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vondy
Platinum Member Joined: November-29-2007 Location: Dallas, Texas Status: Offline Points: 1116 |
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I was wondering the same. What if I messed up the installation... don't know how. Used the right gasket, permatex high temp, torqued the bolts to spec in the correct order. One problem I was having before the "incident" was when I would gun it from a standstill, there was an intimidate pause. Then it would kick right in. Once it kicked in it was great, but there was always a half second pause. I figured it was a timing or carb issue and never got a chance to figure it out before the freeze plug blew out. |
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8122pbrainard
Grand Poobah Joined: September-14-2006 Location: Three Lakes Wi. Status: Offline Points: 41045 |
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David,
Now that I see the oil, Something major happened. That much water did not get in there from being injested down the intake. You said the rubber plug came from the aft starboard side correct? The starboard block drain is up front and I'm thinking there was some water left in the block. Did you lower the jack stand on the trailer when drining that side? Did you antifreeze the engine? Did you probe the drain holes for sediment? |
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eric lavine
Grand Poobah Joined: August-13-2006 Location: United States Status: Offline Points: 13413 |
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Im with Pete. I really do have a 55 gallon drum filled with the a creamy milkshake. doesnt look good. someone put that expansion rubber plug in there for a reason, back up and think about it
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"the things you own will start to own you"
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Gary S
Grand Poobah Joined: November-30-2006 Location: Illinois Status: Offline Points: 14096 |
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I agree guy's but he did run it for a season with that plug.
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79nautique
Grand Poobah Joined: January-27-2004 Location: United States Status: Offline Points: 7872 |
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depending on how much water got in the bilge and depending on the condition of the seal, it did sit with the water level high while getting the tow vehicle it's possible, as well has getting it too hot creating a problem that wasn't there before.
First course of action needs to be getting fresh oil back in and the motor heated up and dried out internally. If the milk returns then it has to come apart, we can all guess about the condition of the block but until it's fired with fresh oil it's all speculation and guessing. |
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vondy
Platinum Member Joined: November-29-2007 Location: Dallas, Texas Status: Offline Points: 1116 |
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That plug has been in the boat since I got it. In 2008. So it ran just fine for 2 seasons. And it ran fine in the driveway this year, if that really means anything not having any load on it.
The first signs of water in the oil was after the plug came out. It's possible it happened as soon as we got her on the water, I just didn't check it until after we got back. How low of temperature does it take to freeze a block? The boat was stored covered, with the engine box in place. We had a pretty cold winter here. I drained the block as my boat sits, which is pretty level. I might have lowered it to make sure the water exited the bilge but I don't remember for sure. No antifreeze. Should I continue and flush the oil? |
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vondy
Platinum Member Joined: November-29-2007 Location: Dallas, Texas Status: Offline Points: 1116 |
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OK there's my answer to that. I'll put some fresh oil in after work and get her going. Thanks guys! |
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dchris17
Gold Member Joined: May-28-2005 Location: Weatherford, TX Status: Offline Points: 573 |
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Oddly enough, I had a similar experience this year with the same crappy rubber plug in my Mustang 17.
I replaced it with a proper freeze plug and everything seems fine now, but it was scary when it came out cuz I thought I had sunk the boat (I was at least 5 miles from my trailer when it happened). In the end, it made for a good swim towing the boat (1/4 mile) and cost about $5 to fix. |
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SN206
Grand Poobah Joined: February-25-2009 Location: Fort Worth, TX Status: Offline Points: 2339 |
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David, I've been following this post and it's been breaking my heart. The "red boat" was one of my favorites last year. I live over by Texas Motor Speedway and if there is aanything I can do it help, just let me know and I'll shoot over.
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...those who have fallen and those who will.
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vondy
Platinum Member Joined: November-29-2007 Location: Dallas, Texas Status: Offline Points: 1116 |
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Thanks Ryan, I appreciate your concern. You mentioned a couple of guys early in the post. Are they some of your buddies at Buxton? Or is that the guys from the forum?
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SN206
Grand Poobah Joined: February-25-2009 Location: Fort Worth, TX Status: Offline Points: 2339 |
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Greg is Buxton's lead mechanic, he also builds motors on the side. He's a wrench guy and could likely help. Jim (Buxton) retired and no longer works uo there but he may know where an old block is if it's a worse case scenerio.
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...those who have fallen and those who will.
