was far clear,tight no knots.

tullfooter wrote: Doc Where in Michigan do you reside? Sounds like you are near GRap. Jeff Did not notice that in the pic on FB, you WERE working on your boat. Good man.

Yup its at the top of the list.

I want to fair out my bilge do I have to grind every last bit of gelcote or will the epoxy go over the top.


And any sugestions on my screw up

It is a about a 4" crack including the hole.

I was gong to do a lay up on the inside then v/tapper out the outside build it up and glass.Is there any reason not to start on the inside first?

Jeff,
You have the correct idea on the goofup. Yes, lay in the glass on the inside and gel fill the outside after Ving it out. This is the only place I recommend using polyester resin.

Looking at the pictures, it does look like you've ground down the bilge coating enough. You just do not want to bond the new to the gel bilge coating and be as close to the glass in the hull as possible. The glass is the strength in a FRP and the resin is pretty much just the "glue".

I also found screw holes were the PO was re mounting a seat base and ran them out the bottom . They fixde with caulk

BFNSport wrote: I also found screw holes were the PO was re mounting a seat base and ran them out the bottom . They fixde with caulk

That's not as bad as the member several years ago who wanted to add drain holes in his battery box. He didn't realize the bottom of the box was actually the hull. He did find out after he drilled his first hole!

A few more questions.My boat was over 50% gutted when I started and Im not sure what the floor was like.I just read the pumpkinpatch again and it sounds like 3/4 ply I like how Gregs turned out ,was that a factory reproduction or was all the ply of Gregs design? I did cut out under the dash forward and don t recall any ply floor.
Jeff

Jeff, when you go to repairing the goof cut your repair plys in rounded rectangles or circles making sure each ply has about 1/2" overlap over the prior one. Make the first ply slightly larger than the damage. Lay the smallest down first when you are ready to install it and work your way up to the largest ply.

If you have corners in your plies they will have more of a tendancy to lift up and secondly more stress is concentrated on corners. Rounding your repairs distributes load stresses more evenly and they lay down nicely. Making each ply bigger than the other makes for a stronger repair as you have 3 layers of glass bonded to the hull instead of just "one" thick one.

Luv that stand, but this concerns me a little...

BFNSport wrote: I was able to get both my stringers out of 1 board

BuffaloBFN wrote: Luv that stand, but this concerns me a little... BFNSport wrote: I was able to get both my stringers out of 1 board

Whys that Greg the ?..stand.I have a rachet strap going all the way around the transom.

Did you get my e-mail in regards to contact info.
Jeff

BuffaloBFN wrote: I really like the stand/cradle. My concern is that you got 2 mains out of 1 2x6. No, I didn't get the contact info. I'll look for it if you re-send. Sorry I missed it.

What would be the problm It was over sized laid the old stringers on the plank traced them out and cut.It was 18-20'long I think

We removed all glass that was used to attach the original stringers. That was no small task. Lots of work with the grinder, as well as flat bars to get it to peel up. In a few sections, more came up than we intended- we got hull glass up unintentionally. Might have been poor lamination or overzealous desctruction... or maybe a bit of both. We were sure to replace the hull glass in these sections (and then some).

Stringers out, but glass still in:



All stringer glass out:



You can see where we took too much glass off in the foreground of the last picture, just to the right of the keel.

Id say youre into the hull glass now. If its coming up easy, then take it off and be sure to replace it. If you can get to a spot where it comes off pretty hard, then grind the transition smooth and leave it.

Jeff,
You said the wood around the exhaust was OK but soft. I wouldn't take the chance on it and suggest you put new in. You're way into the hull anyway!!

I agree with Tim and it does look like you have some delam in the hull. Just as he mentioned, get the loose stuff up and replace it.

Tim, Pete
What if any precautions did you take with the bottom of your hull while working on it? In your picture it looks close to the current state that mine is in. Is the 3 point stand still a viable solution when the hull is getting this “thin” it is very loose/flexible if that make any sense. I will be adding 2 more supports to the front under the windshield chine area, similar idea to what Greg did when he left it on the trailer.