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vondy
Platinum Member Joined: November-29-2007 Location: Dallas, Texas Status: Offline Points: 1116 |
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Sweet, that was my going to be my next question if this turned out worst case, who locally can work on the motor. Hopefully it won't come to that but good to know in case. Great help as always! |
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vondy
Platinum Member Joined: November-29-2007 Location: Dallas, Texas Status: Offline Points: 1116 |
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So i have her running with fresh oil. I hope shes ok cus she sounds really good. Not sure if she will get up to temp in the yard, been going around 15 minutes and still just above 120.
Checked the stick and there was a small bit of white. Figured it would take at least two flushes to get all out. Thoughts? |
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Luchog
Grand Poobah Joined: April-17-2007 Location: Argentina Status: Offline Points: 2135 |
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Did you drain he oil filter too??
If the oil gets warm enough water will evaporate through the valve cover vents. Keep it running until it reaches operating temp. |
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SN206
Grand Poobah Joined: February-25-2009 Location: Fort Worth, TX Status: Offline Points: 2339 |
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My fingers are crossed!
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...those who have fallen and those who will.
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vondy
Platinum Member Joined: November-29-2007 Location: Dallas, Texas Status: Offline Points: 1116 |
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No i was just about to mention that. I have a new one and was going to change on a second flush. What rpm should i hold her at.
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vondy
Platinum Member Joined: November-29-2007 Location: Dallas, Texas Status: Offline Points: 1116 |
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Seem to be getting a knock when i go to restart. Goes away after she cranks. Could it have anything to do with the different oil, or is it a bad sign?
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Luchog
Grand Poobah Joined: April-17-2007 Location: Argentina Status: Offline Points: 2135 |
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recheck the spark plugs, crank the engine without them and watch for any water coming out the cylinders, usually the ones on the back of the engine.
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vondy
Platinum Member Joined: November-29-2007 Location: Dallas, Texas Status: Offline Points: 1116 |
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Well it was worth a try, Luchog your right. Water blasting out of number 4.
So where does that leave me? Blown head gasket most probably? Intake, I keep hoping? Number 4 is right next to the water passage that dead ends into the side of the head. Whatever it is, I'll have a ton of questions that's for sure. Right now I am letting next 5 gallon milkshake drain. Thanks again! |
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Luchog
Grand Poobah Joined: April-17-2007 Location: Argentina Status: Offline Points: 2135 |
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WAIT!!!!
Take the plug out, give it a few more cranks, inspect with a light inside the plug hole, if water's dripping from above, it could be a crack on the head. What you want to do next it take out the exhaust manifold (watch number 4 runner for water signs) and have it water pressure tested, then you pull the intake and see if any water got over the gasket, then you pull the head and have it tested too, inspect the gasket and mating surfaces for water paths. After you pull the head turn the engine until piston 4 gets bdc and inspect the cylinder for cracks/water lines. I had a head cracked above the valve seat, cylinder had good compression but water and oil mixed, and cylinder filled with water after shut down. If all tests OK then you are looking for a new block., so hope something's wrong!!!! |
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SN206
Grand Poobah Joined: February-25-2009 Location: Fort Worth, TX Status: Offline Points: 2339 |
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...those who have fallen and those who will.
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Luchog
Grand Poobah Joined: April-17-2007 Location: Argentina Status: Offline Points: 2135 |
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There's a good chance you already had some litte water coming in the cylinder, but when you hammered it, the cylinder compressed, keeping the water out and the plug dry, therefore igniting. Was it hard to re-start after shutdown? Did the starter turn slowly at first or felt like kicking and then gained speed? Wasnt this the reason you switched to a 4bbl??? A thin crack on a head could be it, which worsened after your last wot run. That would explain both the water in the oil and the water inside the cylinder. A hole in the exhaust manifold jacket would lead water inside the cylinder too, but not that much through the rings to mess the oil. So you could have a cracked head alone, or a head/exhaust combo. if not the intake gasket wich would be the most optimistical option being a cylinder sleeve a very bad one, and a block galley the worst one. |
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vondy
Platinum Member Joined: November-29-2007 Location: Dallas, Texas Status: Offline Points: 1116 |
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I checked the plug hole and don't see any water dripping. On the compression the cylinder was filled with water up to the hole. I can pull the intake next and inspect.
Is there anything I can do in the mean time to help prevent any damage? Obviously everything is coated with wet oil. There was a point in our trip out this weekend where it took a bit to get her started after sitting. But I doubt it was happening last year cus there was never any water in the oil until this weekend. I'm wondering at what point do I haul it to a pro and have them figure it out. Any ideas on what it would cost me to get back on the water? If it's the intake manifold $30 - $200. Other than that, I don't know. My understanding is that the head gasket involves machining. No idea what a new block would cost. I assume it's an entire rebuild at that point. Ryan, might be calling one of your buddies after a little more inspection. |
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SN206
Grand Poobah Joined: February-25-2009 Location: Fort Worth, TX Status: Offline Points: 2339 |
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David, I sent Greg an email with brief details and said you might be contacting him
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...those who have fallen and those who will.
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Luchog
Grand Poobah Joined: April-17-2007 Location: Argentina Status: Offline Points: 2135 |
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Unless your rings are REALLY worn, water wont get through them to the oil pan. Water is mixing with oil elsewhere. Water inside the cylinder and water in the oil could be 2 faces of the same coin (Cracked cylinder head or block) but they could be 2 different things also. you assumed you had a flooding carb when you probably already had water inside the cylinder and the guys discussed carbs and intakes for 4-5 pages, then you assumed your plugs were good without checking the cylinders and some more pages rolled in. Now re-read my last 2 post and please ask any questions, I believe it's pretty much covered there, but please stop making assumptions based on hunchs because they are costing you money and wont lead you to any solutions in the short range. What you take post something as a statement, other guys assume you know what you are talking about. Sorry if I sounded harsh, we need to work on facts, take many pictures while you take it apart. |
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Luchog
Grand Poobah Joined: April-17-2007 Location: Argentina Status: Offline Points: 2135 |
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Drain all water from the block there is one draining plug on eah side of the block. Now if you already drained the oil you wont be able to crank the water inside the cylinder out through the plug hole, so you'll soak it up once you tear into the head. do you have any spare time today??? IT'S WRENCHING TIME!!! |
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79nautique
Grand Poobah Joined: January-27-2004 Location: United States Status: Offline Points: 7872 |
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ok lets back up a second before things get torn apart. The possibility exists that the water in 4 four came from another source besides a cracked head, faulty intake gasket, or a blown head gasket. Yes they are all valid points, But since he didn't see any new water after it was blown out, and if it was leaking from a gasket or crack then there would have been much more water.
I suggest draining the oil again and installing the new filter, fire it back up again and double checking everything a second time. If water shows up again and again there is water in number 4 cyclinder, then pull the intake and have a professional install it, easy thing to mess up, the intake has to go straight down, you can't slide it into place and not have a problem. So drain and refill and see if you get the same results a second time if so then it'll be time to get the wrenches out and remove the exhaust manifold and have it pressure tested, if that is good then the intake needs to come off and inspect the area around the water jacket port. You did put a nice bead of RTV around the port with no gaps and on both sides of the gasket when you installed it didn't you? |
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Luchog
Grand Poobah Joined: April-17-2007 Location: Argentina Status: Offline Points: 2135 |
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sorry but I missed when he stated that???? Anyway we agree the intake and exhaust manifold need to come out. Vondy did you crank until there wasnt any water coming out of number 4?? if so, did you crank it again after a while and more water came out? |
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vondy
Platinum Member Joined: November-29-2007 Location: Dallas, Texas Status: Offline Points: 1116 |
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Yes after a while I went back and turned the engine over, I did not start it, and there was water in number 4. Clear water, lots of it. |
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vondy
Platinum Member Joined: November-29-2007 Location: Dallas, Texas Status: Offline Points: 1116 |
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I followed all directions and aligned the intake straight down using the cut off head bolt trick Gary recommended. The instructions said to put a thin bead of RTV around the water port. That's what I did. Your also supposed to keep the RTV away from the intake port and that's pretty tough being that that port is right up against the water port. So I kept it thin. I set the intake down on the fresh RTV and just barely tighten the bolts. Then waited an hour, like the instructions said, then torqued to 28-32 lbs. Being that the intake is the easiest to remove, and cheapest fix if the problem, should I remove it first? It's got to come off anyway if the problem is deeper. Other than the manifold I guess. And of course I don't have any spare time right now. Not even going to be in town this weekend. Isn't that always the case? So I can only do anything after work. |
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